Question about Buick Century

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1995 Buick century was dyeing intermittently every few day and now it dies every 6 - 7 minutes at idle, mid speed, air on or off, warm or hot, gas cap on or off. A few suggested that it was the fuel filter, replaced it, no help, then the crank position sensor, I took it out and put it back because it make no sense to me that it is bad because it idles just fine, start great, runs perfect then about 6 - 7 minutes later it chokes and dies. No errors found on diagnostics at the mechanics garage either.

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  • Trade4 Jun 28, 2009

    1995 Buick century was dyeing intermittently every few day and now it dies every 6 - 7 minutes at idle, mid speed, air on or off, warm or hot, gas cap on or off. A few suggested that it was the fuel filter, replaced it, no help, then the crank position sensor, I took it out and put it back because it make no sense to me that it is bad because it idles just fine, start great, runs perfect then about 6 - 7 minutes later it chokes and dies. No errors found on diagnostics at the mechanics garage either.

  • Trade4 Jun 28, 2009

    I already cleaned it manualy, thanks for the response, but thats not it.

  • Trade4 Jun 28, 2009

    I ran it with the oxegen sensor unpluged, it still died, average 7 minutes, i then rand it with the IAC unpluged, it ran 7 minutes then dies, also added half tank of fuel before trying these 2 steps.

  • Trade4 Jun 29, 2009

    I ran it with the oxegen sensor unpluged, it still died, average 7 minutes, i then rand it with the IAC unpluged, it ran 7 minutes then dies, also added half tank of fuel before trying these 2 steps.

  • Trade4 Jun 29, 2009

    Did you mean the Crank positioning sensor, how would that cause it to quit every 7 minutes, there is nothing there that is related to a period of time, it would be more intermittent.

  • Trade4 Jun 29, 2009

    I don?t think that this is going to be easy, I appreciate all of the input and doing all that has been suggested, except the crank positioning sensor.

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Here is the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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All the sensors are reporting info to the ECM (Engine Control Module)

Since the problem occurs after the same amount of time - I would suspect a cold or broken solder joint in the ECM.

When it heats up - the components expand - and if there is a bad solder joint inside - the connection will be separated.

An ECM does not report its own error on a OBD scanner.

There is no user fix except replacement.

Thanks for using FixYa!!

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

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Really replace the cam sensor a bad one will show no codes Personal experience with a Buick their not that expensive . Tom

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

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Sounds like the the Oxygen sensor is stuck because after 6-7 minutes it goes into what is called closed loop you can confirm this by unplugging it and then starting it. the check engine light will come on when you do this.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • Luke  Luke
    Luke Luke Jun 28, 2009

    Even if you clean it, it still may be a problem. Thats why disconnect it than it will run on coolant temp sensor data.

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Hi

alt,, your running off the battery until it dies. it takes battery voltage for the alt to work, if the car starts you have enough volts to energize the alt, and it takes a working alt to keep the battery charged, the eng systems and accessories will drain the batt, therefore no more electric, no more go. or chek the fuel pump if shaking try the plugs. that will result in dying also. OR copy pastin this this article,it will give u solutions to ur prob.

  • Sometimes your car will just plain stop running if you have a faulty coil wire. I had this problem before where it didn't matter what time of day or the weather, it turned out to be a coil wire. Good luck!
  • I have an automatic '94 Nissan Sentra that would stop at the strangest of times (while it was being driven) at least once or twice a week. It would drive me crazy. I would take a turn at a light, and right in the middle of the turn, the *car's power would go out and stop. The only thing that would work was the brakes (thank God!). And then I had to quickly start it up again and pray that it would get me home. This was especially embarassing when I had a date in the car. Does this sound familiar? Well, I found out it was an electrical problem, as well as a fuel pump that needed to be replaced. Cost me a good $300 to fix. That was about 2 years ago so I'm sure prices haven't changed much.
  • My car used to just stop in the middle of the road, and then could restart no problems. It turned out to be that the alarm was old & faulty & the alarm was connected to an immobilizer which was a bit over-zealous - hence immobilizing in the middle of the road. The solution was simply to remove the alarm (the whole thing had to be removed though, it wasn't good enough just to turn it off).
  • Because the gasket plate (insulator) is worn out, this happened to my 1984 Honda Accord. Hope this helps.
  • I have a 96 dodge caravan and it woud do some of the same things. Sometimes it would not start in the morning wait a few min. and then it would start, sometimes it would just cut out while driving. The solution after all the relays were changed was a new computer. It was covered under a Chrysler 8 year warrenty. luckty me as it saved me $1000.
  • I had my 92 oldsmobile fixed it turned out to be torque converter needed to be replaced now the car works.
  • if your alternator goes, no more power the engine will stop...
  • This is a problem with a lot of vehicles that is overlooked for this reason: when a mechanic will hook up their computer and download the codes from the car's computer, the codes will generally tell you the problem the car or truck is having, if the car or truck kicked a code to the computer. Then the car or truck will run through a diagnostic system check and when the system check comes back fine and there are no problems then what?
Sometimes the problem can not be found by the computer and the reason is that when the car or truck runs it's system check, everything checks out fine! How can this be when the vehicle just stops running and then starts running after you pull to the side of the road and shut it down for a couple of minutes? The answer is simple. The ignition relay acts like a breaker in a house; when you have a relay that is weak, you will get this problem. But the computer will test it as good becouse it still is good. It's just weak, making it trip. The reason it will start again is because the relay will automatically reset itself after the relay cools and you are off and running again. To explain the type of reaction your car or truck would experience if this were to happen is as follows: The car or truck will just plain die! no warning! IT WILL NOT spit and sputter like it is running out of gas. Now, a module for the distributer will act the same way, but the difference is that the car or truck will not continue to start after a period of time. My suggestion is a cheap way to fiqure this out: purchase a continuity tester at any local hardware store (they are only a couple of dollars) and check the leads coming from the distributer mod. If it is good, it will light up the continuity tester. If it is bad, it won't. This only works if the car will not run at all because the mod will check good if it is weak as well as the ignition relay. Another way to fiqure this out is to go to a local junk yard and pick up a distributer mod and a ignition relay and it will cost you maybe the better part of $10.00 and you may be worry free as long as you own the car with the used part. But if you feel uncomfortable putting used parts into the ingnition system, then replace one or the other but not both and see which one works and then buy new.
  • Check your computer for trouble codes.Any problem will be stored in the computer,even if it is intermittent.
  • Usaully it is some type of fuel pick up problem, or fuel filter. It is possible the engine was slightly flooded, causing it to loose power. This all happend to me when i had an 1987 Vette. One day i was driving, then it just stalled when i was on a local road. Thank god not on a freeway, cause when it stalled, the steering became locked up. But i did what the manaul told me to do, if the engine has became flooded, push the accelerator to the floor and crank the engine. And that go me going again, and strait to the mechanics. It was all in fuel pick up and i need a new fuel filter.
  • Just replace the distributor cap and roter. I had same problem in my honda accord 98.
  • My car stopped all of the sudden while driving. When I tried to start it, it started but within seconds the engine would turn off. So my car had to be towed. The problem happened to be the ignition switch which eventually had to be replaced with a new one. It cost me about $600.
  • I had a 1990 Honda civic that would not start when the ambient temprature got high. I diagnose it and found that the base of the fuel pump relay situated just behind the dash had a poor solder connection.I resoldered the connection and it was the end of my problem. Just thought you could possibly have the same problem .
Good luck
  • Most common problem I have found is the idle contol value (aka. idle stepper motor). It sets the idle for the engine control computer. It bypasses the throttle plate. They get gummed up, I beleive from PCV fumes.
This has caused intermittent low idle/dying and start-up problems. The gum prevents it from responding fast enough. My Porsche had low cold idle. My Tahoe required tap on accelerator to start (usually flick of key). My Range Rover intermittent dying & inconsistent low idle. All idle control valve. FIX: Remove it and clean the spring/plunger with Carb cleaner. Also take cotton swab and clean seating area with cleaner. Sometimes replacement is necessary, mine have ranged from about $45 to $125 depending on vehicle and source. see www.partsamerica.com
  • I had a Vauxhall Carlton 2.0i which would stop for no apparent reason.
It was driving me mad. Just couldn't find the cause. In desperation, took it to the main dealer. He put in new plug leads, new distributor cap, new plugs, and 'tuned' it. It did exactly the same the next day. Back to the garage. In the end I found it myself. Locate your Fuel Injector Relay in your fuse and relay box. When your car stops, pull this relay out, and tap it sharply. Re-insert it, and if the car starts again, that's your problem. Apparently the inside circuit board breaks down, and a new relay is the only answer. Internittent faults like this are a total pain. In fairness the dealer gave me a full refund for the work that they had done. Hope this helps someone else. regards

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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