Question about 1999 Dodge Intrepid

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My air conditioning unit only blows hot air - 1999 Dodge Intrepid

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  • Anonymous Mar 12, 2014

    2005 lincoln ls air conditioning working one day next day blowing real hot air

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I believe you have a leak in your AC system. You will need to do a leak test, stop the leak and refill your system with refrigerant. You can buy the items to do this repair at most automotive stores. (you may not have a leak, you might just have to recharge the system with new refrigerant)

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

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First thing you should check is the clicking sound coming from under the hood once you turn on the AC. This should tell you that the AC compressor has engaged. If there is no noise then it could be an issue with the electrical/wiring/relay or a faulty compressor. Check out the fan under the hood. One fan should turn on once the AC is on. If does not turn on it could be electrical/wiring/relay. If that check out OK. Have your AC tested for freon. You local AC should should have the tools to measure this one. If there is a decrease, have your AC system checked out for leaks before filling. If it checks out OK, have the evaporator (the part of the AC under the hood) if it needs cleaning. While at it have it inspected for damages.

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

vmhreha
  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: air condition/heater

sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:

  1. Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
  1. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:

  2. the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
  • the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
  • the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
  • the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
  • the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
  • the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
  1. Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
  2. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
  3. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
  4. Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
  5. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: ford ka heater blows hot air all the time

Taurus does not use a heater control valve. It runs coolant thru the heater core constantly. You may have a temp blend door actuator problem or a plugged up heater core is also very common. Feel the heater hoses, they should both be very hot, it one is much cooler; you can try to back flush the core.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

  • 316 Answers

SOURCE: Would like to recharge my air conditioning on my 2001 nissian maxima that has 117,000 on it blows hot air when air conditioning is turned on.

You will need R134a, and a filler hose. Charge the system on the low pressure side, it should have a blue cap on the charge point.
Your filler hose will only fit the low pressure side, just in case the cap has been removed.

Posted on May 23, 2009

polarcycle
  • 1392 Answers

SOURCE: My air conditioning blows hot air. Won't accept

Is the system low on Freon? If not, you most likely have a bad A/C compressor, or a bad low pressure switch.

Posted on Jun 10, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: ford ka heater blows hot air all the time

Your problem is a faulty heater control valve. The design used on these vehicles allows for hot water to flow constantly and compete with the evaporator as there is no blender door. You have to replace the valve and possibly the control head. Meanwhile, you can bypass the valve to have cold air

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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The first thing to do would be go to your local auto parts store and buy an air conditioning recharge kit. Provided your vehicle isn't too old, they sell recharge kits that require no tools.

If their is a leak anywhere while you recharge, you will know.

Try recharging the air conditioning first, it is very simple and the kits come with simple instructions.

If there are no leaks, your A\C will blow cold air again. As for the pressure, if it continues to slightly blow air you may be looking at a new air compressor unit or a vaccum line. A new unit will run you anywhere from $200-$2000 dollars plus labor depending on the vehicle.

If the recharge works, at least you will have slightly blowing cold air rather than hot and you can continue that way until the unit fails.

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Sounds like your freon has leaked out and your heater blower resistor is burned out. Deffinitly take this to the dealer.

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