Question about 1991 Nissan 300ZX

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Ok i gotta 91 TT and i replaced the ignition coil connectors and the ignotion coils themselfs, now its seems as two of my ignition coils wont get power to them to create a spark on my sparkplug (of course)...so does anyone know what could be up with this? trying to get my baby back on the road, need help asap, thank you

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Ptu (power transistor unit)

http://www.mdsmarthome.com/z/Z%20Tech/Z%20Tech%20PDF's/PTU%20Repair.pdf

the series 1 ptu goes out really often. you can repair it or buy a new one.

had the same problem with mine replaced the ptu and worked like new.

the ptu is on the passenger side timing cover with two connectors going to it.

Posted on Jan 26, 2010

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My 91 nissan stanza will start fine cold but aftr I drive for 20 miniutes it cranks but wont start up and if i leave it for about 30 miniutes it will start up


That sounds like an ignition coil problem. If that model uses an ignition coil (not electronic ignition), it probably needs to be replaced.

Nov 02, 2016 | 1991 Nissan Stanza

2 Answers

IGNITION FAILURE ON 280 ZX (82)


  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the fusible link connector for the fuel injection wiring harness. Be sure the ignition is OFF before doing this. Disconnect the cold start valve wiring harness connector. Disconnect the high tension lead (coil-to-distributor) at the distributor and hold it 0.13-0.25 in. (3.3-6.3mm) away from the cylinder head with a pair of insulated pliers and a heavy glove. When the engine is cranked, a spark should be observed. If not, check the lead and replace as necessary. If there is still no spark, go on with the following system checks.
    1. Make a check of the power supply circuit. Turn the ignition OFF. Detach the connector from the top of the IC unit. Turn the ignition ON. Measure the voltage at each terminal of the connector in turn by touching the probe of positive lead of the voltmeter to one of the terminals and touching the probe of the negative lead of the voltmeter to a ground, such as the engine. In each case, battery voltage should be indicated. If not, check all of the wiring, the ignition switch and all connectors for breaks, corrosion, discontinuity etc., then repair as necessary
    2. Check the primary windings of the ignition coil. Turn the ignition OFF. Detach the harness connector from the negative coil terminal. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the positive and negative coil terminals. If resistance is 0.84-1.02 ohms, the coil is OK; replace it if the reading is far from this range.
  2. If the power supply, circuits, wiring and coil are in good shape, check the IC unit and pick-up coil as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition OFF.
    2. Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
    3. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals of the pick-up coil, where they attach to the IC unit. Measure the resistance by reversing the polarity of the probes. If approximately 400 ohms are indicated, the pick-up coil is OK, but the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
0900c152800716f1.jpgFig. 10: Connect the ohmmeter to the pick-up coil terminals-1979-83 models 0900c152800716f3.jpgFig. 11: Remove the screws (arrows) to detach the IC unit-1979-83 models
  1. If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, proceed with the following:
    1. Be certain the two pin connector to the IC unit is secure.
    2. Turn the ignition ON.
    3. Measure the voltage at the ignition coil's negative terminal.
    4. Turn the ignition OFF.
WARNINGRemove the tester probe from the coil negative terminal before switching the ignition OFF, to prevent burning out the tester.
    1. If 0 voltage is indicated, the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
  1. If battery voltage is indicated, remove the IC unit from the distributor, by proceeding as follows:
    1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
    2. Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
    3. Disconnect the harness connector from the top of the IC unit.
    4. Remove the two screws securing the IC unit to the distributor.
    5. Disconnect the two pick-up coil wires from the IC unit.
WARNINGPull the connectors free with a pair of needlenose pliers. DO NOT pull on the wires to detach the connectors.
    1. Remove the IC unit.
  1. Measure the resistance between the terminals of the pick-up coil. It should be approximately 400 ohms. If so, the pick-up coil is OK and the IC unit is bad. If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, the pick-up coil is bad and must be replaced.

Oct 13, 2008 | 1983 Nissan 280ZX

1 Answer

Can someone please tell me where the ignition control module is on a 91 buick regal?


The ignition control module is usually located Under the coil packs when you remove the coil packs the ICm will have 2 male connectors for each coil

Oct 15, 2012 | 1991 Buick Regal

1 Answer

I have a wv microbus 2.3i 1998,it just went of while i'm at a speed of 120km/h since than it doesn't want to start.the coil is get current its not sparking,what might be the...


Dear Sir,
As you said coil is getting currant but not sparking further to spark plug , then check few things.

1 Check the connector is proper fitted on ignition coil.

2. No lose connection with pin of connector or pin should not be lose.

3. All pins are clean of connector and no rust is there.

4. Check High Tension cable (cablle black couler which run from ignition coil to spark plug) if found ok then try with new cable if it wont start.

5. It is problem with ignition coil replace it problem will solve.

Problem can solve at any step from 1 to 5 i did arrange all steps by easy to check and less expanses, final step will more expansive than earlier step.if any issue let me know. thanks

Yogesh

Nov 16, 2010 | 2005 Volkswagen Microbus

1 Answer

I have a 91 f250 with 7.5 liter and no spark. where may the problem be?


Use a test light and check to see if there is battery voltage present at the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position if no battery voltage is present at the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position then there is a power supply or wiring problem to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then with the test light on the "Neg" (-) or negative side of the ignition coil crank the engine over. The test light should flash or pulse indicating that there is a dwell signal to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil and there is a dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, and there is still no spark from the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, and there is no dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, then the Ignition module, or the pick-up coil/stator would be the most likely cause of the problem.

Check to see if that ignition system actually used an ignition module on the side of the distributor, and if the distributor does have an ignition module mounted on the side of it, then it is most likely faulty and those modules were prone to failure from excessive engine heat. Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector from the pick-up coil/stator where the ignition module connects to it, and if the connector is dark or burnt looking then also replace the pick-up coil/stator or the entire distributor. You might need a Ford ignition module wrench to remove the ignition module from the side of the distributor and most auto part stores will have one for only a few dollars.

Here are some images to assist you and notice the white connector on the ignition pick-up coil/stator and when that connector turns dark or burnt looking then it is faulty.


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Jun 19, 2010 | 1991 Ford F250

1 Answer

2000 Silverado-4.3 ltre-cranks over-wont start-consistenly puts out P1351 code-crank senser,cam senser, ignition control module, spark plugs and distributor have been replaced. Wiring from PCM to crank...


Yes. First, in the fuse block under the hood check INJ A fuse and INJ B fuse. INJ A fuse is circuit 1039 which feeds the coil. If the fuse is OK, replace the coil electrical connector. I stock 2 of these at my dealership because they are needed quite often.
FYI P1351 is an ignition coil control circuit DTC.

Aug 30, 2009 | Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

While driving, the engine dies.


I had the same thing happen on a 91 Olds 88. Replaced crank shaft position sensor, coil, and ignition module. That solved the problem. I think the culprit was the CSP Sensor, but changed all three so can't say for sure.

Jan 31, 2009 | 1991 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency

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