At 35,000 miles RR caliper stuck. Had it fixed. 1 1/2 yrs later (50000 mi) starting hearing a grinding noise in rear brakes. Took it in to get pads replaced. Was told discs, pads all 4 shot. Service tech asked "does this car sit a lot" because everything was so badly rusted. !!!!!! We use it every day. $1000 later ALL pads/discs ect replaced.. Honda's got a problem and oddly it seems it starts w/ the right rear brake... Seems Honda wasn't designed for salt/snow in quantity. Quite annoying 2003 Element.
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Re: Right rear pad and worse
The problem described here indicates that you may have the AWD (full time 4WD) drivetrain of the 2003 Element.
It is normal to have 1 side of the vehicle to have increased wear due to the transmission differential, that allows your vehicle's wheels to move at different speeds from the others (turning, inclines, etc.)
Your brake pads really need constant inspection and possible replacement (approx 5,000 miles) with everyday driving, and is really a consumable item like your fuel.
You will find that it is much cheaper to replace the brake pad/lining of your disc brakes than grinding down the supposedly shiny discs that slow down your vehicle.
RE: salt/snow, you can improve your discs' longevity by rinsing them out with warm water after being driven in extreme conditions.
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this is a hand on fix
no web bunny on earth can do this. why ask>?
and if i do, it delays the fix. and possible danger that...
no you can not hope, only FATE rules earth and entropy.
take the car to service and find the cause.
it can be bad caliper or pads, or stuck slider in caliper
or a 2x4 hit the brake backing plate, a 5min fix.
why guess, and worse why drive a dangerous car.
ID assume the worse, its brakes or the suspension i bad.
all very dangerous.
get it inspected by live living humans.
This is one of them questions and need i say more ,as without looking myself and having a drive then i could tell you straight away iam sure ,because without hearing the noise i cannot even summise where or what it is because a grinding noise is -well -difficult to denominate exacty what one defines as a grinding noise ,myself i would define it as a rythmic noise with the road speed but someone else would call it that noise for a trailing arm bush loose or worn but one thing to check is are the pads hitting a part of the brake disk thats corroded like on the edge of the brake disk ,sorry to be absolutely no help at all but i hope you appreciate how difficult it is to diagnose something with hearing it and from afar ,but if you only hear the noise when on a rough road could it be the tyres like a deformed tyre or them town and country tyres with big chunky treads .
Hello tgiro7: My name is Roger and I will help with your question. The fact the noise goes away when stepping on the brake pedal says the problem most likely is in the brake area. The pads could be worn out even at 20,000 miles.If the noise sounds like it comes from the front remove the wheels and check the front pads. If the pads are bad most likely the rotors are also bad.Same would apply if the noise emits from the rear. When you have the wheels off check to make sure the calipers will slide in and out on the mount pins. Should they be stuck on binding the pads will wear excessively and prematurely fail. The calipers must move freely on the pins. If you drive with your left foot on the brake pedal? The amount of pressure required to apply the brakes and not stop the vehicle is 1 to 2 pounds of pressure. Wont turn on the brake lights but will put pressure on the calipers. This in turn will wear out the brake pads. Another thing to look at would be an out of adjustment brake switch. Reach down and grab hold of the brake pedal. Give a firm tug on the pedal. Should you feel the pedal give and hear a click or two the switch was set to deep and holding the brakes on.
Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger
my first suggestion would be to take it apart and re-inspect everything. double check that you have it put together right. when you install brakes you should be able to turn the rotor and hear if something is rubbing. if all is on right then you may have a caliper that is hanging up and engaging the brakes all the time.
I have the same problem with my 2008 Hummer H3. I had the front and rear rotors resurfaced. I am now thinking of getting the rotors replaced with bigger more durable rotors. Solution about the sticking brake caliper sounds about right if you hear a grinding noise as you drive without even touching the brake pedal.
It sounds like the rear calipers are bad. Raise the rear wheels and see if you can turn the tires. If you can't, open the bleeder. If you still can't replace the caliper. If you can turn the wheel after you open the bleeder, replace the brake hose to that wheel.
Suterman, RE: infamous GM right rear brake pad problem. A rapid inside RR brake pad wear problem is common on most GMC and Chevy trucks made from ?99 to ?04. The right rear brake caliper and pads are located in such a manner that road dirt/mud flies straight into them. This steady diet of grit causes the caliper to seize and the inside brake pad to wear out rapidly, causing the "squealing" or "grinding" noise often reported.
GM has had a problem with the rear brakes on their light duty trucks. There is a fix. The ALLDATA Information System shows GM Technical Service Bulletin # 00-05-23-005B, which they simply describe is a mud flap kit. This kit addresses the rapid brake pad wear problem. The GM mud flap kit is installed to block bombardment of road dirt and debris that is the cause of this very common problem. The GM kit part number is 15765007 and is pretty easy to install. I would suggest installing the mud flap kit before your next brake job.
I had the same problem with mine at about 20000 miles,took it to dealer and they told me it was a common problem for the mounting bushing for the caliper to go bad.Dealer replaced them and less than 5000 miles later had same problem,they ordered new brackets with new bushings to mount calipers and have had no problems since at 41000 and still have original pads and rotors have not been turned. Don't know if they will do anything after warrantee but mounting bushings are easy to replace and not expensive.