How do I go about doing the electrical connections for a radio?

It is important to follow the wiring recommendations supplied with the radio.

The illumination is usually connected internally so the screen lights when the radio is switched on but as the wire is available, where it is connected depends on whether the display can be seen without the illumination and whether the radio is activated by the ignition key or supplied direct from the battery.
If the radio has an output for an electric aerial or aerial amplifier, it would be as well to connect the illumination to this or otherwise connect it to position 1 of the ignition switch.

The dimmer wire is connected to the dashboard illumination lights...

If the wire is firmly attached wherever it is attached, and properly insulated (i.e. "electrical tape" etc). Then that is not the problem. If the radio is turning _off_ when you hit a bump. (meaning it was "on" and then "bumps" make it go off and on again), then either the radio is loose and needs to be tightened, and/or the ground wire connected _to_ the radio's "metal" is loose; (usually a wire connected to a bolt in the rear of the radio). When I say the radio may be loose and needs to be tightened, I am _also_ saying the radio may be getting it's electrical "ground" just by being bolted onto the car (if the area where the nuts are attaching the radio to the car is made of metal and not just all plastic). // Ok... First, make sure that wire under the dash is a good solid connection and _then_ make sure it is insulated (such as with electrical tape). Then you need to find out if a "ground wire" is going to the back or sides of the metal part of the radio, or if the "ground" is being made where the radio bolts to the car (which would be the case if that area is all metal and not plastic). BTW... That wire that is connected under the dash is connected to "positive". As long as it is a good tight connection, and safely taped or otherwise protected, it is fine and can stay that way. Tighten up the radio's bolts and look to see if there is a wire going to the back metal body of the radio. Make sure it is a good connection. Finally, if the radio is tight, but there is no separate wire going to "ground," and the problem continues... Then the solution is simple. Just add a "ground wire." Run a wire from _any_ area of the dashboard that is _solid_ metal and there is a screw/bolt you can attach the wire to (such as a metal support bracket bolted to the metal dashboard), and then connect that wire to _anywhere_ on the metal of the radio where you can make a solid connection. (There is usually a bolt in the back of the radio that is meant to be used to mount a bracket to make the radio "firm." (so that it _doesn't_ "bounce" around). Anyway, you can attach the wire there if you have a nut that fits the bolt. If not, then simply loosen _any_ screw in the metal area of the radio, and slip the wire under the screw, then tighten the screw with the wire firmly under it. That will give you a "permanent ground," and the bumps won't cause you to "lose ground" anymore when the radio shakes; which it wouldn't do if there was a proper support bracket added to that bolt in the back of the radio. (I've tried to explain this as simply and clear as possible, which is why it is so long, with some "repeating myself". If you can follow this, it _will_ solve your problem). Best of luck... --Gregg

try it on with the sound very low. If it causes no problems that way I would guess it is the output circuitry.
HOWEVER, for that to affect the electrical system without blowing the fuse someone must have put a penny in the fuseholder.

The stock radio has two electrical plugs and the anneena wire plugs in and theirs a grond wire that goes on the back of the unit with a bolted connection. If you have an aftermarket radio you can get universal connectors at major dept stores that fit your car ( or auto parts stores) These connectors plug into the cars wire harness and the wires are labled to what they do and just connect the wires as marked on the sticker on the radio. If the radio is a factory radio that did'nt come in an Isuzu their commonly not marked and the wire pattern in the back of the radio has to be figured out.

1. Remove the Instrument Panel (IP) bezel.
2. Remove the radio.
3. Remove the heater control assembly by firmly depressing and holding the retaining tabs. Slide the assembly forward.

1. Disconnect the temperature and the mode cables from the back of the control assembly.
2. Disconnect the electrical connection from the control assembly.
3. Remove the control assembly.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

1. Connect the electrical connection to the control assembly.
2. Connect the temperature and the mode cables to the back of the control assembly.

1. Install the control assembly to the IP carrier until you hear an audible snap.
2. Install the radio.
3. Install the IP bezel.

Radio Reciever/Amplifier/Tape Player/CD Player REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Remove the bezel retaining fasteners and the bezel . . .

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the center cluster screws and bezel.
3. Remove the radio attaching screws.
4. Disconnect the radio from the instrument panel wiring harness and antenna.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Fig. 2: . . . then remove the radio retaining fasteners
   Fig. 3: Slide the radio forward so that you may gain access to the electrical connections
   Fig. 4: Disengage the antenna and radio electrical connections
   

Removal & Installation You will need radio removing tool T87P-19061-A or its equivalent to perform this procedure.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Place the temperature control switch to the COLD position.
   
3. Unlock the temperature cable by pulling down on the tab.
   
4. Disconnect the cable while holding the tab down.
   
5. Using the radio removal tool, pull the integrated control panel from the instrument panel.
   
6. Unplug the vacuum harness, antenna lead and the electrical connections from the rear of the control panel.
   
7. Remove the control panel.
   

To install:

1. Attach the vacuum harness, antenna lead and the electrical connections to the rear of the control panel.
   
2. Install the control panel into the instrument panel.
   
3. Connect the temperature control cable.
   
4. Connect the negative battery cable
   

RE: Radio

If you mean the radio doesnt retain the memory presets and clock when you shut the car off or turn the key to the 0 position

that could mean that the yellow wire was not connected to the red or hot/positive lead when the radio wiring harness was connect

if this worked before and now it does check the main fuse box
also some radios have a inline fuse connected on the radio wiring harness (behind radio so you'll have to remove it to check, same thing with checking that the yellow wier is connected)

not sure what you mean by "electrical problem headlights"
some cars shut off the electrical current to the head lights (only power to running/park lights) when the ignition is shut off or the key is at position 0

hi,maybe have a bad electrical connection on radio ;loose contact on fuse,ty

There are 3 fuses in the interior fuse panel that feeds radio.
no. 11(10amp) is ignition switch power to the radio it comes into radio on the TN/LB wire.
no. 27 (10amp) is hot at all times and comes in on OG/LG wire.
no. 12 (5amp) is hot in run or accessory and comes in on YE/BK wire.
Check these with 12V test light at fuse and at radio connector.