You may want to do a inspection of your cooling system, here's a list that might help,
Check the thermostat, if it's defective replace it.
Check the coolant in the reservoir tank, it should be at the proper full level.
Sometimes when you change a thermostat there's a possibility you could get air in your coolant lines from having the coolant system opened up, this could keep your coolant from circulating through your system, if so you will need to bleed the air out of the coolant system.
The water pump should be inspected for leaking coolant out of the weep hole's, when a water pump go'es bad it may leak coolant, which would mean the seals on the pump are bad, also listen for squealing noise's coming from the pump when the car is started, if it squeals the bearings are bad, there is also a possibility the water pump fins are wore down from corrosion, there is no way to inspect this without removing the pump.
check the drive-belt for wear and tension, a bad tensioner or a bad drive-belt could have an effect on the operation of the water pump.
check the pressure cap on the coolant reservoir tank for good pressure, when you remove the cap you should hear a hissing sound this means you have good pressure in your cooling system, check for corrosion or build up on the cap, clean the cap if necessary, also check the coolant in the reservoir tank, it should be clean, if not you might need to have the cooling system flushed, during the flush you can observe if the coolant has a good flow through the system.
check the large upper and lower radiator hose's for crack's, swelling, and proper coolant flow.
Check the operation of the cooling Fan, and circuit, cooling fans use relays and fuses, some vehicles use more than one cooling fan, if your vehicle has two cooling fans there should be two relays and two fuses one for each fan, first visually inspect the fuses if one or both are bad replace them, you can test the relay or relays for continuity by removing them and doing a proper continuity test according to your relays circuit diagram.
Check the coolant temperature sensor, most coolant temperature sensors are located directly in the thermostat housing, this sends information to your pcm which determines when to turn your cooling fan on and off, if it's defective replace it.
Inspect the radiator grill for damage or debris build up.
Remove the brake caliper
Remove the disc, (rotor)
Remove the 34mm nut on the axel shaft
Remove the three (3) bolts from the back side
You will need a wheel puller (three jaw will work well)
Place the puller over the hub and tighten, this will push the shaft out of the hub. Now you have to pull the hub assy. out of the mounting bracket. I found hitting each side,of the hub with a lead hammer to work well. Don't forget to disconnect the ABS senser on the back side of the hub assy.
Do not over tighten the 34mm axel nut when you install the new assy. If you use an impact whrench on it you will damage the bearing.
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experience has proved that flushing a radiator is a waste of effort
the flush only cleans out the open tubes and not the blocked ones and the salts in the block now flow into the radiator and block the rest
check the fan operation
viscous fan hub --replace the fan hub
electric fans check the system from the coolant sensor , fuses (2) , relay and fans
To keep them running, pull the plug off the engine coolant sensor. They will run even with the key on (PCM default). To get them to stop running, replace the engine coolant sensor.
thermostat sticking. pressure cap (radiator cap) to low release pressure. Pressure work like this water boil at 212F each pound of pressure cap = 3 degrees F . then a 15 psi cap is 15 x 3 = 45F so it means that water coolant will boil at 212F +45F + antifreeze boiling point.
Problem is the inside blower fan, not the raditor fan. T/S to a bad relay on the blower control modual which had to be purchased from the dealer. $274 later it is fixed.
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