Question about 2002 Dodge Intrepid
Have done this job before stan cather and dennis weid are both complete idiots their answers show they have never done this job before follow the steps from glchristie that is the exact procedure
Posted on Jan 06, 2016
CAUTION After disconnecting the negative battery cable, wait 2 minutes for the driver-s/passenger-s air bag system capacitor to discharge before attempting to do any work around the steering column or instrument
Remove the instrument panel by removing or disconnecting the following:
Shifter knob Allen screw Both instrument panel end covers Using a trim stick tool, gently pry upward on the shifter bezel; then, disconnect both wiring connectors and a light bulb socket connector; then, remove the socket.
Center bezel using the trim stick Heater/air conditioning housing assembly control switch and the traction control switch wiring harnesses Bezel from the vehicle Two left side console side cover screws, pull the cover outward and remove from the vehicle Lower glove box door; the 2 screws are located at the right console side cover, pull outward and remove it 2 bracket screws and the 2 inside the console bin; then, remove the console 2 center lower instrument panel nuts 4 steel reinforcement-to-lower instrument panel cover bottom bolts 16-way DLC from the reinforcement left floor duct/silencer pad screw and the pad Steering column shrouds Shift interlock cable at the ignition switch Column wiring The under column duct section Left panel air conditioning outlet duct The 4 brake pedal support bracket-to-column mounting bolts Lower the steering column Heater/air conditioning housing and the Air bag Control Module (ACM) harness connectors then, the 2 ground eyelets from the floor tunnel near the bulkhead Using a trim stick, carefully, pry out on the left and right A-pillar trim moldings and slide them rearward to remove them.
3 right side cowl panel screws and the panel 3 left side cowl panel screws and the panel Remove the right side under dash silencer and pad 2 right side radio antenna and amplifier harness connectors Left side junction block and Body Control Module (BCM) harness connectors 8 instrument panel-to-chassis screws Pull the instrument panel rearward Instrument panel from the vehicle with the help of an assistant ischarge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
WARNING The air conditioning lubricant used in this system absorbs moisture readily. Do not leave any portion of the system open for any long period of time.
Air cleaner hose and the air distribution duct Heater hoses-to-dash panel spring type fasteners and the heater hoses from the heater core. Plug the openings to prevent coolant spillage. Refrigerant lines-to-expansion valve nut and separate the refrigerant lines from the expansion valve. Plug the openings to prevent contamination. 3 heater/air conditioning housing assembly-to-chassis nuts from the engine compartment 2 defroster duct screws and the duct Heater/air conditioning housing assembly-to-dash panel nuts and screws 4 rear seat heat duct nuts and the duct Rear seat heat duct elbow push-pin fastener Electrical connector from the heater/air conditioning housing assembly Pull the heater/air conditioning housing assembly rearward and remove it from the vehicle 2 heater core-to-heater/air conditioning housing assembly screws Heater core from the heater/air conditioning housing assembly
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
first off, disconnect your battery for at least 30 min before touching any plugs or harnesses. next, bleed your A/C and disconnect the quick connects that go inside the firewall. drain your coolant, and disconnect hoses from firewall. note a certain bolt with nut on it that is going to the inside of the firewall, you'll need to take that off when you get to the airbox inside the truck which houses your heater core. next, take off the pillar handles next to the windshield, then pop off the plastic dash panel with defroster vents. there are a few bolts up there that need to be taken out all the way across. next, take off your glove box. remove plastic below the drink carrier. there are 2 bolts there on left and right once you remove the plastic. there's a yellow or red AirBag plug which you may or may not need to disconnect later. next, drop down the whole steering wheel column. 4 bolts I believe. look up under there on both sides, you will see a 2inch piece of tubing that goes from each side of the truck. your dash and everything you see in front of you is connected to that tube. find on each side of the truck where that tube is mounted to the body with brackets. There are 2-3 bolts on each side I think. When you get those out, and the steering wheel is sitting in the seat or on the floor, the whole dash and panel should tilt and lay on the seats. there are wires from your a/c controls and radio which you'll have to disconnect and some various other wires as well. I also think you'll have to disconnect a harness plug with bolt in it on the drivers side. (white) after you've done all that and don't have the dash and panel in a bind with wire hangups you can now get to the air box. I don't remember how many bolts, but don't forget the one in the engine bay going to it also. get the box unbolted, then roll it up, remove 2 clips holding the heater core in, replace heater core and do this whole process backwards. Hopefully you didn't lose any screws or bolts. charge your a/c, replace coolant, make sure all plugs are connected before connecting power. Should save you $400-$500 in labor.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
Sorry, nope. You have to get in there and tear it out. OR you can by an electric heater from Habor Fri**t and set it in the seat next to you. Plugs into the cig. lighter plug.
Posted on Oct 17, 2009
Why was radiator replaced?Did it have heat before ? If it was plugged, the heater core may also be plugged. Try flushing it with a water hose in both directions. I dont know why the botton radiator hose would be cold, the radiator should be a uniform temp and the air coming through the radiator should be HOT, when the engine is at operating temp. What condition was the old coolant? if it was rusty, the water pump may have lower flow than normal.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
SOURCE: 2002 Dodge Intrepid has no heat
Radiators do not "go out". They leak or they don't... that's it. You wasted money changing a radiator if you aren't loosing coolant. The thermostat (~$10) is all you needed to change.
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
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