Question about 1999 Volvo S70

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I need to replace the crankshaft poistion sensor

I know i need to replace the crankshaft poistion sensor. i found on-line parts at a fraction of the cost quoted to me by a dealer. is this a job i can do by myself? where is the crankshaft position sensor and how easy is it to access and change out? Thanks!

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  1. (An afterthought) Loosen crankshaft pulley bolt. See step 8-9.
  2. Remove battery and battery tray.
  3. Remove front engine strut brace and bracket. (These two steps aren't necessary, but they make the job SO much easier. By taking these off you wouldn't believe how much more room it makes in your engine compartment.)
  4. Unplug the two connections to the DIS module and then remove the intake manifold resonance chamber connector. Just loosen the 4 screws on the hose clamps and take the two bolts on the top side of the connector out and you should be able to 'wiggle' the connector out of the rubber fittings.
  5. Remove the two serpentine belts. To do this you will need to loosen the tension on each belt. To relieve the tension you need to loosen the tensioner pulley bolt (there are two, one for each belt) and then you will need to use the allen head screw that is at the top of each tensioner assembly to loosen the belt. This may sound confusing without looking at the car, but, the belt for the air conditioning and air pump will tighten by the pulley moving down. The belt for the P.S. pump will tighten with the pulley moving up. However, in Ford's wisdom (and I do applaud them for this, once I figured it out) they set up the threads on the allen screws such that your normal loosening of a screw will loosen each belt, and tightening each screw will tighten each belt.
  6. You may want to remove the pulley for the P.S. pump belt and the whole tensioner assembly for the A.C. belt just to make more room for yourself to get at the timing cover bolts.
  7. Remove the upper timing cover. At this point, you should see a wire (actually 4 wires inside of the black plastic sheath) running down the block behind where the timing cover was. This is the crankshaft position sensor wiring harness. Follow these up and unplug the two connectors at the top of the engine. One is a single wire connector that is a ground for noise insulation and the other is the signal connector. After unplugging these, snake the wire down behind the timing belt.
  8. Remove passenger's side front wheel and wheel well cover. The wheel well cover can be a pain but with the proper tugging and bending you should be able to pop it out. This will give all you doorjamb waxers a whole new place to clean, especially considering how much SAND poured onto the ground when I removed mine. Removing these gives you a ton of room to get to the things at the lower part of the engine.
  9. Remove crankshaft pulley. This is probably the tougher part of the job. You will need a harmonic balancer puller or steering wheel puller to get this off once you get the crankshaft pulley bolt off. To get the crankshaft pulley bolt off you will more likely than not want to use the starter. I have a 1/2" air impact wrench that couldn't budge the bolt even with my 6 HP compressor (11 CFM at 90 PSI). If you have a big 3/4" impact wrench you might be able to get it off but it is awfully easy to use the starter. Just place the socket wrench (I used a 1/2" 19 mm deep socket) and rest the handle of the wrench on the frame rail to the front of the car (in front of the pulley, that is). Then just bump the starter and I mean just BUMP. It really takes no more than a tap... you will hear a loud clunk as the slack in the wrench is taken up by the slamming of the wrench into the frame rail and then Viola! the nut will be nice and loose. NOTE: You may want to do this first, before removing the battery. After this bolt is off, just use the puller with 2.5" long M8 hex head screws and take the pulley off.
  10. Remove the lower timing cover off. When doing this, note the location of the different length screws.
  11. Now you should clearly see the sensor. You can remove these two screws (They seemed pretty tight to me) and then remove the sensor and wiring. One of the most difficult parts was removing the wire from the 'snap fit' in the middle timing cover assembly. The Chilton's manual suggested to remove the middle cover, but you can't do this without remove one bolt on the P.S. belt tensioner assembly that was a real PITA to get to so I just dealt with it in place. To get the wire out just pull at it and wiggle it until it pops out. IT is tough, though.
  12. If you can't remove the sensor (the screws are out but the sensor won't come out) then the sensor is 'stuck' in one of the vanes on the vane 'ring' that is on the crankshaft. The Chiltons manual says to turn the crank by hand - HA! Yeah, right, and I can bench press 800 pounds too. What I found was real easy for turning the motor was to place the lug wrench in between two lugs on the passenger's side hub and then put the car in fifth gear and turn the driver's side wheel (assuming the whole front end is off the ground). Of course this won't work if you have an automatic so you may have to put the crank pulley back on and use leverage in between the two removal bolts to turn the crank. Just make sure you turn it the right direction and have extra removal bolts as spares since you will probably bend them.
Now, the sensor is out. Here are some installation tips:
  • After installing the new sensor, you need to adjust the gap between one vane and the sensor. To do this, you will have to rotate the crank after the new sensor is in so that there is a vane in place, so to speak and then measure this gap. The gap should be 0.8mm / 0.03 inch.
  • To install the crank pulley, I used a small piece of a 2"x4" and a hammer to tap the pulley in far enough that I could just use the crank pulley bolt to pull it in the rest of the way. I had bought an M14 bolt to use for this task but the threads are NOT M14. I'm not quite sure why they use a standard thread or worse, a rare M13 bolt, but I didn't bother to measure it. It is not preferred to tap the pulley on due to the thrust loads on the crank bearings, but people have been doing it for decades with seemingly no ill effects.
  • Installing the wire of the sensor back into the 'snap fit' that I referred to earlier was a BIG PITA. What I found worked the best is to apply a little grease to the rubber housing (you'll see what I mean if you ever take one out) and then snap it in with the male end of a 1/4" socket extension.
  • Other than this everything is the reverse of the removal steps. Make sure you tighten the serpentine belts properly upon reinstallation. Now would also be a good time to change them if they look old or worn.
  • The above steps are identical to what you need if you are changing the timing belts or the water pump (except for a few extra steps at the end).
After doing this once, I suspect I could probably do the whole job in less than 3 hours if I had everything in front of me and didn't dilly-dally (as I normally do when I'm not rushing to finish). Also, I think I only cursed once - that must be a new record for me when working on my car!

Posted on Jun 28, 2009


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Crankshaft Position Sensor location

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Where is the crankshaft sensor on a 2002 jeep liberty

Crank sensor is on passenger side, bottom rear of engine block just before bellhousing. Accesible BUT Removal may be difficult if it is the original - corrosion and hardening of the o-ring on the plastic sensor body freeze it in place. This is a $20 part that can cost thousands to replace! This is a job that should go to a dealer - before the car is rendered inoperable . The sensor may break off at the block. It has a magnet on the end that sits a fraction of an inch away from a steel timing wheel mounted on the crankshaft. Don't waste a lot of time trying to extract it in one piece - you cannot. I doubt that a dealer would guarantee a low flat rate price on this job - it could take 10 minutes, or ten hours.

If it breaks as mine did - Now you need a tow too! Get a piece of 1/4 steel rod , hold it with a vise grip and heat it red hot with a torch. This will be like a drill. Press it into the plastic ( it melts ) as deep as you can and make a couple of holes this way. Now break up the plastic part with a punch and bent needle nose pliers so that the metal sensor is loose enough to pull out . Careful - we do not want the large magnet metal part to fall into the engine now that it can wiggle past the timing wheel on the crankshaft! Then we have to lower the oil pan to fish it out. You do not have to remove the pan unless you want to - but the clearance needed to do that requires lifting the engine. Which the dealer may charge you for if you need to tow the car in.

Crank sensor is above oil pan , rear , passenger side. Plastic part breaks easily.

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Cost replace crankshaft position sensor

First you need to have the sensor component tested

You do not replace parts based on any codes

If your driving the car now, it isn't likely bad

If it needs replacing you can do that yourself,you don't
need to always pay a shop for the easy jobs,just the

Any cost related questions, you ask the shop that is taking your
money,not someone a world away on the internet

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I have a Chevy K1500 with a 5.7L and it started having rough start problems recently. Now when I crank it over it is super rough and "kicks back" and won't start. I tried replacing the crankshaft...

From the information I could gather, you will have to have a dealer reset the sensor. You might call Auto Zone auto parts store and see if they can do it, since they will scan your computer for free. Their scanner may have the capability to reset the sensor.

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Fan belt tensioner is malfunctioning . Is it a dealer part or can I buy and replace

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Srs light is on

Weak power from alternator.

Use a volt meter and check for the voltage.

It should be 13.8V to 14.2V


Here's a quick check list for most common cost of SRS / Air bag problem.

Dirty contacts on driver and passenger seat belt buckles

Dirty contacts on seat belt connectors (under seats)

Dirty contacts on driver and passenger sides weight sensors (under seat)

Seat covers

Weight on passenger seat
(Example: grocery package trigger SRS / Air Bag light on the way home.)

I recommend you to pass an vacuum over the contacts and use CRC electronic parts cleaner to rule out connectivity problem.

I DO NOT recommend disconnecting the negative battery connector to clean the code(s).

Without the code(s) the dealer will takes "BILLABLE" time to reproduce the problem.


Please rate my answer if it is useful to you.



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What did the dealer say?

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Just as we were told by the Tech at NTB (where we thought it was a battery problem) that it was the Crankshaft Indicator - and it needed to be re-timed. This is what Wilkins found out (after about 3 days of waiting):
FOUND CODE: P0335 and P1372
TOTAL COST: $169.03
It was NOT an recall item.
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It seems to be operating fine - to me it still sounds like it's racing a bit, but that's the way it always felt.

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