Question about 1997 Ford Thunderbird LX

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We cant get car out of park we checked linkage and the bolt holding linkage to arm on transmission is barely threaded in

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Have you checked to see if the brake lights work? most new cars need to press the brake to release the gear selector. if the brake light switch or circuit does not work properly it will not disengage the lock for the gear shift

Posted on Jun 30, 2009


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93f250 will not go into park or reverse,does the linkage need to be adjusted?


I had a similar problem with my Econoline--the vehicle would not start because the vehicle would not go in park (I had to manually move the linkage arm).
For my problem the linkage bolt had stripped causing an alignment problem therefore I bought a helicoil tap set and re-tapped the hole on the transmission where the linkage braket attached.
Worth a look anyway.

Hope this helps--

Jun 06, 2017 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My car wont go in park. how do you adjust the transmission linkage?

From Underneath the vehicle.. It is connected to the transmission arm via a set bolt and rod. If the rod is bent or the arm is damaged . It will not go into park or shift at all. This happens usually if you run over something that is high enough to scape or hit the bottom of the vehicle.. You will need two people to put the lever in the proper position and the other put the transmission arm in park and set the rod the setscrew in place .. Nine times out of ten it is damaged and you will have to replace it.

Feb 12, 2015 | 1998 Mercury Mountaineer

1 Answer

Why wont my 1986 f250 auto ****** not go into rev. or park

it sounds like you reconnected the linkage in the wrong position so it can still go into the forward gears but there is not enough cable length to allow for reverse and park to be engaged disconnect the linkage again and use trial and error to get it back to where you need it also the linkage should show you where the bolt was that tightened it but if you took it off and then moved either the linkage or the transmission gear selector arm on the transmission now its not in the position it was when you disconnected it resulting in this problem of no access to the other shifter points park reverse and you will have to check all gear shifts till you get it right but if it was in park when you took it off take the linkage off move the trans gear selector to park and reconnect it where the old marks are and you should be O.K.LATER MAN!

Aug 21, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers


  • Get underneath the truck remove the bolt/nut that hold the transmission linkage arm onto the transmission linkage. Carefully move the arm off the linkage. Then move the linkage, on the transmission, into neutral. Push it a couple feet afterward to make sure then winch away.

Regards, Tony

Jun 02, 2011 | Dodge Ram 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I reset the home position on the front windshield wipes of a 2002 Pontiac Montana. The bolt holding the transmission came loose and now the park position is out of sink when they are shut off.

remove the bolt and unhock the linkage, next turn on the wipers and then turn the wipers off, this will park the motor , you will then postion wipers in the park postion and put linkage on the motor, this will line the wipers up, good day.

May 05, 2011 | Pontiac Montana Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I replace the neutral safety switch? Belle Tire says it's part of the Electronic Control Module and wants $463 for the part. Autozone says $33 and that it's not part of the ECM. Anyone out there...

Sounds like they want your money. The switch is on the transmission. It is a $33.00 part. It is on the side of the transmission, under the shifter control arm, the linkage/ shift cable goes to it. It is easy to replace. if you have the cable pop the end off the arm, remove the nut and arm. two bolts hold the switch. If you have linkage , remove the nut and arm. then the two bolts. the switch does not come off easily some times so you will have to pry it off.

Nov 18, 2010 | 1993 Ford Tempo

1 Answer

Changing a transmission in a 1989 Buick Electra Park Avenue

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Open the hood and place protectors on the fenders. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  2. Disconnect the detent cable at its upper end.
  3. Remove the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
  4. Raise the vehicle and safety support it with jackstands. NOTE: If a floor pan reinforcement is used, remove it if it interferes with driveshaft removal or installation.
  5. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
  6. Disconnect the shift linkage at the transmission.
  7. Disconnect all electrical leads at the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
  8. Remove the flywheel cover and matchmark the flywheel and torque converter for later assembly.
  9. Remove the torque converter-to-flywheel bolts and/or nuts.
  10. On gasoline engine vehicles, disconnect the catalytic converter support bracket.
  11. Remove the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
  12. Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
  13. Slide the transmission support rearward.
  14. Loosen the transmission enough to gain access to the oil cooler lines and detent cable attachments.
  15. Disconnect the oil cooler lines and detent cable. Plug all openings.
  16. Support the engine and remove the engine-to-transmission bolts.
  17. Disconnect the transmission assembly, being careful not to damage any cables, lines or linkage.
  18. Install a C-clamp or torque converter holding tool onto the transmission housing to hold the converter in the housing. Remove the transmission assembly from the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this). To install: Fig. 1: Transmission oil cooler lines 85847023.gif

  19. Install the transmission assembly into the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this). When installing the flex plate-to-converter bolts, make sure that the weld nuts on the converter are flush with the flex plate and that the converter rotates freely by hand. Coat the threads with thread locking compound, hand-start the three bolts, tighten them finger tight and torque them evenly to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
  20. Support the engine and install the engine-to-transmission bolts. Torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  21. Connect the oil cooler lines and detent cable.
  22. Slide the transmission support forward.
  23. Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
  24. Install the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
  25. On gasoline engine vehicles, connect the catalytic converter support bracket.
  26. Install the flywheel cover.
  27. Connect all electrical leads to the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
  28. Connect the shift linkage at the transmission.
  29. Connect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
  30. Check to see if all under vehicle components and fasteners are properly installed and torqued.
  31. Lower the vehicle safely.
  32. Install the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
  33. Connect the detent cable at its upper end.
  34. Connect the negative battery cable. Recheck all procedures for completion of repair. Close the hood and remove the protectors on the fenders.
  35. Install the air cleaner assembly. Refill the transmission with fluid as outlined in the "Oil Pan'' section in this chapter.
  36. Start the vehicle and check operation. prev.gif next.gif

Sep 25, 2010 | 1989 Buick Electra

2 Answers

Passenger and driver windshield wipers won't work. i can hear the motor running. i tried to use the wipers to clear off a bunch of snow. it started to go but then stopped. i cleared the rest of the snow by...

see if the transmission arms for the wiper motor are moving when the wiper motor is on. The bolts that hold the arms to the motor may be loose or stripped out from the heavy know. The threads for these bolts are thin and don't take much to strip.

Jan 01, 2010 | Subaru Outback Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My 1996 jeep grand cherokee, wont drive in reverse, sometimes turns off in park, and drives in neutral. What could be the problem, would replacing the valve body fix this ?

sounds like the transmission linkage is out of adjustment,loosen the bolt that connects the linkage to the transmission,put the lever in the car in park and move the linkage on the transmission to park, tighten bolt,try that if you needmore help get back to me Thanks Ray

Nov 09, 2009 | Jeep Grand Cherokee Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Will not shift into overdrive

Your application does call for a 4L60E, and it sounds like what you purchased is also a 4L60E. Your application does not call for a neutral safety switch. The transmission that you purchased (assuming that it was a neutral safety switch) has a longer shift arm. I have no personal experience with using this longer shift arm, in an application that calls for the shorter arm, but I think that may be part of your problem. The geometry of the shift arm, and the shift arm linkage is now off, as a result of the longer shift arm. If you still have the original transmission, those arms can be interchanged. You will need to remove the transmission pan. The shift arm extends through the case, and is connected to a rooster comb, and the park rod, by a 15mm castle nut, and a spacer between the rooster comb and the inside wall of the case. It is easiest to remove the shift arm if you first remove the 13mm bolt holding the thin arm, with the roller on the end, that rests on the rooster comb. Next remove the two 13mm bolts closest to the rear of the transmission, holding the park rod assembly in place. Now the park rod should drop towards the ground, and the rooster comb, and shift rod should be able to spin on the shift rods axis. Now you want to remove the 15mm nut, on the inside of the shift rod. Once the nut is no longer on the threads of the shift rod, you want to remove, with a screwdriver, the spacer that is on the shift rod, between the rooster comb, and the case. Just get under the spacer and pry towards you. Once that spacer is removed, the shift rod should be able to slide most of the way out of the case.Now remove the 15mm nut, and rooster comb. You will most likely need to hand file the innermost part of the shift rod, on the inside, case side of the threads, right before the threads are cut into the shift rod. Installation of the shorter shift rod, will be the reverse of the removal. Next we move on to the speedo. The first thing I would check, is that the output shaft of the new transmission has a reluctor ring on it. Remove the speedo from the tailhousing of the transmission, and look into the speedo hole with a flashlight, or droplight. Your looking for a ring, on the shaft running through the tailhousing, with straight, small, closley spaced teeth on it. If it is there, but not lined up directly with the backside of the speedo you removed... it will need to be aligned, by a transmission shop. If there is no ring on the output shaft, behind the speedo, well theres your problem. If it is a plastic, helical, colord gear, you will need a reluctor installed, most likely by a transmission shop. If there is a reluctor in place, and it does appear to be alinged with the speedo, you might want to start testing the wires, back to the speedometer in the dash. If that still hasnt fixed your problem, or you want somthing clairfied... send me an e-mail. Good luck!

Apr 10, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet K1500

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