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Where to start. . . . A defective hose would only affect that wheel. A faulty booster or master cylinder could cause the front wheels to lock and at varied amounts. You may have a metering block or just a junction block for the front lines. It would be mounted near the frame if you have one. Some Ford models from 88 - 92 used a master cylinder with the metering valve built in. Its possible the front calipers got hot enough with the old pads to damage both front hoses. I would want to know what it takes to release the pressure on the pads. Do you have to take the hoses loose, or just the bleeder screws on the calipers ? Or are the calipers not sliding back and forth ?
If the caliper is seizing and it is not the caliper it is the module that controls how the brake fluid is distributed. I don't have my book in front of me at the moment but when you look under teh hood on teh drivers side you will see a block that has the brake lines coming out of it. That is part of teh ABS system is one is installed and is a master brake control hub if it ABS isn't installed. being that new I would assume it was equipped with ABS. There are a couple of ways you can test if this is teh problem. If I remember correctly the MPV brakes with all 4 brakes, that means you can, as a temp test, switch the lines to see if the caliper problem changes to the different caliper. If it does then you know for a fact it is that unit and not the caliper. Also, something to consider, the caliper that is locking maybe locking because the problem is actually the caliper on the opposite side. If the caliper on the left front is stuck in the open position, on occasion that will cause too much fluid pressure to the right front giving you the impression the problem is the right side and it isn't. This is rare but certainly a possibility. As a general rule you should always replace Calipers in pairs. If you replace the right front you should replace the left front, same with the rear calipers.
On older machines the metal brackets that hold on to the floating calipers will rust. The rust squeezes the calipers and keeps them from floating. When you apply the breaks the caliper moves toward the disc but does not move away from the disc. The extra friction causes the discs to over heat, the brake fluid to over heat, and the brake pads to burn. Remove the calipers and the thin metal plates they slide on . Clean the rust off down to the metal so the calipers will float properly. Replace the pads and discs if necessary and bleed the system to remove the overheated brake fluid. Rust never sleeps.
Do you live near the sea? Do you use the car to launch a boat ?. The third idea is, how often do you replace the brake fluid. I absorbs water very quickly and corrodes the alloy parts in the callipers. As you pump brakes, it pushes impurities out to the end of the lines. Fronts are closest then rears.
I have had exacly the same issue, the mechanic replaced the brake pads, calipers, hoses/brake lines, then after all that and it still happening, he replaced the brake master cylinder and all was well, except for my wallet !!!!