Can i hot wire to by pass switch in a 1989 cadilac

You can't, without a bypass kit and the orginal key or resister value to use in the bypass kit. The theft system on the truck is a VATS system that uses a resister in the key that must match the resister value in the computer to start the car. No resister match, no start. The kit eliminates the resister key by hard wiring the resister permanently in the vehicle. You still will need the key to mechanically unlock the steering column and turn the ignition cylinder.

It should be easy to hot-wire the switch. There is a hot power-in wire, a run wire at the "on" position, and a start wire at the start position. That is all you need. First locate the power wire, twist it with the run wire. Now the ignition should be on, the dash warning lights and gauges on. Now if you take the start wire and touch it to those two twisted together, the engine should crank over and start.

This is a quick way to get it started, but you have to cut the wires. If you pull off the ignition switch connector, you might be able to use short jumper wires from the hot wire to the run position, and one to the start wire. Then if you get a new key and lock cylinder later, all you have to do is to plug back in the switch connector.

There isn't one. The 2000 DTS has a VATS security system. The car has to have the right key in the ignition for the system to turn on the fuel pump and the ignition system. Without those, the car no run.

trace your wires could be broke in two best advice is to replace the wire

run a hot wire to + on coil and try it again as it could be a faulty ignition switch

There is also an ignition relay, a coil, and the wiring harness it's self. Check to see if the ignition can be by passed by using a test light first to find the hot side of the ignition fuse. See if there is power there it should be constant all the time but it only makes the connection when you turn the key. If it does it's probably your relay. You are aware that there is two fuse blocks for the ignition. If there is no power to either fuse block i would buy another ignition switch (you can always take it back).. and if still nothing i would replace the harness.. hope i could help. oh one other thing check the ignition module.

OK, guessing you know your truck. Without a pressure switch the pumps would run all the time the ignition is on. do they run ok without pumping? (pull one out of the tank). Do you have a relay that the tank selector switch activates? Most cars run the hot lead active, and the pumps run by applying the return lines. Your problem could be in the wiring from the pump back to the negative.

If your ignition switch is bad in your steering column, and the starter does not engage when the key is turned forward, then this is a quick fix for you.
BE SURE THE BATTERY IS DISCONECTED BEFORE YOU START WIRING. You can run some heave gauge (18 plus, and about 12 feet of it) wire to the top mount and the rear mount on the starter solenoid (one end of the wire to each, making a loop) Run the wire into the interior of the truck, and then install a toggle switch in the loop of wire. You will still have to turn on the key to engage the motor, but it will not start until you flip the toggle. That should get you by until you can replace the ignition switch in the column.

Normally on chevy ignition modules when they go bad, they will quit when they get hot & after cooling down will work again, so when you have them tested they have cooled down. I would try changing it & see if it wont fix it.

use a test light the wire from the battery should be hot all the time the wire that goes to the solenoid should be hot when the key is turned over to start and the wire going to the coil should be hot when the key is in run.