Jeep starts for 2-3 seconds and shuts off. fuel guage does not work, volt meter does not work parking lights blow fuse when turning them on, windows do not work, power locks move real slow or not at all, dash lights do not work. This all started last night. Jeep ran fine then turned off and went to start and this all happened.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
An expert that has over 10 points.
An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.
Re: 98 cherokee starts for 2 seconds and shuts off.
Sounds like a serious short and or blown fuse. Check battery voltage. Move on to underhood fuse block. Check all fuses. Move on to cabin fuse block. Check all fuses. Check fuel cut-off switch. Reset switch. If you still have the problem and the battery is good than you have a short in your starter, alternator , or fuel pump. I won't go into lighting cause I figure you can tell a bad bulb from a good one. If your battery voltage is 12v + with the engine off your ok. If you can start the engine, check the voltage at the battery again, it should now be around 14v. If not , go to the positive terminal on your alternator and check the voltage there. If you read 14+ at the alternator and not at the battery , then the wiring in that circuit needs to be changed. A quick alternator test is to disconnect the negative terminal of your battery while the engine is running. If the car dies then your alt is bad. If you read lower than 12v on your battery. disconnect it, add water unless its maintenance free., charge it on a charger or preferably get a new one. Go and feel your starter for excessive heat. A short will also heat up your negative battery terminal
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
are you reading the meter right ?, less that 1 volt?
did you crank the engine and read,many car dont start the pump unit cranked.
it must be 12v or 11v if very cold and bettery volts sag a bit (1v) cranking. that is how you do this.
on some jeeps (i dont do liberty) the ASD works like this.
the 2 second rule.
TAKES 2 people to test a JEEP.
one to crank and one to measure.
the PCM allows 2 seconds. of full spark and injections
if it sees errors,. it kills every thing, spark and fuel.
You have high resistance (bad connection) somewhere on the circuit. When you crank the starter, available voltage drops thus increasing required amperage (ohms law) and blows your fuse. First check your battery terminals/cables. They must be tight, clean and the cables can't look green like the statue of liberty. Beyond that, you will need to visually inspect and test each connection of the circuit via "voltage drop" (google it) with a digital volt meter ($15 at walmart).
There are several fuses involved. I need to know which one(s). As for the taillights, the primary power source is 20A fuse 17 in the power distribution center. The tan/blk wire connects to the headlamp switch which, in park position, applies +12 volts through 10A fuse 7 in the junction block to the left tail light. The headlamp switch, in park position, also apples +12 volts through 10A fuse 23 in the junction block to the right tail light.
I need to know which fuse is blowing the instrument lights so you will have to follow up
your stop light switch is broken and shorting out hence it will not start in park ,or you have a fitted the wrong bulb in one of the back lights like a twin connector bulb in place of a single or visa versa ,which is blowing the stop light fuse ,with this fuse blown your stop light switch isnt working hence you cannot get it out of park .also flasher could be using the same fuse as the stop lights .side lights should work but if wiring is being shorted out then anything is possible
battery charged, fuses good, F10 is RR. park
trailer wring hacks? (inspections find that) and collision damage there RR.
does RF work with RR fails>? both ends of car have park and blink.
I avoid Tail word for that one fact.
if you scan the PCM with a scan tool, are there DTC errors.
not scanning makes work 10x harder.!
"rear right tail light and blinkers do not work."
both are dead? "and"
then turn off parks and blinks start working?
maybe the parks and blink wires shorted to gether.
what does not work mean, dead, or stuck on?
all key facts in diagnosis. all that.
i have 2007 GC FSm.
there are 4 elements (lamps actual there)
park is seperate from blink , totally.
the MIP module under hood drives turns off sperate drivers.
LF, RF ,LR, RR. so RR is bad. and not related to front like old cars.
all park lines go to a single point, the park relay 7 output.
so if something shorts to park all parks mess up.
each line has a fuse. so each can die by self.
There is only 1 park relay #7
so my question is, do any other park lamps mess up.
you said the blinks and parks (tail) do not work.
so? what about all park lamps. side and front.
if only RR fails, no other symptoms, i concur, bad ground. there.
a volt meter can measure bad grounds
with wire to battery neg,
and red meter at ground on lamp base.
if not 0v, or less than (0.5v) a 1/2 volt, its bad.
Full instrumentation pack (four
ancillary guages plus tachometer) - with volt meter & oil
guage & water temperature guage standard in addition to
WARNING LIGHTS: High beam, rear
window demist on, turn
signal / hazard light, alternator fail, lights on, park-brake
washer fluid low, radiator coolant low, cruise control
low oil pressure.
AUDIBLE WARNING CHIMES: low
on, low alternator charge, low oil pressure, high coolant
and brake failure.
Trip Computer standard
consumption figures, distance to empty, average speed &
I found this site, no mention of the fan in a cylinder, but I'll let you figure it out. Hope this helps. http://www.trueblueford.com/ed_pages/EDfalcon_fairmont.html
You can check fuses using a test light or (better) a volt meter. This is done by probing the back opening at each end of each fuse while the negative lead of the meter is connected to a good ground. any fuse that shows power only on one side has failed. Some fuses will only show power with ignition on. Check all grounds as well, sounds like you may have a loose connection somewhere or a bad control module (why clicking was heard)