Question about 1995 Subaru Impreza

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Loud clonking and jurking when turning sharp - 1995 Subaru Impreza

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It sounds like your CV joint is about to give out. Have it replace soon as possible before it brakes and your going to need it towed to a repair shop. Better to drive it to a repair shop before you have it towed there, best place to have the CV joint replaced is the transmission shop, better rates there and is alway's working on the CV joints to replace FWD transmissions. Good luck and keep me posted friend

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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I have a similar problem..when I turn it seems like the engine is loosing power...and it jerks..making it uncomfortable to drive....I also have a clonking sounds...

Any advise ?

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

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If the vehicle is AWD, my bet is that the transfer case is binding up. This would explain the jerking, especially at slow speeds with the wheel cut all the way to one side.

I agree with Harmongeer that the noise you describe is more in line with either this, or an engine mount. A worn CV (constant velocity) joint, probably on one of the front axles, might also make noise when shifting from reverse to forward or visa-versa.

If it is the transfer case, most dealers will tell you that the output shaft bushing is worn, and the case must be replaced. Before you do this, first try adding a special lubricant. If you have an automatic, the additive would go into the ATF, which also serves the transfer case.

The additive is designed to correct clutch plates, usually in posi-traction differentials, which is essentially what a transfer is. It sounds too easy, but it was exactly all that was needed to repair a fleet of Ford police cars I was maintaining way back in the 80's, and I never forgot.

The stuff I used came from NAPA Auto Parts, Item#:
BK 7652969, it is less than $10 for a 2 ounce tube. I experienced an immediate improvement, and added a second 2 oz tube about a month later. It has been good ever since.

Application:Eliminates Torque Converter Shudder Problems Instantly. Compatible w/ Conventional or Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluids.

At the same time, and for the same reason, try adding a larger tube of NAPA "Posi Bear Lube" to the front gear housing. If you have a manual transmission, this is the best you can do. If the transfer case uses the same gear oil, add it there as well, instead of the ATF additive.

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

  • CaptJon108 Jul 11, 2009

    I found the NAPA invoice from 11/06. The part number above is more correct as 765-2969. The BK comes under the next parts column titled "LN," probably for their inventory location. This product is called appropriately "Instant Shudder Fix."

    The other lubricant I mentioned for the gear housing, is called "Limited Slip Differential Additive." It's part number @ NAPA is 765-2597, also followed by a BK designation. Both of these serve the same function, but are formulated depending on weather you are adding it to gear oil, or Automatic Transmission Fluid. If you don't have a NAPA store in the area, they are also online.

    On the chance that this is not your entire problem, It's good that you did it, and you're only out less than 20 bucks total. Good Luck.


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Check for broken engine mounts. they can show up when you turn.
The CV could be going too. they generally click instead of clonk.

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

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