I have a 1992 Subaru Legacy, non turbo, front wheel drive. As I look at the vehicle it seems it may be easier to remove the engine rather than the transmission to replace the clutch. I'm hoping someone in this community has performed a clutch replacement on this type of vehicle, and can answer which I should remove; engine, or transmission?
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Re: Need to replace clutch
Hands down the trans...under optimal conditions I have done this repair in under an hour. If you were to remove the engine for this repair you are going to struggle aligning the input shaft from trans into new clutch plate when re-assembling. The trans is so light weight a jack is not entirely needed at all and no fluids, coolant or oil would have to be drained as well.If the exhaust Y pipe comes down without any bolt removal problems ,you are basically home free but do remeber to drive out the roll pins in the DOJ (transmission side axle joint)
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hi im presuming your old car is non turbo if so you will have to change a lot of parts over to make it work, you will have to replace entire engine loom, the ecu will need changed over then the fuel pump and all of the fuel lines will need to be replaced with the bigger turbo model ones to keep up also the trans will bolt strait up but will be the major weak point so swap over if possible.
on Subaru vehicles there is a fuse under the hood near the rear (slightly to the left).it is all by itself .this fuse is used to put the car into front wheel drive only (subarus are all wheel drive ),check to see if this fuse is in place ,and if it is remove it and see what happens .....this may be the cause of your engine light as well or you may have 2 problems .
The '92 Subaru Legacy uses a distributorless ignition system. No adjustment is possible/necessary. The computer adjusts the timing continuously.
You can check the timing if you have a timing light. The spec for engines with a turbo charger is 15 degrees plus or minus 8 degrees at 700 RPM. Non-turbo engines are 20 degrees plus or minus 8 degrees at 700 RPM.
Subaru's are horizontally opposed engines. This means that the cylinder heads are actually pointed out toward the wheels.
If you look out close to where the engine and the inner fender meet, just a little in going back to the center, you will find two on each side on the 2.5 non-turbo. These have plug wires going to them.
On a turbo, the plugs are actually right in the side of the engine, going into the tops of the cylinder heads below the ignition coils which you remove first, to get to them. The same is true with the 3.0 engine.
There is a belt tensioner on the front of the engine block that needs to be taken off and compressed(use a vise if possible) you can use a small allen key or something of similar size to lock piston intoethe compressed position . Then reinstall. I am assuming that the belt routing is correct but the compression of the tension cylinder needs to be done for proper belt tension.