I had a brake light that for a while was going on and off
It ended up being a really simple fix. The connector that is attached to the car was worn and not making a proper connection with the bulb end. Had it sodered to add more metal for the connection and now it works fine.
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The computer has detected a condition that indicates a fault with the ABS/Traction system. Typically that's caused by a wheel sensor problem, but it can also be caused by a faulty connector, peripheral device or the computer.
The above is the shop or garage answear. How about telling us how to fix the problem , besides replacing the computer or wheel sensor? How do we check these things?
Sometimes can be as simple as a short circuit in the rear break lights or a faulty connection in the break lights.
You can start checking the break light system. Then the sensors and finally the computer.
Your problem is likely as simple as moisture buildup on and around the brake sensors when the temp drops overnight. The moisture can fool your nearly 12 year old sensors into thinking there's a problem when none really exists. Chalk it up to age, and don't worry about it as long as the brakes are working fine and not making any unusual noises.
this is caused by a defective or out of adjustment brake light switch, the switch is located under the dash and is actuated by the arm that the brake pedal is attached to, it has 2 or 2 wires coming out of it.
it cannot be reset. there is a sensor on one of the brake pads which has a connector on it and the connector plugs into wires on the car. if the pads that are on it don't have the electrical sensors in them, cut off the end of the connector on the vehicle and connect the two wires. this will turn off the light. don't worry, no damage will be done by permanently connecting those two wires.
I believe this is most likely a faulty or stuck brake light switch. The lights are actuated when depressing the brake pedal thus closing the circuit in the switch usually attached to the upper end of the pedal near the hinge.
It is not the brake computer. The front left inside brake pad is the noly pad with a sensor in it. If the light is on it is usually because the wire connector broke and is now causing an open signal, cauing the light in the cluster to come on. Remove the front left wheel. Remove the connector for the brake pad attached to the shock assembly. Check the terminals for corrosion. The pins must be clean and not blackend or green. The female side connector terminals must be straight and not widened. If you want to be sure you can do 1 of 2 things. Check the resistance of the the 2 pins going to the brake pad. It must be 0 resistance meaning not open. Or bypass the female connector temporarily with a paper clip or wire and start the car. If the light goes off it means the pad is the cause or the connector. I have often seen the wire still holding and not broken completely but when you remove the pad the ridge of the inside of the disk has worn the wire to the point where it broke prematurally. Sometimes just a light tug and it'll break.
You'll need to disconnect the wires from either the truck connector or the trailer connector... I highly suggest purchasing a voltage checker- it looks like a screwdriver with a pigtail of wire with an alligator clip on the end. The tip of the 'screwdriver' has a point for probing. The light in the probe will light up...makes it easy to trouble shoot without a helper behind the trailer. Hook the aligator clip to a good positive grounding point on the bumper or frame(not painted). then pin by pin on the truck connection, stick the probe on each terminal tab.. and write a simple diagram where you find brake, tail, backup, etc... Then i'd suggest, taking the connector off of your trailer, exposing the wire ends. Run again thru your diagram and turn on each light of the truck. As you do, touch the wires from the trailer to that specific terminal. (make sure your ground wire is attached on the trailer) you can mark each wire with a piece of tape and label it which is which. then simply attach your trailer wires according to your diagram to the terminals in the connector... that should get you in business.. hope that makes sense... That way if the factory wiring harness remains the same, you'll be able to use it with other trailers if the need arises..
cut the wires use the wire connector and reconnect to each other its a simple walmart has a set for 10 bucks to do this and put electrical tape around the wiring 2 seperate wire 2 seperate connectors/ Please rate my response thank you very much
I think that it's your brake light switch it's under the steering column and it has a button that makes contact with the pedal I am assuming that you have no brake lights ? This is the problem? The switch is $10.25 ^ or so at rock auto go under the column down at the brake pedal you will see a connector attached to the switch when you press the pedal the plunger comes out and activates the brake lights so here's a little tip unplug the connection between the two and use a jumper wire on the connector if the brake lights come on the switch is the culprit make sure that the wire is held in with tape so you can look or have somebody stand behind the car while you jump the plug to see the lights come on this is what I think the problem is and is a easy diy fix you can see what the switch looks like at rockauto.Com just search your year and model