How to replace master cynlinder - 1995 Dodge Ram 3500

Your brake booster is failing or the vacuum line connecting to the brake booster may be leaking.

Sounds like a bad coil. But a sensor like a module or an aging distributor cap and rotor are the most suspect. Take off the distributor cap and see if a white powdery substance is building up scrape it clean with a sharp knife... it may run for a few months best to replace the rotor and distributor cap

change faulty sparkplug or ht lead,check lead by holding sparkplug end near to engine nearly touching,have someone turn engine over whils checking for spark jumping,if spark present then not lead,change spark plug,if sparkplug ok then check pressure in cylinder, poss piston damage

That is an indication that one or more brakes locked. If it is only one, then not that bad. turn the rotor rebuild the caliper and install new brake pads.

BUT if more than one wheel was locked then you have trouble with the master cynlinder!

Hi, one of these should work, depending on where your coil is located:

A picture being worth a thousand words go to youtube.com and do a search for "GM lock cylinder". You will find several videos of this being done, and they all come out pretty much the same. Myself I have a dealer set the key on the thing so it will match my doors and trunk. This may well also be the time to replace the ignition switch, it is more than 10 years old.

under the bonnet on the end of the servo unit

Unless you are familiar with bleeding the break system I would not recommend this task. Sometimes it can be very difficult to get all the air out of the system especially if you do not bench bleed the Master. But If you'd like to try you have to break loose the brake lines that connect to the master and remove them. Then you have to remove the two nuts holding it to the brake booster which is usually black and round. When you remove it make sure you have taken out the old seal and you put back the new one. Now before you install the master you should fill it with fluid and push the shaft until fluid comes out the brake line holes. Once this has happened put something to plug it from leaking and install it on the car WITH NEW GASKET. Now install everything in the opposite order and bleed the brakes when your through... bleeding the master just helps you get less air in the system so its easier to do the initial bleed. SO EVEN THOUGH YOU BLEED THE MASTER YOU STILL NEED TO BLEED THE BRAKES FROM EACH WHEEL.

Had the same problem, car was misfiring on cylinder 3 and 4. replaced wires, plugs, and ignition coil. still misfired on the same cynlinders. turned out the main engine wiring harness plug in was coming loose. spent well over $150 on the unneccesary repairs and ultimately fixed the problem wit a $3 bag of wire ties to hold the plug in...

Here is a pic.

[IMG]http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh43/chuck943/DG1690A.gif[/IMG]



1 3A674 Power Steering Pump 2 3A714 Power Steering Pressure Hose 3 3C510 Power Steering Hose Bracket 4 3N824 Power Steering Pressure Switch 5 3504 Steering Gear 6 3A713 Power Steering Return Hose (Gear to Cooler) 7 3D746 Power Steering Fluid Cooler 8 3493 Power Steering Return Hose (Cooler to Pump