The auto parts store sells the brake line material in various lengths that I will bend to fit.
First, you need to inspect all the metal lines under your vehicle to make sure that the rest does not show ANY sign of rust and if you find any sign of rust, then they will need to be replaced as well. Most of the lines run parallel with the frame of the vehicle, jack the vehicle up and support it with jack stands so you can safely work on it!
You will need a few tools, line bender, tubing cutter, flaring tool, correct sizes of line wrenches, string, tape and some type of stiff wire such as a few metal clothes hangers straightened out. You can use some string to find out the length, tape 1 end of the string at the first junction/union in the line needing repair/replacing. Run the string along the line, you can tape it where ever needed to hold it to the line, until you get to the next junction/union.
Once you have traced all the bad area of your line(s) that needs to be replaced then cut/mark your string and remove it from the bad line & measure. Now, with me saying this, you ALWAYS will need more in length on the new/replacement line as some of the bends you can not duplicate exactly! For instance, if you figure you need 36" inches of line, (unless the line has NO BENDS in it), I would safely figure at least another extra 12" inches! Every bend has a take-up of length in it, which means the line will be shorter after you make said bends!
Next, using the straightened out clothes hanger wire (or any other stiff but bendable wire), use it as a guide to use when you go to make the same bends in your replacement-new line. You can hand bend the bends & angles and such in the wire so you can use it as a pattern to duplicate them in the new line. Make sure you use flared fitting unions to join each section of metal line together!
NEVER use compression type fittings on brake lines!!! If your not sure of how to do this procedure correctly, I would HIGHLY suggest taking your vehicle to a qualified repair shop. We are talking about your brakes, if you can not stop properly, not only are you putting your own life in your hands (and whomever else may be riding in your vehicle), but other motorists on the road with you as well! And, this shouldn't cost all that much to get it repaired. Always price around! Get at least 2 estimates or more, most shops may give free estimates. :)
And, if you can do this repair, ALWAYS check for leaks after repairs have been performed! You will have to bleed your braking system to get all the air out of it and this is not easily done if your vehicle is equipped with ABS. Once all air has been bled off and you have good brake pedal again, have someone crank vehicle and apply a lot of pressure to the brake pedal while at the same time you inspect each junction/union for leaks! Also, make sure that the new line is supported & routed away from any/all moving parts as well as hot exhaust. Hope this helps you.
Just have to roughly measure it first before getting new line and add 10% for good measure, use a piece of string and trace along the brake line with it , much easier than a ruler
SOURCE: Brake line for a ford taurus gl 3.0 v-6
most brake lines are 1/8"(0.125) suprised parts store couldnt cross reference for you generally you can buy the line prefab with all fittings the right bends and length alot easier to install hope this helps
SOURCE: Brake line burst 1999 ford expedition
Which brake line are you talking about?. The metal steel ones,or the rubber ones. Doesn't matter. If you are buying the rubber ones, then just ask for them by year and model of truck.
If you are working with the steel ones, they are either going to be 5/16 or 1/4 depending which line it is. the 5/16 ones are usually attached to the master cylinder or the ABS unit. The fittings sometimes if you don't find the right one have to be re used, in which case you will need to flare the tubing. (Double Flare) Or you can go to the dealer, pay an arm and a leg, but you don't have to flare the tubing, which takes the fun out of the job.
SOURCE: REPLACEMENT OF [LOW BEAM] HALOGEN BULB IN 2004 Buick LeSabre
I just Replaced a Low Beam Light bulb on a 2005 Buick La Sabre.
If You use a Metric socket and Remove the Two Silver bolts Attaching the headlight Assemble onto the metal surrounding the the lamp assembly it comes out to the front. This makes it much easier to access the bulb. Twist it counerclockwise & it comes out by pulling gently on the bulb. Then by realeasing a tab that is the socket holder bulb can be removed & replaced with a New #9006 low beam halogen light bulb. Wrap a Paper towel around the bulb & do NOT touch it with your bare hand as this wiil ruin a halogen bulb,
SOURCE: 96 Buick Lesabre needs 4 rear engine cradle bolts,
Goto any GM parts department and they will give/show the diagram for free, as well as the part numbers and prices....be sitting down when ya hear the prices.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c
SOURCE: blower motor replacement
Very easy!!!
Here ya go!!!
Removal & Installation
To install:
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