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Confused. #3 in the diagrams is 10 amp dome light. Are you talking about the starter relay fuse that powers the solenoid? That circuit has a red wire from the ignition switch to the fuse. After the fuse, the wire is black/red to the start relay. After the relay, the wire is brown to the starter solenoid.
It goes to the A/C controller. The line runs from the engine to inside the wiring harness, then to the controller. See where it normally lays and open the harness. If you can find the other end, splice it back together with a rubber hose. If you don't. I run a new hose. Sometime I have to drill a hole threw the fire wall to get on the inside. Tape the hose up good going threw the drilled hose. You don't want it to cut threw the hose. I add silicone to keep it from vibrating.
If you use too large a fuse, the wiring can catch on fire, and the whole car could burn up. You'll need an auto electrician to trace that problem. You can remove any bulb and unplug any device that is on the Acc(essories?) circuit; then see if a fuse will stay; start replacing items till you blow the fuse. It seems like a dead short which can surely melt wires if you keep taking chances. good luck.
Hello! Just because you changed an engine does not mean that something unrelated hasn't occurred... In the fuse box is the 10A fuse in the far left row...Third fuse down?....If it is that is the ECM ignition Fuse...Tracing from the ignition switch it is a Pink wire that goes to a 3A in-line fuse and changes color to Purple/White then on to the ECM...When the fuse blows is there battery on the Pink wire?...If not...Pull the blown fuse...Disconnect the main Battery terminal...Set multimeter to the X 10 scale...Place one lead on each side of the pulled fuse socket and the other lead to bare metal ground...Does either side read resistance to ground?...If it does turn the ignition key from off...To ACC,.. to start and finally hold on run...Does the ground go away in any of those positions? if it does I would suspect one of the ignition switch wires is touching ground...Hard to find...But if you alligator clip the meter in place and wiggle the ignition wires you may see it come and go...Indicating where you are moving the harness the bare wire is pinched to ground... However...If the movement of the key does not produce a change...Remove the fuse box...Flip it over... identify the wire on the fuse that blows and trace it with meter in-place wiggling as you move through the harness until you find the bare spot touching ground...
An easier softer way is to identify the color of the wire that connects to the ECM IGN FUSE...It will be Red, or Purple/White and go to the ignition switch...Cut it on both ends and run a wire of the same gauge from point to point...Guru...Saailer
Is this fuse 11--10 amp under hood fuse block?
If so, I'd unplug your ignition module. With dis ignition, the coil pack sits on ignition module. The end of ignition module that has two electrical connectors, one is a two wire connector, wire colors pink and black, disconnect it, see if fuse still blows? If it still blows and we're talking about the same fuse, at least you know what isn't causing it to blow. I'm trying to make sure we're on the same page about the fuse, according to my wiring diagram?
The short is inside the trans, but you will need to take the pan off and trace each wire to find out where the short actually is. You have narrowed it down pretty well. One way to really narrow it down before you take the trans out is to unplug the connector and put battery power to the PINK wire cavity. Now take a jumper wire with a 10 amp fuse and touch each wire until the fuse blows. The TAN/BLACK is the Torque Converter Clutch solenoid. BROWN is the 2/3 shift solenoid. Lt. Green is Shift Solenoid "A" and YELLOW/BLACK is Shift Solenoid "B". Those 4 solenoids are powered by the Trans Fuse.
The ECM1 fuse blowing usually indicates that the fuel pump wires shorted inside the tank. If you drop the tank and remove the module, you will probably find the insulation burned off the gray pump wire.