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2000 Ford Taurus will not start

My problem is very similar. Replaced the battery 4 months ago and keep clamps tight and terminals free of corrosion. Most of the time it will start right up, but as of late it acts like it is not getting any juice. The instrument panel lights will sometimes blink or dim while turning the key to start. Sometimes the sylenoid will "click."
I have somewhat isolated it to a faulty ground. The negative battery cable gets very hot to the touch after repeated attempts to start and upon moving the cable around, while ignition is on the clicking noise is heard again. Tonight I will investigate further and let you know what I find.
Larry

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SOURCE: 98 ford explorer eddie bauer 4.0 v6 clicks while idling.

The first thing I would do is go to Autozone and have the engine codes read. All of the codes that have been triggered will still be stored in the computer. Is the AC on when you hear this clicking. I think it might just be the AC clutch making the noise. Try to narrow down the source of the noise, and it would not hurt to clean the battery cables. Test one thing at a time to avoid confusion. Let me know what you find out.

Posted on Sep 16, 2008

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SOURCE: 1995 ford f150 makes single loud click when trying to start

Does it make the loud click just once, or will it continue to click when you turn the key?
If it is just once, then there is still a bad connection someplace for the main power. If it continues to click every time you turn the key to "start", then it is probably the starter solenoid itself that is bad. There are two big terminals (bolts) on the solenoid, and if you connect a 12V test light or meter across them, you should see power there. If the light doesn't go out (or very dim) when you turn the ign. to 'start', then the solenoid is bad. If the light goes out and the starter doesn't turn, then there is something wrong with the starter. I suspect the solenoid also because it works better with a strong charge on the battery.

Posted on May 19, 2009

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SOURCE: 2000 Ford E350 Econoline, 5.4L. Won't start.

neutral safety switch also if the shifter handle is real loose the assm might be bad there known to break or the bushings to get warn out.

Posted on Oct 21, 2009

csmock132
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SOURCE: 95 F250 not starting

You said you tightened the battery cables, did you check the other end of the negative where it bolts to the engine. When you tightened the cables you also used a battery brush and cleaned the posts and ends?

Posted on Mar 27, 2010

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SOURCE: my ford f150 wont start, battery is good, have a

Battery cables, neutral safety switch, ignition switch

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

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My battery terminals keep snapping and I have replaced the postive twice already in two months. What could be causing them to snap in half? They are hard metal so I don't understand.


A poor connection to the battery can melt a cable. Make sure your battery terminal is clean and free from corrosion.Make sure that your battery lead has slack and that it is not taught, especially when the engine is revving.
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My 1996 ford taurus wont start i tried everything new battery new starter all it does is click what can it be?


follow the positive cable from battery, and you will find it ! did you change starter solinoid with the starter! the clicking and will not turn over is caused by battery, starter solinoid, or bad battery cable. The starter solenoid on many Ford vehicle's is on the inner fender well, The terminals should be free of corrosion and should tighten up well.
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Try cleaning and retightening the connections at your battery terminals. Corrosion will cause a bad connection, especially on the negative side. Also make sure the battery cable isn't corroded where it attatches to the clamp itself. Sometimes those will cause a weak connection....Mike

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From what I can determine, the battery cables are part of an engine sub harness. Cost of the part is in the $300 range. However, I suspect your real problem is the connectors on the cables which attach to the battery. They should be cleaned very well, free of all signs of corrosion and tightened securely. There is a common problem of the terminals corroding and cracking / breaking. They can be replaced easily and cheaply by cutting off the old terminal(s) , stripping back (or leaving exposed) about a 1/2" of wire. If wire has any corrosion, sand down to remove corrosion. The replacement terminals should be the clamp on type that you insert the wire into the clamp connection on back of new terminal and tighten it down securing the wires to the new terminal, then attaching them back to the battery. Cost around $10, buy some anti-corrosion spray for batteries also and spray them well after installation to battery to prevent this from happening again.
NOTE: Negative or black (if color coded) should come off first. Then remove positive (red) cable. Remove both cables from battery before performing repairs. Positive (red) cable goes back on first, negative cable (black) goes on last. This will prevent you from damaging your computer system and eliminate the chance of arcing (sparking) while effecting repairs.
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The following assumes you have a top-post battery rather than screw-in battery terminals on the side of the battery.

The battery may be new, but if excess side torque was applied to the battery post when the clamps were installed, the seal around the post may be cracked. Battery acid and fumes leaking through the crack (even if it is microscopic) cause corrosion between the post and connector. Try removing the battery cable clamps and cleaning them and the posts with a battery terminal cleaner brush. If you see corrosion (yellow or yellow-white crust) on the battery post, you have a cracked seal. Wipe everything around the post with a disposable rag, then coat the plastic around the post with petroleum jelly (but not the post. This will reduce the flow of corrosive chemicals onto the connection.

Another possibility is that the battery cable clamps were not thoroughly cleaned when the battery was replaced, and now the corrosion from the old battery is causing problems.

If you are removing or installing terminal clamps on a post-type battery, you must avoid putting a bending force on the post. That means when you turn the wrench or socket on the clamp bolt, you must hold the battery clamp with your free hand and use it to exert a force in the opposite direction from the wrench to keep the post from "bending." Failing to cancel the sideways torque on the post, as I mentioned above, will crack the seal around the post. Since I began observing this precaution, I have run batteries for a full lifetime without any terminal corrosion problems.

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Hey Mona, 1st thing u should check is the battery. Most auto parts stores offer a free check of your battery and your charging system. This will tell if the battery is bad, or if the system (alternator) isn't charging the battery. Yes, it could be a starter problem, but since yours is only 14 months old, it should be ok. Let me know what they say, I'll help some more if u need it. Also, how do the battery terminals look (where the cables clamp on to the battery)? Is there corrosion build up (powdery deposits) on the cables and battery terminals (where the cables clamp on the battery?) If there is, u may just have to remove the cables, clean them up w/ sandpaper, coat w/grease or vaseline to prevent future corrosion. It could be as simple as that to fix, so check this 1st.

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