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Re: just installed new moter and it wont start how do
I'm not sure if you have 1 or more coil packs, but if you get a Chilton manual, it'll tell you how to check primary and secondary circuits on each of the coils. You can also take the coils out and take them to Autozone and they can check them for you. A quick and easy way would be to take the spark plug end of one spark plug wire off, hold the electrode with a pair of WELL INSULATED pliers,( Only touch the insulated handle, not the metal on the pliers) hold it about 1/4 inch from a good metal ground, then have someone try to turn the engine over. If you're getting spark, you'll definitely see the sparking from the electrode to the ground. FYI Only take one plug wire off at a time to prevent mixing them up and make sure you keep your hands and other body parts away from anything that could hurt you. There is also a control module that, if bad, can make it so the car won't start. This can also be checked at Autozone for free.
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If three coils plugged into ignition module, and one isn't firing. One coil fires two plugs, when you remove that one coil, use a test light at ignition module primary terminals, where that coil plugs in, have a helper crank it, if the light doesn't flash, replace the ignition module. You may want to disable engine so it won't start. I can't think what else it might be? I've seen this problem before, at that time, it turned out to be the ignition module that was faulty.
Most likely a failed crankshaft/camshaft position sensor. This will not set a code if the engine is not starting. One way to check it out is with a spark tester - an inexpensive tool. Have an assistant try to start the car warm while it is installed and check for a pulsing light. If none, there is no spark. Some helpful links - http://youtu.be/AMep7Rnjspk and http://easyautodiagnostics.com/mitsubishi/2.4L/ignition-coil-and-crank-sensor-tests-1
Hello, This code means your #4 cylinder is misfiring. There were 2 different coil systems used for the 2 engine styles that year. The top of the Intake manifold will need to be removed to provide access.
The 4 Valve engine used coil-paks and you need to mark the position of each sparkplug in relation to the post on the coil-pak. Check the terminals for corrosion, it may be fixed with a simple cleaning, or you may need a new coil-pak for this pair of cylinders. With most of the work already done, you may want to replace #4 sparkplug and the rest while the intake manifold is off.
The 2 Valve engine had a coil on each plug. Usually there is a 10,000OHM resistance from the top of the coil to the bottom terminal. You can take the coil into Autozone, Oreillys, or Advance and they may be able to test it. Again, now would be a good time to replace all the plugs while the intake manifold is off.
I had a similar problem, getting fuel, no spark... new coil pak, new sensors, still wouldnt start... no trouble codes. After about two months of racking my brains I finally just bit the bullet and purchased a refurbished ECM (PCM, ECC) from Autozone. Apparently there were two made for that year, had to re-order the right one. After I put it in and turned the key, there was a loud backfire and it started right up. Been running great ever since.
Yes start with the coil pak. There are three located on the front of the engine on the pass side, you probably know this. They are marked as to which cylinder each wire goes to, disconnect the wire for #5 cylinder, and if the engine misfire does NOT change, it is more than likely that Coil Pak. Replace it, and use dilectric grease on the two contacts when reinstalling it. Now, I have stumbled on this issue many times and if that does not cure the issue (I think it will), the coil module below the coil pack is probably bad...To remove this module, remove the coil paks, the electrical connector in front (has bolt holding it in) and I remember one bolt holding the module to the aluminum bracket.
Again, to be sure you can switch coil paks around to make sure it is a coil pak. When you switch the bad with a good, the misfire will follow the coil pak, if it does not it is the module.]
spray carb and choke cleaner down the intake if it starts its fuel related ,fuel pump or fuel pump relay. if it doesnt start on choke cleaner then its got no fire and that mite b crank sensor or cam sensor or module assebly or coil pak
The coil pak is usually the problem with these buicks. You can buy a new one at your local auto zone store for around $50.00 and you can install it yourself in about 20 minutes! It just might be a quick fix without paying a mechanic to diagnose it. If you decide to install a new coil pak remember to disconnect one side of the battery first and above all only replace one spark plug wire at a time. Please let me know if I can be of further help and thank you for using FixYa!
I just wrote and now that I got your second message this is exactly how the faulty coil pak acts.
The car will get you from point A to point B but when you get back in the car and try to start it, it just cranks over. But wait awhile and it will start again! For $50.00 try a new coil pak, chances are this just might solve the problem. And by the way, your check engine light is not connected to the coil pak, that is usually an emissions problem and you can deal with that later. Please let me know if this helps you and thank you for using FixYa!