Question about 1995 Volvo 850

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1995 Volvo 850 Overheating

1995 Volvo 850. Overheating for the last 4 weeks, replaced the radiator, fan, 3 thermostates and lots of coolant. What next, it will be fine for 20-30 miles then it goes red

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  • trdenne Jun 29, 2009

    I'll keep you posted...I'll try that tonight

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  • Volvo Master
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Water pump impeller is loose on the drive shaft its plastic and they come away from the splines ,cheap crapo idea but ??

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Jun 29, 2009

    see how it goes ,but had a couple of cars with this problem and one of them was this model volvo and a saab as i remember ,plus my own seat cordoba with a VW engine

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U need to try bleeding the cooling system, here is how u do that.

The generic method of bleeding air from the cooling system is to use a floor jack and raise the front of the car as high as poss, then fill the coolant recovery tank full and run the engine until it just starts to overheat, high end of normal zone on gauge, then shut the engine down and run cold water over the radiator core, this will self bleed the system and the coolant will be pulled from the recovery tank, repeat as necessary, never let the recovery tank run dry or more air will be pulled into the cooling systeml , if it still overheats then you need to have the head gaskets checked with a gas analyzer for hydrocarbons present in the radiator or recovery tank

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I have a leaky hose above the lower radiator hose on my 1995 volvo 850 2.4 engine,is this a coolant line to the transmission or to the power steering? PLEASE NO SPAM OR ADVERTISING,AND DO NOT SHARE E-MAIL


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Jul 05, 2010 | 1995 Volvo 850

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1995 Volvo 850 Overheating


head gasket is blown

Apr 26, 2010 | 1995 Volvo 850

1 Answer

My 1996 Volvo 850 2.4 I5 non-turbo appears to be overheating. I replaced the Thermostat but it still appears to be overheating. How do I troubleshoot to see if it is the radiator or maybe the cooling fans?


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The water pump has what's called a 'weeping hole' built into it. If the pump is bad You'll se water coming out of the hole. When was the last time you flushed the radiator? It may be your radiator cap is bad, they should be changed once a year & the radiator flushed. You can also test ur thermostate. take out ur thermostate & put it in a pot of water so that the water covers the thermostate. Then put a cooking thermometer in the pot to & heat the water til it says 195. u should see the car thermostate begin to open. if it don't it's bad & needs replacing.

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2001 volvo s440 1.9t


Volvo Radiator, Thermostat and Sensors Your cooling system's temperature controls include all coolant temperature sensors, Volvo thermostat, Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap, cooling fan(s) and fan clutch (if equipped). These cooling system parts function primarily independent of the engine but control the engine either through cooling or by sending control signals to your Volvo's electronic systems.
The Volvo thermostat is a spring-loaded valve that opens and closes based on the temperature of the coolant flowing through it. A high temperature reading followed by a drop to normal temperature (or a continuously low temperature) is a common first sign of a sticking Volvo thermostat. However, many other conditions may cause these symptoms, so you need to know how to eliminate each possibility.
The Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap is also a spring-loaded valve reacting to system pressure. It serves to maintain proper system coolant level at predetermined pressures. It must always be replaced with an exact replacement cap with the same pressure setting. Never use other caps except for short-term emergencies!
A belt-driven fan blade for pulling air through the Volvo radiator is usually on the Volvo water pump pulley and should have a fan clutch to control it. The fan clutch allows the fan to turn with the belt at low engine speed and "free-wheel" at higher speeds. A bad fan clutch either doesn't allow the fan to spin at low speed (overheating in traffic) or doesn't allow it to free-wheel at high speed (potential overheating on highway or reduced gas mileage).
An electric fan can be either by itself (usually front-wheel drive) or auxiliary (used with a mechanical fan). Both types are controlled via a temperature sensor - in the Volvo radiator or upper Volvo radiator hose or on the Volvo thermostat or Volvo water pump housing. This sensor is usually an on/off type switch with a fixed temperature setting. (Some vehicles may have 2-3 settings for multi-speed fans.) This sensor is commonly called an "auxilliary fan switch".
Other common temperature sensors are: 1) gauge sender (variable output); 2) warning light sender (on/off type); 3) lambda and/or fuel injection sensor(s) (variable to control fuel injection settings); 4) thermo-time switch (cold start valve control). Your Volvo may have other sensors as well.
Temperature control is critical to both performance and emission control. Unfortunately, this system is the most difficult to troubleshoot without proper equipment and diagrams. It's even more difficult with computers that adjust timing, idle speed, vacuum and fuel delivery automatically to make up for potentially faulty temperature sensor signals.
Maintenance of your cooling system sensors is virtually impossible since there's nothing really to "maintain". Keeping them clean both internally (coolant replacement) and externally (engine cleaning) is the best way to ensure trouble-free driving. Checking and replacing all parts at the factory-recommended time or mileage limits helps as well

Jul 23, 2009 | 2001 Volvo S40

2 Answers

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1. start the engine and leave the radiator cap open.
2. put a cardboard cover or a rug in the front of you radiator.
3. let it runs 20 minutes or more, see if it is overheated and see the water or coolant in the radiator circulated or not. If not, as soon as you have already changed water pump. thermostate and check the hoses, no leak, I think your radiator was blocked.


Did you put stop leak before?

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