I have a 1992 Subaru Legacy, non turbo, front wheel drive. As I look at the vehicle it seems it may be easier to remove the engine rather than the transmission to replace the clutch. I'm hoping someone in this community has performed a clutch replacement on this type of vehicle, and can answer which I should remove; engine, or transmission?
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Re: Need to replace clutch
Hands down the trans...under optimal conditions I have done this repair in under an hour. If you were to remove the engine for this repair you are going to struggle aligning the input shaft from trans into new clutch plate when re-assembling. The trans is so light weight a jack is not entirely needed at all and no fluids, coolant or oil would have to be drained as well.If the exhaust Y pipe comes down without any bolt removal problems ,you are basically home free but do remeber to drive out the roll pins in the DOJ (transmission side axle joint)
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hi im presuming your old car is non turbo if so you will have to change a lot of parts over to make it work, you will have to replace entire engine loom, the ecu will need changed over then the fuel pump and all of the fuel lines will need to be replaced with the bigger turbo model ones to keep up also the trans will bolt strait up but will be the major weak point so swap over if possible.
I have a 93 legacy. Subaru's always run in front wheel drive until a sensor tells the computer the front wheels are not turning the same speed as the rear wheels( spining on ice or sand etc.). At that point all wheels will be driven though a clutch to the rear wheels. This is not good if the car needs to be towed with the front wheels in the air! This "all wheel drive" can be shut down for towing. Under the hood on my 93, there is an in line fuse holder on the pass. side of car behind the front strut mount. Open the top of the holder and it will be empty, put in a fuse (10 or 20 amp or close) , this completes a circuit and shuts down the rear wheels. I don't know if the your 97 has this in the same place, but it must have one some place. hope this can help you.
The flywheel does not need to be removed, the clutch actuator does. That is if you are only removing the engine. I have found with this engine, it is easier to remove both the engine and trans at the same time while bolted together, then separate the two on the floor. If you are going the separation route you will find the actuator near the starter with the clutch slave cylinder attached. This engine trans setup uses a pull type clutch. If you do not
disconnect the actuator that pulls the clutch away from the flywheel
before separating the engine from the trans there will be problems.
yes that is correct, remove glovebox , metal bracket in front ( mark which way round this bracket goes it will go back wrong and glove box wont fit ) , unplug electrical plug from heater motor, unscrew 3 bolts/screws from motor replace in reverse..30 min tops..
There is a belt tensioner on the front of the engine block that needs to be taken off and compressed(use a vise if possible) you can use a small allen key or something of similar size to lock piston intoethe compressed position . Then reinstall. I am assuming that the belt routing is correct but the compression of the tension cylinder needs to be done for proper belt tension.