When i put it in 4wd it pops out of gear.
SOURCE: How do you remove the gear shift lever on a 93 ford ranger?
many of these trucks have a mazda trans in them, to remove these shifters you will need to remove the 4 phillips head screws from the corners of the trim around the shifter boot and pull it up out of your way. it's not necessary to remove the boot from the shifter, just lift it up for access to the top of the trans. at the base of the shifter on the top of the trans you will see a plate attached with torx head screws. remove all but 2 of them, now make sure the trans is in neutral and remove the last 2 screws and pull the shifter straight up. the shifter is now out leaving a big hole open on the top of the trans for dirt to fal into so put a wrag in it or screw a piece of cardboard to it. installation is the reverse. good luck
SOURCE: Ford Escape Automatic Only Goes Into 1st Gear Manually
it sound like you have a vacum leak or your shifter cable may need adjusted
SOURCE: Ford ranger, getting harder to shift into gear
Suggest you check the fluid level of the transmission first. Remove the fill plug, and see if it is Below the proper level. Do Not fill at this time! There is a reason for this.
Then I would suggest draining the fluid. You are also looking for brass fragments in the fluid. Drain into a three quart metal, or plastic drain pan. (They are approximately 18 inches across, and 4 inches deep)
1.Manual transmissions use Synchronizer's made of a brass alloy. The synchronizers have tapered teeth, that the nose of the teeth can be worn down. Also a tapered surface on the synchronizer, that can be worn down. Brass fragments in the transmission fluid is a sign of this wear.
Some brass 'dust' will occur as normal wear. A large accumulation means you have problems. Transmission is hard to shift, is one of those symptoms due to this.
This link to an animated working of a five-speed manual transmission, may help to explain how the components interact with each other, and also help me to explain the Synchronizer/s.
(From Howstuffworks.com - Auto- Under the Hood - Transmissions and Drivetrain)
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission3.htm
Looking at the animation, observe the 'gold' colored parts. In particular, observe the the pair of gold colored teeth at the rear. (The teeth are in a vertical row, going up and down)
Now also observe the blue colored teeth next to them, on either side. (On the spinning gears)
You are looking at a side view of the transmission, and also a side view of the Synchronizers.
The synchronizers are round just like the gears. They have a Female tapered surface where they meet the gear. The gear has a Male tapered surface on the outside of the gear, that matches.
When the female tapered surface of the synchronizer meets the male tapered surface of the gear, the friction contact makes the synchronizer start turning the same speed, as the gear.
Helps the gear being shifted into start turning also, and the - teeth of the synchronizer, - gear to be engaged, and - already turning components are synchronized to each other. They will be all turning the same speed, so shifting will be smooth.
This shows you Synchronizer rings for a 4-speed Muncie transmission,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUNCIE-4-SPEED-BRASS-SYNCHRONIZER-RINGS-1963-TO-1974_W0QQitemZ360137693405QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&itemid=360137693405
Enlarge it for a better view.
See the teeth going around the synchronizer ring? Notice that they are pointed, or V shaped. When the nose, or tip of this V is worn down, a manual transmission is hard to shift.
Also observe the flat landing on top. (In this view it's on top) The flat landing has three rectangular cutouts in it. (There are used for Detents)
Come from that top landing, down the side to the teeth. This Side has a tapered surface. Tapered ever so slightly, that it is not readily visible in this photo.
When this tapered surface wears down, the transmission is hard to shift.
Summation?
1.Low fluid will cause hard shifting. It will also cause abnormally high wear of the synchronizer rings, (Synchronizer Rings are also referred to as 'Blocker Rings')
2.Worn Synchronizer Rings,
Broken or worn Detent 'buttons',
Broken Detent Springs,
and worn Synchronizer Hub's,
will cause hard shifting.
Should you not have an abnormal amount of brass shavings in your transmission fluid, and found the fluid to be low, you may want to just replace the fluid to the proper level, and see if this works first.
If so, I suggest contacting your Ford dealer, and see what the proper transmission fluid is for YOUR Ford Ranger. They will go by THE transmission is used in your truck, and will have any updates if better fluid has been developed since your truck was made.
I know dealers are expensive to buy from sometimes, but I implore you to use the transmission fluid they recommend.
It will have special additives.
SOURCE: 1994 ford ranger 4x4 hubs make grinding/clicking noise after taken out of four wheel drive
I think yours has the automatic locking hubs that slide over the the rotor hub. If this is the case than what has probably happened is a u-joint has gone bad and wiped out that auto hub.
Be prepared for some sticker shock on those hubs. they are not cheap. The usual fix for this is to replace the front axle ujoints and what ever hub is making the noise, hopefully just one.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa
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