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If you are repacking front wheel bearings on a car with disc brakes,you will want to buy wheel bearing grease suitable for the higher heat generated by the disc brakes.Any name brand wheel bearing grease will work as long as it is rated to be used on vehicles with disc brakes.
TIP: Do not wash the wheel bearings in solvent to clean them if they are in good shape and have no metallic particles in the existing grease.Just repack using the new grease to push the old grease out of the bearings.After wiping the hub clean add some clean grease evenly into the hub,install the repacked bearings and new seals and JUST SNUG the nut which adjusts the bearing and install a NEW cotter pin.
If it's a "squealing" sound - check the power steering fluid. If it's more of a grinding sound - then the wheel bearings were not properly "packed" with grease. Note - the grease needs to forced into the bearings by hand while rotating the bearings. I had a this problem myself when a "mechanic" just smeared some grease around the bearings.
pull wheel remove grease cap undo carter key remove nut pull off rest of hub take bearings frt and rear out of hub clean old grease from bearings check bearing for defect install in revers order remender to install new grease in new bearings lots of grease and u will need new seals for same front and rear
First remove the bearing cap. This is a press fit and to remove
it grab it with your Channelocks and work it back and forth until it
pops off. Be careful not to crush it as you remove it.
cap is off you will see a cotter pin, Remove the cotter pin and remove
the retainer ring. If your vehicle has a castellated nut, you will not
have a retaining ring.
Using your Channelocks or adjustable wrench, remove the nut from the spindle.
Now remove the outer wheel bearing and washer and lay it aside.
Slide the rotor or drum off the spindle. This may be difficult, but it
will come off. Don't worry about hurting the grease seal; we're going to
replace it anyway.
Now that the rotor or drum is off, use a suitable tool to remove the grease seal and take out the inner wheel bearing.
Using some of the rags wipe all the old grease from inside the hub.
Now we need to remove the bearing races from the hub. Take a punch with
a flat narrow tip and place it on the back of the race. Most hubs have
gaps in them to expose the back of the race to make removal easier. Tap
the race out, alternating from side to side so it comes out evenly and
doesn't get cocked in the hub. Once it's out, flip the rotor or drum
over and do the same for the other race.
When both races are out, clean the inside of the hub with some rags.
Also make sure the spindle is clean as well. You can even use some
carburetor cleaner to do a really good job of cleaning. From this point
on cleanliness is important. You do not want any dirt, sand or metal
chips inside the hub.
Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel
bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race
driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make
sure you drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race
driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it
started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush
with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the
way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change
when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually
Do the same for the other race.
don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a
glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel
bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out.
Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out
the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't
just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole
bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other
Now that everything is nice and clean, let's put the new races and bearings in.
one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing
grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver,
select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you
drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race driver,
use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making
sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use
your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure
it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's
seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.
Do the same for the other race.
If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand.
Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the
wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing
out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it
coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole
bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure
until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat
this for the other bearings.
Now that we have the races installed and bearings packed, we can
put everything back together. Starting with the inner bearing put a bed
of grease on the surface of the race and then push the inner wheel
bearing into it. Take the new grease seal and tap it into place, don't
bend or distort it. You can use a small block of wood to help.
Put a coating of grease inside the hub between the two races and on the
spindle -- too much is better than too little. If any moisture should
happen to get inside, the grease will keep the metal from rusting.
Slide the brake rotor or drum straight onto the spindle. It should
slide on easily. If it doesn't, the bearing is cocked a little. Slide it
off and make sure the bearing is sitting flat and try again.
Once it's on, grease the outer race and slide the outer wheel bearing
on. Slide the washer on. The washer will probably have a tab that will
align with the spindle, make sure that you line them up when you put it
Place the nut on the spindle and tighten it by hand until
it won't go anymore. Spin the rotor or drum a few times back and forth
and then tighten the nut more by hand. This insures that the bearings
are seated. Do it a couple of times until you can't get it any tighter
Now tighten the nut ¼ turn, no more than 16
foot-pounds. If you have a castellated nut, line it up with the hole
going through the spindle. Install a NEW cotter pin. If you have a
retaining ring, place it on the nut and install the pin. Never reuse the
old cotter pin and make sure you use it.
Put a small blob of
grease on the inside of the dust cap and tap it into place, being
careful not to crush it. Make sure it is fully seated.That's it, you're ready to roll nice and smooth!
Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Do not lubricate the wheel bearings without first thoroughly cleaning all old grease from the bearing. Use of incompatible bearing lubricants could result in premature lubricant breakdown.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the brake drum or brake disc.
Remove the hub grease cap.
Remove the cotter pin retainer, adjusting nut and flatwasher from the rear wheel spindle. Discard the cotter pin.
Remove the outer bearing and cone assembly.
Remove the rear hub from rear wheel spindle.
Using Seal Remover (TOOL-1175-AC) or equivalent, remove and discard the oil seal.
Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly.
Clean the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the bearing cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear and other damage. If the bearing cups are worn or damaged, remove them using a Bearing Cup Puller (T77F-1102A) or equivalent.
Throughly clean old grease from the surrounding surfaces. If a new hub assembly is being installed, remove the protective coating using degreaser.
If the inner or outer bearing cups were removed, install replacement cups using Bearing Cup Replacer (T73-1202-A) or equivalent. Seat the cups properly in the hub.
If a bearing packer is not available, work as much grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Grease the cone surfaces.
Using a bearing packer, pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with a premium bearing grease.
Place inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease retainer.
Install the retainer with Hub Seal Replacer (T83T-1175-B) or equivalent. Be sure the retainer is properly seated.
Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the retainer and spindle threads.
Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly on the spindle.
Install the flat washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 18-23 ft. lbs. (24-31 Nm) while rotating the hub to set the end-play. Back off the nut and retighten to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
NOTE: After the wheel bearings have been removed or replaced or the front axle has been reassembled be sure to adjust wheel bearing preload. Refer to the Adjustment service procedure below. On the 1989–92 240SX there is just one wheel bearing, pressed into the hub and no adjusting cap. Refer to the exploded views of the Front Axle Hub Assembly. Review the complete service procedure.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the front wheels and the brake caliper assemblies.
NOTE: Brake hoses do not need to be disconnected from the brake caliper assemblies. Make sure the brake hoses are secure and do not let caliper assemblies hang unsupported from the vehicle.
Work off center hub cap by using thin tool. If necessary tap around it with a soft hammer while removing.
Pry off cotter pin and take out adjusting cap and wheel bearing lock nut.
Remove wheel hub with disc brake rotor from spindle with bearings installed. Remove the outer bearing from the hub.
Remove inner bearing and grease seal from hub using long brass drift pin or equivalent.
If it is necessary to replace the bearing outer races, drive them out of the hub with a brass drift pin and mallet.
Install the outer bearing race with a tool (KV401021S0 special tool number) until it seats in the hub flush.
NOTE: Place a large glob of grease into the palm of one hand and push the bearing through it with a sliding motion. The grease must be forced through the side of the bearing and in between each roller. Continue until the grease begins to ooze out the other side through the gaps between the rollers. The bearing must be completely packed with grease.
Pack each wheel bearing with high temperature wheel bearing grease. Pack hub and hub cap with the recommended wheel bearing grease up to shaded portions. Refer to the illustration.
Install the inner bearing and grease seal in the proper position in the hub.
Install the wheel hub with disc brake rotor to the spindle.
Install the outer wheel bearing, lock washer, wheel bearing lock nut, adjusting cap, cotter pin (always use a new cotter pin and O-ring for installation after adjustment), spread cotter pin then install the O-ring and dust cap.
Install the brake caliper assemblies and bleed brakes if necessary. Install the front wheels.
what I do is put a glob of grease in the palm of my hand and push bearing down in to grease untill you see the grease come out of the bearing or you can go to your local parts store and get a bearing grease packer. also wipe spindal with a genorus glob and put grease in between bearing in rotor. To get to the bearings all you need to do is remove tire, center cap (outter grease seal) the silver cap in the center. the cotter pin, Nut, washer outter bearing then the rotor will slip off inner bearing is in rotor still being held in by inner grease seal take seal off replace with new one pack your bearings and reverse removal procedure when retightening nut do not make tight just snug the go another turn if you go to tight you will burn your bearings real fast.