I had a strap break while driving and it wrapped around my drive shaft. the metal hook on the strap severed the tube that runs along side of the gas tank as it spun. the tube connects to a box next to the gas tank and then runs all the way up to where you put the gas in. it does not appear to have any wires or liquid in it. what is this tube and how dangerous is this issue? any help would be greatly appreciated. thank you!
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Re: Severed tube that runs along the gas tank...
Just replace / repair the tube, it sounds like your "Vent" pipe - it's a pipe running basically from the top of the tank to the filler cap, when you put gas in it will allow the fuel to "breathe out" instead of making an air lock and splashing out of the filler. If you leave it like it is it might spill fuel, then you're driving a potential firebomb.
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This is a hard problem to describe, I know, and I will toss out a few possibilities. If the noise occurs when the car is accelerating, it can be motor mounts, or carriage mounts on front-wheel drive vehicles. Transmissions can bang into gear. Drive shaft u-joints can bang before they fail. C-V joints in front wheel or 4 wheel drive units can bang when worn out.
The exhaust system can break loose and bang on the frame. Brake calipers can rock in their mounts and transmit sound. Tie-rod ends can make a knocking noise on every bump you hit. There were recalls on gas tank straps for some Ford made units, so a loose gas tank can bang.
Put the truck on service ramps or a lift. Pump out any fuel in the tank. Remove the plastic cover from the tank straps, 10mm socket. Unhook filler and vent hoses. Unhook fuel lines, electrical wires and vacuum lines at the T connector. Support the tank with a jack and loosen the strap nuts with a 15 mm wrench, then lift the strap hooks out of the notch in the frame. Once loose, work the tank out. Dropping the drive shaft would make it easier.
It is installed in the fuel from the top of the tank so the fuel tank has to come out. You have to disconnect the electal plug, the fuel lines, the filler tube and EVAP hose and unbolt the fuel tank straps. On some vehicals pulling the drive shaft is a must some it just makes it a lot easyer. The sending unit is where the fuel lines and wires go into the tank.
remove battery cables. jack car up adn place on jack stands so the rear whells are off the ground. remove real drive shaft. on the bottom of the tankmaybe a skid plate. unbolt it. on the side of the tank buy the driveshaft tunnel is a metal sheild. it is held on by pop stars remove stars and sheil. at the back of the tank is the vent and filler hose. remove those. place a floor jack under the tank. unbolt the 2 straps. remove the 2 straps. lower the tank 4-6 inches. you have to unhook the purge line from the tank. it is a squeeze fitting. lower the tank 4-6 inches more. tremove the electrical connector. you will need quick disconnect tools. remove the 3 feul lines. GAS will leak out. lower the tank to the ground and slide out from under truck. remove any debris from the tank. you heed a aluminum flat drive bar and brass mallet. brass and aluminum will not spark. there is a metal ring that compresses the gasket. there is a plastic tang open.have helper hold it open. you need to move the outside metal ring counterclockwise till the ring is released. hit the metal flat edges of the ring. alternating on them until the ring unseats. pull the pump up on an angle replace pupm. good luck
I had the same problem as this. There is a pipe that runs from the petrol tank around and up into the air inlet shaft under the spare wheel well. I am not sure exactly what it does I think it has an expansion valve on it. There is a join in this between two tubes that join. This is a simple piece of fuel tube with an internal dimension of say 5mm. If you feel your hand into that air shaft there, locate the fuel tube feel your way along the pipe, you will find the join. Just pull the old one out and put a new piece in. Very simple. really
On one end of each strap there should be a bolt. It's possible that there was an "insulator" between the strap and tank that deteriorated and fell out. It's not essential that it be replaced but likely you can tighten those bolts to take up some of the slack. Don't crank down too tight or you may distort tank.
If the line leaking is plastic then it's not a brake line it's a fuel line. If the truck runs then it is most likely the return fuel line. If you can't get to it without dropping the tank then that's what you'll have to do, but you shouldn't need to remove it completely.
It is best to siphon out as much gas as possible. Before you removing the bolts take 2 pcs. of smooth fence wire or even 12ga. copper wire and make a cradle to support the tank, cut the wire at least 2 ft. longer than what it will take to go from the frame to the drive-shaft.
At a point about 1/3 in from each end of the tank lupe one end of the wire through holes in the frame and twist it a couple of times, then run it under the tank and around the drive shaft and twisting the ends a couple of turns.
After you get all the bolts out of the tank supports if you don't have room to repair the line you can loosen the wires around the drive-shaft and allow the tank to drop down some[this is why you need the wires 2 ft. longer]
After the repairs which will probably be replacing the rubber fuel hose that attaches the line to the tank,[I'd replace both of them] tighten the wires around the drive-shaft and replace the tank bolts. Remember to get all your bolts started before you tighten any,