Brake line routing diagragm

Jesse, The module will not stop fluid to rear brakes, a bad master cylinder will,leaking lines, air in brake system, faulty metering block if equipped, collapsed flex lines or pinched brake line faulty caliper or brake cylinders,etc. will cause the possible feeling of no rear brakes.
(ABS Module components) the ABS speed sensors and the ABS control module . When the brake is applied, the ABS control module reads the speed data from the speed sensor and sends the correct pressure to each wheel to prevent any wheel lock up, eg. sliding/skidding Links below have more info.
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Service Stability System AND abs Pump issue

ABS Control Module Replacement Service Cost YourMechanic

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,2002,escalade,5.3l+v8,1431695,brake/wheel+hub,abs+control+module,1844

check for a rusted brake line under the module if the lines look good then the module has a leak and these are not rebuildable by any one other than a rebuilder. you will have to replace the module.

so let me get this straight-you had a brake line that rusted through and you are replacing it from like the rear block that separates the rear wheels to the abs unit and you lose which line is which when it passes around a body mount and goes up the firewall. what I would do is push and or pull that line-take it out of the clips that hold it along the way-tracking until you reach your destination-brake lines are a nasty job-ask your auto parts guy about the newer more flexible brake line that can be bent by hand-they are wonder full-also I make all the connections up with a flanger flair tool and you should get a small pipe cutter so so the ends will be nice and straight-cheers Denny

sounds like there is still an air pocket in the brake lines somewhere or the abs box is bad which will cause that too

just go to any auto parts store and ask them to give you a diagram print out they did it for me.

I had something similar on my old 92 dakota

In my case it was the rear only abs hcu unit

Your rubber hose goes to either the brake tube from
the front of the truck ( rear feed) or to as you said some
other brake component.

You should be able to determine where the leak is &
if you have to replace a component unknown to us,because of rust & leaking- the dealer will be the source

The auto parts stores stopped having intellegent life about
25 years ago,they can't keep up with technology & your dealing
with young non car guys.

At the dealers parts counter they will show you on their computer
a picture of your frame & unknown part- if you even need it

Most likely you will be fabricating a rusted brake tube,hang in there

All of that is not important

You can not get any brake tubing from a dealer, even for a
brand new vehicle,never could

When 3/16" steel brake tubing rusts out,you need to purchase
tubing of different lengths, at the auto parts store.

You cut,bend,and flair the ends yourself,fabricate so to speak,
no other way.

You use only the 3/16 double flair connectors, if you can not make
an end to end run.

You start by removing the tubing near where it rusted through or leaks
You go to the nearest original connection,a wheel cylinder,abs module etc.
Then as you construct the tubing going back toward the master at the front,
you may want to cut it and flair the OE Tube and stop there.
There is no need to go end to end,and put yourself through all that stress.

Just replace the rusted area unless you can easily get to a line.

If your not going back to the maste,r which line doesn't matter
If your going end to end you will answer your question as you remove
the old tubing

If your doing several rusted lines for safety sake,do one at a time

If it's a metal line, Your local auto parts store should be able to order it for you or worst case you'll have to make your own from straight tubbing and a bender. I don't recall ever seeing diagrams for metal lines, usually there pre made to replace the factory one or you can splice a replacement piece in place of a damaged section. AS far as the line goes to the module, try following it up to it with a good flahlight and a sharppe from the rear forward.

It's the same as any other car or truck. Simply cut the rubber off & there's a nut,like any other brake line. Loosen the lines as you would for any job. Now you say the lines are rusted,if they're that bad then you'll need to replace them from front to rear. This requires a tubing bender(hand held) & a doulble flare tool & unions. You can forget about that "expensive" part. It's a brake balance controler & never goes bad.

I would pull the fuse for the ABS hydraulic pump and then put it back in and see what happens. Don't ever recall a pump running. Dealer may need to hook up scan tool for diagnostic fault codes, DTCs.



Principles of Operation
The ABS control module receives wheel speed readings from both front wheel speed sensors and the rear differential speed sensor, and processes this information to determine if an ABS event is necessary. The wheel speed sensor electrically senses each tooth of the ABS sensor indicators as it passes through the wheel speed sensor's magnetic field.
The ABS control module continuously monitors and compares the rotational speed of each wheel speed sensor indicator and, when it detects an impending wheel lock, modulates brake pressure to the appropriate brake caliper(s). This is accomplished by triggering the hydraulic control unit (HCU) to open and close the appropriate solenoid valves. Once the affected wheel returns to normal speed, the ABS control module returns the solenoid valves to their normal position, and normal (base) braking resumes.
The ABS control module is self-monitoring. When the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, the ABS control module will do a preliminary electrical check, and at approximately 20 km/h (12 mph), the pump motor is turned on for approximately one-half second. Any malfunction of the ABS system will cause the ABS to shut off; normal power assisted braking, however, remains.
Inspection and Verification — Scan Tool Communications Check

1. Verify the customer concern by carrying out the Drive Cycle Test.

1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical and electrical damage.

Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Parking brake cable
• Tire pressure
• Tire size or mismatched tires

• Blown fuse
• Central junction box (CJB):
  • fuse 23 (10A)
• Battery junction box
  • fuse 102 (50A)
• Connectors or connections
• Ground integrity
• Harness routing
• Wire chafing
• Circuitry open/shorted

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Anti-Lock Control The four-wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS) consists of the following components:

• Anti-lock brake control module (2C265)
• Front anti-lock brake sensor (2C204)
• Front anti-lock brake sensor indicator (2C182)
• Hydraulic control unit (2C219)
• Rear anti-lock brake sensor (2C190)
• Rear anti-lock brake sensor indicator (2C189)
• Yellow ABS warning indicator