Battery runs down while 1986 mustang is setting
Here is how to detect a drain in system! Use a test light, Hook up test light to the negative terminal on battery. ( unhook terminal first.) connect opposite end of test light to negative on battery. If a drain, light will be on. Start pulling fuses from fuse box. when the test light goes out, that is the problem curcuit. let sit 3to5 minutes before pulling fuses. Good-Day!
SOURCE: something is running down my battery in my 1986 mustang
Disconnect the alternator harness. If the light goes out it's likely the alt has an internal short.
SOURCE: 2003 Ford Mustang GT Battery Light
Your alternator should power everything when engine is running. Battery is only for start up. Test voltage with a multimeter when engine is running , should be 14V or more . Any less indicates low alternator output.
SOURCE: 2006 ford mustang front right parking light stays
This is an interesting problem. I have an 08 Mustang Bullitt and if I had this problem with mine I would look at the headlamp switch first. It could be the electronic control box also. 2006 might still be under warranty if it is under 36,000 miles and was placed in service less than 36 months ago. If so take it to the dealer. Please post the results of what you have repaired.
SOURCE: new starter, alt, and battery but battery drains
maybe a short somewhere, try disconnecting battery when not running
Hello,
I am seeing a lot of mustangs are having battery draining issues and I wish to share some simple solutions found while working on a friends 03 GT 4.6ltr.
In a quiet area, key switched off, hood up, Listen carefully close to alternator. I heard a high pitched hissing/whistle sound at low volume, came from back of alternator. This sound was the voltage regulator/rectifier staying on when key is off due to faulty diodes inside the voltage regulator/rectifier circuit, can cause battery to go dead after car not ran in about 2-7 days.
After having the alternator tested free at a parts store, test showed alternator was good because the faulty diodes in the alternator did not show up on the test, the machine did not test for faulty drain back issues that were present.
Alternator on-car-fix:
There was battery voltage running at all times through the two-wire connector on back of alternator. Disconnect the battery first for safety and to reduce chance of short circuit. The yellow wire/with white stripe is hot while car is off so I traced this from the 2-wire connector on the alternator then closer towards driver side front fender. Next I cut the Yellow/White Stripe wire, spliced a good connection wire to it and ran it through a hole in the fire-wall to the fusebox(under dash), connected it to a 15a fuse that does not get used but has power when key is turned on but no power when key is off.
The purpose for re-routing the hot wire to the alternator, is to turn off the alternator charging circuit when the key is turned off so it may not run down the battery. I am seeing good results with this fix(or patch) so far. No More Parasitic Battery Drain!
Another fix can be to change the small pulley on the alternator to a larger pulley so the alternator does not spin too fast, putting too much energy through the diodes can cause a charging system to act a fool. So if you have charging issues and have an alternator changed, putting a larger pulley on can make sense turn into saved dollars(especially on high revving engines).
I hope this info helps to solve some draining battery and/or alternator issues.
for reading,
TyBorg1
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