I have a 2005 ra crew cab 3.5L v6, it feels like the brakes are on when I select 4h. What is the cause?

front of engine 1st on left

google 2005 Nissan frontier V6 4.0 firing order

Ac/heater fans???? Only one fan an it's called a blower motor . Let's see if you can make heads or tail's of this .

Check the ''4x4 gear shift instructions'' on your sun visor it will tell you if you need to be in neutral or slowly moving when you are changing from 4h to 2h also make sure there is no load on the transfer case when you are trying to change and make sure the wheels are straight

Sounds like the transfer case is signaling the GEM OK, but best to check it.
Jack up and support the front of the truck with jack stands ( and chock the wheels, normal safety precautions )
Turn the key to the on position ( do not start ).
Turn the switch to 4H, after the clicks are done and the cluster indicates 4x4, check the front drive shaft.

If the front drive shaft will not turn, it could be a problem with the vacuum motor or the vac solenoids, or the mechanics in the front axle.

If the front shaft will still turn, the problem is in the transfer case.

I am leaning towards the vac motor on the front, the vac lines, or the vac solenoids.

After the test above, lower the truck, start the truck ( wheels chocked, person have the parking brake on, and foot on the brake, safety precautions ) , and have someone turn the ESOF switch to 4H. The vac motor is the disc on the front axle. This should move when 4H is selected.


You can check vac on the pink and blue lines.
Pink is 4WD vac on the hose.
Blue is 2WD vac on the hose.
Should be able to draw vac on the line, and have it hold with a mighty vac or other vacuum pump & gauge.

If you feel this rattle while driving at low speed or turning at low speed it is likely a worn out steering shaft coupler, it is very common.

usually this is caused by moisture rust build up in the drum since they dont breath well. do you not drive alot or is it wet there? best chance at a remedy is to periodicly remove drum and spray out w solvent. a film of grease on the axle flange and the drum hub helps too. make sure whell cylinder is not seizing or e-brake sticking causing them to drag,heat up, and bake the lining which will make them sing a high pich tune

There are two cam sensors and they are located on the back of each head in line with the intake cams.

You should have a hydraulic brake booster. a common failure item on fords and also would cause your symptom. the burning smell, I would go back and recheck all the brakes. Maybe a problem with the e-brakes, or an issue with the front or rear calipers. Possibly a damaged steel or high pressure brake line. Good luck.

hi i had same problem a few days ago brought to the dealership and turns out there is a clutch stop sensor that if it is not making contact will not allow you to start using the key part cost about $25 with labor it was $113 to be fixed at dealership seems it only last about 30-35k miles before breaking if yours is manual that could be your problem hope this helps

go to ford dealership and have them scan your truck with a scan tool