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remove the rear cover all the bolts except the top 1 just loosen that 1. Put a bucket under the rear diff and open the diff cover and drain out the fluid. clean and reseal the diff. remove the plug on the front of the diff and fill with the correct diff fluid until it is filled up to the hole and replace the plug, clean up and check for leaks. No leake = job is complete.
I really don't think you can dent the "Pumpkin" per se, since it's made of Cast Steel and that would mean its probably a crack... Do you mean the pumpkin 'cover' is dented and has a pin hole? Either way, if there is a crack/pin hole in the Diff, I'd be extremely careful.. And make sure the damage is minor since your dealing with something that can explode on you going down the road - causing the rear wheel's to lock up..!
Well, at this point, you're probably overdue for a fluid change anyway. Drain the rear differential, take the cover off, clean the surfaces, make a new gasket out of red RTV silicon (Here's how: run a bead all the way around the inner surface. Put on the differential cover, all the bolts, and then pull the cover back about a quarter of an inch. Let it dry. It is now a self-made gasket that will actually crush and hold tighter than if it is simply squashed in while wet.), refill the differential, and you should be good to go. A little oversimplified, but still, main steps!
If the yellow fluid is bright yellow, and has a foul smell when you smell it up close (put a little on your finger and see), then it is most likely gear oil in the differential.
The only yellow fluid at the center rear of the Jeep is the gear oil in the differential. It is probably due to a leaking seal at the pinion seal, (at the front of the differential where the drive shaft connects) which would then run down the differential housing and drip off the bottom. I described the smell before because gear oil is quite foul smelling so if you wet your fingers on the fluid and smell it you might get more idea that it is gear oil.
If it is the pinion seal the drip should be in the middle of your rear tyres.
Have a look at the pictures in this link that illustrate where I think the Leak is coming from...
There will be a small (1/2 or 3/4") plug usually with a resessed 1/2" square drive about but just shy of half way up the rear pumpkin cover. Remove this plug and put your small finger in if you can't touch the fluid it is low. Usually a 90 weight gear oil but check your mnfg. specs. This will come in a gallon jug with a pump or a quart bottle with a pointed top. Fill pumpkin to hole.
It's hard to say if any damage occured, but since it's ok now u might be in good shape.
Did you keep the oil you drained from the rear differential? would be a good thing to have as proof. The shop that did the work is responsible for sure, now the problem is going to be for them to recognize this fact
I'd go back to the shop and talk to them first, if nothing happens contact a lawyer. You can also use the Better Business Bureau to try to help
Time to drain and replace the fluid. The gear lube does not last long in these rear differentials. Use Valvoline 85-140 weight semi-synthetic. It will slow or even stop the leak and prevent future wear. Only replace the seals if the leak gets bad. Hint: the fill plug is 3/8" socket wrench, the drain is 3/4" socket wrench. Attach a short length of vinyl tubing to bottle to fill the differential.
Not wanting to be too general but at least trying to help I would suggest
looking under the back end, and specifically at the rear backing plates
and to the insides of the rear wheels, to see if you notice any fluids
dripping. If these are drum brakes, then you could very well have either
a wheel cylinder leaking brake fluid, causing the brake shoe linings to swell
up, or it could be a leaking axle seal, allowing differential gear lube out,
which will also cause the linings to swell, and minor braking will cause
that particular side to lock up.
If this vehicle has rear disk brakes, or was just recently changed from
rear drum brakes to rear disk brakes, it is possible that the proportioning
valve in the brake line was not changed to match with the disk setup.
Drum brakes operate at approximately ten pounds per square inch pressure (10 PSI)
whereas disk units operate at a lower pressure of about 2 PSI.
Just some things to look at. Some brake fluids have no smell, others
are very distinctive in odor, and differential gear lube has a very
distinct odor...not hard to miss once you've smelled it.