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Re: I can't get the starter out of my yukon 2001 "there...
Park your car in a safe place with a level surface. Turn off the ignition switch, all electrical accessories and open the hood. Disconnect the black negative battery cable. Remove the mounting bolt from the engine oil dipstick tube, using a wrench or ratchet and socket. Move the tube to the side. Raise the front of the vehicle, using a floor jack and safely support it on two jack stands. Remove any under-engine cover shields, if your model is equipped with them. Remove the mounting bolts from the transmission plastic cover and remove the cover. If your model is equipped with a starter-to-transmission cover, remove the bolt. If there are any sensor electrical connections that might interfere with the starter removal, unplug them now. On some models, you might have to disconnect the engine oil level sensor. Remove the nut from the front axle mounting bracket through-bolt using a wrench or ratchet and socket, if you have a 4WD model; then pull out the through bolt until the tip is flush with the support bushing, but do not remove the bolt. Remove the two starter mounting bolts using a ratchet and socket. On some models, the starter is mounted with a short and a long bolt; make a note of the bolts' locations. Pull the starter forward until the motor clears the transmission and remove the starter-to-transmission cover. Disconnect the battery cable and wiring harness from the starter solenoid on top of the starter, and remove the starter from the vehicle. To install: Set the new starter in place and connect the battery cable and wiring harness to the starter solenoid. Set the starter-to-transmission cover in place and install the starter mounting bolts. Seat the front axle mounting bracket through-bolt back in position and tighten the nut. Plug any sensor connectors you might have disconnected previously. Install the starter-to-transmission cover bolt and any other protective shields or covers previously removed. Lower the vehicle. Install the bolt to the engine oil dipstick tube and connect the black negative battery cable. Hope this makes some sense, harder to explain the show. Good luck friend and be safe.
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I just changed my oil pan gasket on my 2001 GMC Yukon Denali. Once all bolts are off the oil pan, the pan and off the block it has no clearance because the differential is in the way. I removed half the diffential since the housing is split in the center. You will see bolts on the differential housing, remove those. But before the diff can come out to make room for the pan to drop you have to remove the axel attached to the diff on the passenger side. Once the axel is off the diff you have room to remove half the diff. Make sure to drain the gear oil first. It take a bit off pulling and wiggling but it will come off. Once that's clear the oil pan is completely free to come out. Hope this helps.
You didn't say if you unbolted the 2 bolts that hold the starter on (Disconnect the neg. battery post before you start). The dipstick has to come also, there is a bolt holding the dipstick to the head on the engine, take it off and pull the dipstick towards up. The starter goes out towards the front of the engine to clear the bellhousing. I hope this helps.
Changing the oil pan gasket on a GMC Yukon XL is realtively simple, but does require removal of the exhaust pipe. You will need a new oil pan gasket and a new exhaust pipe flange gasket. Put the car on ramps or jacks to access the undercarriage. Remove the exhaust pipe by removing the 3 nuts holding the exhaust pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. These nuts often rust and prior application of penetrating oil may be required to remove them without damage. Once the pipe is unbolted, work the exhaust system loose from the hanging brackets. In most cases the entire system does not have to be removed since there is enough room to remove the pan with only the front hangers removed. Drain the oil from the engine Remove the 10 mm bolts holding the pan to the block. Remove the old gasket material and scrape any remaining gasket from the block and pan. Install the new gasket. Forma-Gasket or a similar product may be used in small quantities to "glue" the new gasket in place and prevent shifting while the pan is reattached to the block. Reinsall the 10 mm bolts in a cross pattern to ensure the gasket is compressed evenly. Do not overtighten the bolts. Replace the pipe to flange gasket between the exhaust pipe and the exhaust manifold with a new part. Reattach the exhuast pipe to the hangers. Install the 3 bolts connecting the pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. Fill the engine with oil.
Try an open-ended wrench (on my 2001 Yukon XL on the rear, it was a 5/8") that is just inside the bolt head (bolt retainer) on the caliper -both top and bottom bolt. If you have that same config, the bolt retainer is just spinning when you are turning the bolt head. The wrench will allow you to put leverage on the retainer, and the bolt will come out quickly, as it is a short bolt.
First, disconnect battery, than remove cables from starter (you may want to make mark so you don't get them mixed up when reinstalling, Than Remove the two bolts holding starter. Now you can pull out from top by exhaust manifold or if you have room to move through crossmember
there is a tensioner that keeps the belt tight, when you turn the tensioner bolt it will sink down and release and give slack. you have to hold the wrench down while pulling the belt off. when installing the new belt you will also have to hold the wrench down. it's not an easy bolt to turn and hold down, must be simi-strong