I purchased 3 cans of freeze 12 and one can of the ester lubricant alonh with the 7 inch hose and various fittings. Nothing was provided to guide the installation. The web site for the freeze 12 suggests changing the drier//accumulator, evacuating the system, and perhaps installing a high pressure relief. I was also told the simply connect the fittings to the low side and charge the system.
Is there a clear explanation to install Freeze 12? Thanks
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Check this procedure:
1. Raise and support the truck on jack stands. Tap the side of the
freeze plug, using the long screwdriver and a hammer. Place the
screwdriver blade at the outside edge of the freeze plug and tap gently
to push the side of the plug into the block. The idea is to rotate the
freeze plug like a revolving door.
2. Grab the freeze plug with the pliers and pull it out. Clean the circumference of the hole of all dirt using a rag.
3. Place the new freeze plug in the hole as far as it will go. Use a 1/2
inch drive socket that fits snug inside the freeze plug and use the
appropriate extension to allow tapping with the hammer. Tap the freeze
plug into the block evenly until its outer edge is 1/16 inch below the
surface of the block.
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You have to make sure the plug is fitted properly. If it's popping out, it is not because of to much pressure, it's because of improper installation. I see it time and time again. Not cleaning the area and preparing the plug accordingly. rust, corrosion, improper installation all lead to the plugs popping out. If you paid take it to someone who will do it right. If this was a home job I suggest a complete Freeze Plug Installation Kit and clean the plug hole completely with sandpaper and see it fits permanently.
1. Write down your radio code if it has some anti-theft device.
2. Allow the engine to cool down for about 3-hours before the start of this operation.
3. Open the hood, and disconnect the battery negative terminal. Tuck the negative terminal aside so it won't flip back.
4. Locate the radiator drain-plug (plastic wing-nut) on the lower back side of the radiator, and turn it backward to remove it.
5. Place a container under the radiator to catch the anti-freeze coolant.
6. Remove the radiator cap.
7. Once the coolant is drained, trace the upper radiator hose to where it ends on the engine(thermostat housing), and remove the hose with a medium size plier.
8. Loosen the three bolts holding the thermostat housing. Gently take out the housing.
9. Notice the position the thermostat was previously installed.
10. Replace the old thermostat, and the o-ring around it. Clean its mounting area. Notice that the o-ring fits around the thermostat.
11. Replace the thermostat housing and torque the three bolts to 78-inch pounds. Replace the upper hose.
12. Replace the radiator drain-plug.
13. Re-use the antifreeze coolant and be careful no dirt goes in with the coolant into the radiator.
14. Return the radiator cap.
15. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
16. Start the car and check for leak.
Important: Anti-freeze coolant harmful to the environment. Return unwanted anti-freeze coolant to collection areas.
the main vacuum hose is at the main intake frame at the top of the engin
but the vacuum lines for the vacuum systeme are more than one which one you main. any way use this methode to check for leaking hoses. A small piece of vacuum hose (1/4-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the
"hissin'g" sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.
(It's quite common for vacuum hoses,especially those in the emissions system, tobe color coded or identified by colored stripes molded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thickness, collapse resistance and temperature resistance.
When replacing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material.
Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle.
If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation.
When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks and thehose where it fits over each fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. . Warning: When probing with the vacuu hose stethoscope, be careful not to
come into contact with moving engine components such as drivebelts, the cooling fan, etc.
check the service ports if they are screw type it is r 12 if they are quick connect type it is 134a yes you canconvert it i do it all the time
go to autozone or oreillys and get a retro kit (a little box of fittings) about $7 3 cans 134a and ester oil vacuum system down with pump for 30 min add 2 oz oil and 2 1/2 cans 134a.
on this old of a car it should be leak tested to find any leaks,a retrofit is possible but doing it right is lots of labor and parts . The right way is to replace the compressor and reciever /dryer to 134a compatable units, and replace all seals to 134a compatible ones and flush the whole system with cleaner and pull a vacuum on it twice to remove all air put the right amount of the correct oil in and then recharge. That all most likely costs more than this vehicle is worth. The cheap way is to flush out the old oil and refill with the right stuuf for 134a and put adapter fittings on it and charge it up. If it works for one season sweet! If not your not out much $$