Question about 1994 Lexus LS 400

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My fan bearing is locked up and smaller pulley above it is going

Also im not sure about the seal between the thermastat houseing and the top of the water pump becuace its leaking, does this mean the water pump is going out and this is a direct effect of that.

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  • Lexus Master
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Replace the thermostat gasket and O -ring first.they dont cost much.if it still leaks its your water pump leaking time to replace.

Posted on Jun 29, 2009


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1 Answer

Screeching metallic sound coming from engine during ide and during driving

Sounds like a roller bearing is failing. One of the oldest tricks in the book: BE VERY CAREFUL when doing this. Take the longest screwdriver you have; Place the metal end just behind the pulley, and on the bearing housing of each of the engine accessories and tensioner, then carefully put your ear to the handle (don't let it slip off or get into a belt!!!). The screwdriver will act as a stethoscope, amplifying the bearing noise. This was taught to me by my Grandfather who was a mechanic in the 30's thru 50's when diagnostic procedures were done in a more artisan fashion. It does work and although free and effective, it can be dangerous. If you want a safer method, buy yourself a mechanic's stethoscope like one of these:
All I can say is if you have a bearing howling or squealing you will be able to isolate it best by sound. This condition will not be a problem for long, because if it's a bad bearing, it will soon lock up and rub the belt in two. Other possibilities are: A/C clutch slipping, loose and slipping belt (usually from some accessory being too hard to turn), PS pump very low on fluid or failing. You just have to get under there and find the problem. Remember, the smaller the (driven) pulley, the higher RPM the accessory runs in relation to the drive pulley (usually the Balancer). Point being, things with smaller pulleys have many times more revolutions then things with larger pulleys. Bearings on smaller pulleys will fail first (usually). The sound is most likely metal on metal, and hardened steel at that. Best of luck to you!

Jun 14, 2015 | 1984 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Who to replace jeep liberty rearwheel bearing

no year stated.
so how'd we look that up, seeing as how that is 1st question.

ill guess for you. (posted many times this) so 1 more time.
2007 (roll dice i did)

read the FSM ? book,
read online log in read. its there.
first parts. is this your first ever axle job>? that be key fact. there.

part 7 and 8 , must be changed, not ever just one.

this axles called 8-1/4 axle has locks.
see part id 56 in above link parts page.
it must be removed first. (or 2nd to last step)
so where do you get lost? at drums off or allsteps.

my guess once you see all the steps you will get service, right>?
most here do that, once reality hits. home.
my guess once the axle is out , you then ask how to get bearing off.

REMOVAL (fsm has photos, im too lazy to do all that here)
1. With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on hoist.
2. Remove rear brake components.
3. Remove wheel speed sensor.
4. Remove differential housing cover and drain lubricant.
5. Rotate differential case so pinion mate shaft (1)
lock screw (4) is accessible. Remove lock screw
and pinion mate shaft from differential case.
6. Push axle shaft inward and remove axle shaft
C-lock (1) from the axle shaft (2).
7. Remove axle shaft from side gear (3) and axle

now the bearing. pull seal with seal pick. seal out.

NOTE: Remove bearing with Bearing Remover
6310 and Foot 6310-9.
1. Remove axle shaft.
2. Remove axle seal with seal pick.
3. Position bearing (2) receiver (1) on axle tube.
4. Insert bearing remover Foot 6310-9 (3) through
receiver (2) and bearing (1).
5. Tighten remove nut (1) on the shaft (4) to pull bearing
into the receiver (3).

im not doing install, sorry. you can read the FSM or log in to and read it all, with photos and tools shown.

07 axle, ive no idea what year your car is , no axle options. sorry.
there it is. with special tool to do extractions.....

Mar 21, 2015 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Front seal replacement

Hi No Name, The most likely place of the leakage on your car is the front crankshaft oil seal. The oil pan (sump) is fitted with silicon from a tube as the gasket. It rarely leaks unless someone has broken the seal, which is difficult and usually needs a special tool for removal. To replace it you'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the PK (Serpentine) belt and the power steering pump belt and the front engine mounting (Front of the engine but fitted onto the side of the body) Next remove the crank shaft pulley, (a difficult part of the job, made easier if the starter motor is removed and a dog tooth tool is bolted into the most suitable starter motor attachment bolt holes, the dog tooth is used to lock the flywheel while removing the crankshaft bolt holding the pulley (which is torqued to 76 nm when re-fitting. Use a puller to remove the pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the ten mm bolts holding the two parts of the timing belt cover. Set the engine to T.D.C (Top Dead Center) and look for the match marks for re-timing the engine when refitting the timing belt. Once alignment has been achieved release the bolt holding the tensioner bearing and push it all the way open, releasing all tension from the timing belt and remove the timing belt. The oil seal can now be removed from its housing. Fit a replacement oil seal smearing a light coating of grease on the seal lip. Press evenly into place, making sure of an even flush fit. Replace the timing belt with a new belt, Re-align the belt so that the match marks align precisely to those on the gears by fitting and adjusting on the straight side of the belt. Once correctly fitted, gently release the tensioner bearing until it comes into full contact with the belt and hand tighten the fixing bolt and then loosen half one turn. Remove the dog tooth tool. Screw in the crankshaft pulley bolt and apply enough force to take up slack and tighten the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft bolt and then reassemble opposite to disassembly. Remember to refit the dog tooth for re-tightening the crankshaft bolt.

Jun 28, 2014 | 1993 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Water Pump leaks from the front end of the Wagon.

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
  1. Determine the Reason for Water Pump Failure
    • 1 Repair a water pump by checking your car for a failure in the bearings. You can test for bearing failure by seeing if there is any play in the shaft that is connected to the electrical fan blades, as well as the drive pulley to the pump itself.
    • 2 If you notice any free play in the shaft or the pulley, you will need to take the pump apart and replace the bearings.

    • 3 Determine if the water pump failure is due to a leak in the casing. Examine the water pump housing for leaking or water stains in the drainage hole next to the pulley.
    • 4 If water is dripping from this hole, then the seals inside the pump need to replaced in order to repair the pump.
    Remove the Water Pump for Repair
    • 5 Allow the engine to cool completely before removing any part of the cooling system. Never open a radiator cap or plug while the engine is still warm.
    • 6 Disconnect the car battery. This will prevent the electrical fan from turning on while you are under the hood.
    • 7 Drain the radiator of all fluid and disconnect the radiator hoses. Collect the fluid with a plastic container and keep it in a safe place until you are ready to put it back into the radiator.
    • 8 Remove the fan assembly. This will include the shroud, the fan and the fan belt. Disconnect the electrical leads for the fan.
    • 9 Remove the pulley for the fan belt as well in order to have access to the water pump.
    • 10 Use a socket set to remove the water pump from its engine mount.
    • 11 Open the housing for the water pump and replace the seals or bearing as necessary. Some auto parts stores carry repair kits that have both the seals and bearings for specific types of water pumps.
    • 12 Reassemble the cooling system by replacing the water pump, pulley, fan belt, fan assembly and radiator hoses. Refill the radiator with the fluid.
    • 13 Start the engine to see if the water pump repair was successful. Check for leaks before you take the car out on the road.

Oct 18, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

There is a chirping type of sound coming from the serpentine belt on my 2002 Pontiac Grand Am V6 but the belt is good. I was told that it could be a pulley but how do I know which pulley is causing th

if your not sure which pulley is making a noise i usually get a long screwdriver and rest is close to the pulley shaft you can usually hear the bearing through the screwdriver if you rest your ear on the end of it but mind your hair and the moving parts
you should hear the bearing grinding if its gone

Sep 25, 2012 | 2002 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

How do I change a thermostat in a 2001 New Beatle VW

First you should drain the antifreez by opening the drain plug located by the lower radiator hose. Then take the upper radiator hose off. Then take the 2 bolts out that hold the housing on. Remove the housng and there is your thermastat. Accordind to VW they want you to put antifreeze on the o-ring I use RTV a little extra help sealing just don't put a lot on. The book says to put thermastat in housing and turn 1/4 turn to right. I'm not sure why but thats what it says. TIP If you close the drain plug now and put as much antifreeze in as you can makes it easyer to get air pockets out later. Mount your therrmostast housing back to block and tighten bolts. Again put as much antifreeze in that you can them put upper radiator hose back on. Again put as much antifreeze in that you can. Now come the hard part sometimes getting all the air out of the cooling system. Put the radiator cap on but loose run the engine till the cooling fan kicks on but keep checking the coolant level. WARNING ANTIFREEZE WILL GET ABOVE 200 DEGREES
both upper and lower radiator hoses should be hot and radiator full. If both hoses aren't hot you have an air pocket that you have to get out. To do this run the engine a couple minutes after the fan kicks on then turn engine off for 5 or 10 minutes and start over keep doing this till both hoses get hot and the air the fan is blowing is hot. Once this is doe yout ready to go. I hose off any antifreeze that got one car so if you see antifreeze under car you know something is leaking and not what was spilled. 254a047.pnga06a9b1.png

Oct 20, 2010 | Volkswagen New Beetle Cars & Trucks

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I need to know where the thermostat is located on the engine

follow top radiator hose to engine where hose stops thats where the tstats at.

Sep 03, 2010 | 1997 Cadillac DeVille

2 Answers

Where is the thermostate located on a 1998 cadillac catera 3.0 v6 engine

Hi Friend:

To Locate your thermastat, Open your Hood and look down at the top of your radiator.You'll see a Top Raditor Hose that goes from your radiator to your Thermastat Housing.

You'll see a Hose clamp on the Thermastat housing .

NOTE: before you loosen the Hose Clamp Make sure you your car is cooled down and remove your radiator cap to release any pressure that is in your system.

After the Hose is off you'll see a Domed shaped Housing that is your Thermastat Housing. Remove the Bolts that Hold the Housing on and Seals the Cooling System.From Leaking out of the Housing.

After removing the Housing you'll see your Thermastat .Just remove it and Clean up all old gasket Material so you can replace the gasket with your new one .But put in your new thermastat 1st.

Then make sure you seal the gasket with Gasket Glue. And Replace the Housing Bolts and Tighten up good and Sung.

Put back on your hose then clamp.And Refill your Radiator with Coolant.

This will get your new thermastat in and get you Ready to go .

Thanks for using FixYa Please let me Know how my Solution helped you.By Voting .

Thanks Again From: d_hubbs

Aug 22, 2010 | 1998 Cadillac Catera

2 Answers


First make sure engine is cool.
-Put drain pan under car, coolant will run out.
-Remove the TOP radiator hose that runs to the metal thermastat housing. Coolant will now be running out, try and direct it to the drain pan below.
-Remove the thermastat housing, BEFORE removing the thermastat make sure you TAKE NOTE at how it is situated in the casting.
- Take the thermastat housing and run a wire brush on the flat spot were the old gasket material is.
-Both mating sides of the thermastat housing MUST BE PERFECTLY CLEAN. There can not be any old gasket material left.
-Insatll new thermastat.
-Put a very light amount of PERMATEX orange high temp. silicone on BOTH sides of the new gasket.
-Put a small amount on bolt threads also.
-Now install thermastat housing, and bolts.
-Tighten bolts down a little at a time, alternating between the two, unitl till they are tight.
-Install the radiator hose, and tighten hose clamp.
-Remove radiator cap, pour in coolant, until it sits just below the radiator cap neck. This may take a little time as the system has some air in it.
-Install the radiator cap. Make sure you radiator overflow tank is filled properly.
-Remove the drain pan, make SURE ALL the tools use used are secure, and out of the engine bay.
-Start engine, and place your heater control to 'HEAT"
-Let engine run until the top radiator hose is hot, which means you thermastat has opened.
-Keep watching the engine temp AT ALL TIMES, we wnat to make sure there is no air in the system.
-Inspect for any leaks. Now when the top radiator hose is hot make sure the hose clamp is tight.
Please let me know how it goes.

Feb 11, 2010 | 1993 Buick Skylark

1 Answer

Removing the cooling fan & fan clutch assembly on a 4cyl. engine.

Ok...the main nut that you arre tring to take off to seperate the two..It is reverse you have to go the opposite way to take it off. You may also need to go and buy this tool...

9aad665.jpgNow this one here is for a Ford, but the one you need should look similar...Remember it is a Reverse Tread, so be careful, and Goodluck

Dec 15, 2009 | 2000 Isuzu Hombre

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