Question about 1998 Isuzu Rodeo
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are two drain plugs on the bottom of the pan. remove the lower one to drain the trans fluid. To refill, use a pump and pump the fluid into the upper drain plug until it seeps out and re-install the plug, similar to refilling a manual trans.
Once this is done, Start the vehicle and run it for about 3 minutes, shifting through all gears (do not drive vehicle Remove the upper drain plug and let any excess fluid drain out. Done. This is as per Mitchell OnDemand.
Posted on Aug 14, 2008
You didn't say whether you had a V6 engine or a 4cyl. Here is the procedure for a V6.
It sounds like he moved the cam shaft independently of the crankshaft or other camshaft so you will need to do all these procedures:
1. Turn the crankshaft until the mark on the spocket is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing (the mark is on the driver's side at 90 degrees to the sprocket itself).
2. Back off the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/8 turn to ensure the pistons aren't at top dead center. This gives the valves room to move without hitting the piston.
3. Turn the passenger's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place with the alignment mark on the camshaft pully is pretty close to being lined up with the mark on the engine head.
4. Turn the driver's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place but this won't be perfectly lined up with the mark but will be about an 1/8 turn off from the mark. Then line it up by hand.
5. The idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys should be installed on the engine but the tenioner pulley adjuster (it is a little cylinder with a rod coming out of it that is held in place by 2 bolts) should be removed.
6. Place the new belt on the crankshaft first. Be sure the arrows on the belt point in a clockwise direction. If you have a belt with lines and dots then the lines will line up with all markings that you have lined up together. The dots should line up at the 270 degree point on the crankshaft (opposite of the lines and the markings).
7. Loop the belt around the tensioner pulley, around the passenger's side cam, under the waterpump, around the driver's side cam, and finally around the idler pulley. Check all alignments.
8. Put the tesioner adjuster in a vise and squeeze it together until you can place a small drill bit or allen wrench through the holes to keep it compressed.
9. This is the tricky part. You will need to install the tensioner adjuster and that will require some moving of the belt to allow enough play to get the adjuster in place. This may move the passenger's side alignment. If so, you will need to try it again. I find that if you move passenger's side alignment mark clockwise by one tooth of the sprocket, then when you go to put the tensioner in place it lines up. You may find other tricks to overcome this challenge.
10. Once you think you have everything lined up. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft sprocket 2 full turns. Listen closely and feel for any hard resistance as you do this to determine if the pistons are hitting the valves. If you believe they are hitting each other thenrepeat the adjustment procedure. Not doing this can ruin the valves or more.
11. If everything seems OK. remove the drill bit or allen wrench from the tension adjuster. Perform step 10 again for one final check.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
Remove low pressure and high pressure hoses (this one could be hard to break loose). You might want to have an oil pan handy, to capture the oil. Disconnect electrical sensor. Remove the bolt that holds belt tension adjustment plate. And finally remove the bolt that holds the pump in place. It is bolted from the back and located at the right lower corner of the pump if you are facing the front of the car. Remove the pump assy. I could not remove belt pulley at home, no matter how hard I tried. Ended up taking it to an automotive shop and they removed it in no time, using one of those "pneumatic impact guns". Assemble new pump. Fill the reservoir with PS oil. Make sure both of the front wheels are off the ground, start the engine and slowly spin the steering wheel back and forth for about 5 minutes or untill screeching sound stops and the liquid in the reservoir stops foaming. That will bleed any air that is in the system. Don't go all the way to the end of stroke. Good luck.
Posted on May 09, 2009
First their are two different front axles in 1996 troopers. Isuzu changed the 4wd system from auto lock hubs to drive control axle.auto lock hube are on the older trooper's with the light and wiper switches on the dash. The same way to change both. Auto hub remove the six hex. screws slide off the hub remove the sirclip from the driveshaft. Newer hub has 6 alan-head screw's again remove them then the hubcap then the sirclip on the shaft and slide off the round spacer. Next 4 bolts from the lower balljoint and the brake's. Pull out the hub until it clear's the shaft remove the inner boot clips slide the inner boot out the shaft. Clean the grease from the end of the axle then with your fingernail feel along any of the 3 tracks in the axle and near the outer end of the track you will find a wirelike split ring slide a screwdriver under the ring and lever it off . Pull out the drive clean off the grease. You will see a sirclip on the end of the joint remove it and slide off the joint. You can replace either boot from that end. The outer joint is held on with a snap ring on the shaft inside the joint and is not easily removed need a hammer and drift to drive off the end and when removed its hard to get the snap ring on the shaft back into its place.You can change both boots from this end as well. Cheers
Posted on Sep 28, 2009
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