New battery and alternator checked. Also checked fuse 21, it's Ok.
SOURCE: alternator rebuilt tested ok still will not charge battery
hi im sorry to tell you this never ever disconnect the battery while the car is running , could cause surge which will blow the alternator at best at worst it could fry the ECU (computer) WHY would you want to disconnect battery while the engine is running or is there something im missing here?
SOURCE: 1996 ford f250 diesel truck alternator
has anyone thought about the regulator, i think that its built into the alt, replace it and then see if the prob continues, you can get a pass on the alt test and still have a bunk regulator
SOURCE: Battery not charging, new alternator, checked
A melted plug typically means a loose connection. Maybe one of the pins in the connector got loose and the poor connection created heat. If there are only a couple of wires to the plug and harness I would cut out the plugs and use good solderless connectors to repair. I wil be a lot less expensive than a new harness. If it is just damage to the plug going to the alt you can get replacements for them.
SOURCE: not fire from alternator to battery alternator
this is not a fuse problem, replace the large connector to the alternator, the Ford dealer can supply this, there are numerous Ford bulletins about this connector overheating and giving a no charge condition
SOURCE: My car battery keeps getting
You need to put an AMP Meter in series with either battery cable, and then look for a circuit not timing out,after you remove the key.
May take 20 minutes.
Anything over 40 Milli-Amps is too much
Start pulling fuses one at a time, to find circuit, then you need a wiring schematic of complete vehicle to find problem.
I always purchase shop manuals and wire diagrams, as soon as I buy a new vehicle. Will need owners manual -for fuses.
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