Question about 1998 Ford Mustang
Air compressor won't turn on
IS YOUR AC COMPRESSOR DOES NOT TURN ON YOUR MAY HAVE LOW FREON. THERE IS A PRESSURE SWITCH WHICH MUST HAVE A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF PRESSURE TO ENGAGE THE COMPRESSOR CLUTCH. CHECK FREON LEVEL ON THE LOW SIDE. AUTOZONE WILL SOMETIMES DO THIS FOR YOU OR YOU CAN BUY A GAUGE FOR ABOUT 20 DOLLARS. IF YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT PRESSURE POST BACK AND I WILL WALK YOU THROUGH TESTING
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system). Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
Suggestions are - - Check the wiring to the clutch - ck for a blown fuse - ck for the press switch on the Accumulator tank (large silver tank at the firewall pass side) - Last ck for freon press. Trouble-shoot system - Try a 12vdc test light or volt/ohm meter and ck for 12volts power at the clutch, if you have no power and the a/c switch is in the on pos. in the cab. you have to ck the press switches and all related plugs and harnesses. Most likely shes low on freon.
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
SOURCE: 1996 Ford taurus 3.0 Eng.
yes there is a high and low pressure switch in the a/c circuit which is a safety switch for the system, if the a/c gas has leaked and dropped a bit of pressure this switch will prevent the compressor from activating. -------Another possibility , that can stop AC from coming on is AC clutch.If the clutch is faulty, it will not let the AC to get started.Run a wire direct to AC test it.By pass the clutch and run direct wire to Ac compressor and see if it runs.A 12 volt additional battery .get it connected and see if Ac starts running.
The high pressure switch is located on the manifold assembly that attaches to the back of the compressor:
The low pressure switch on top of the accumulator (black metal canister with 2 pipes behind pass. headlight). Jumper it with a u-shaped paper clip.The low pressure side is made up of larger diameter tubing than the high pressure side (aluminum tubing) that holds the refrigerant.
The low pressure service gauge port valve is located on the evaporator to accumulator/drier suction line.
The evaporator to accumulator/drier suction line contains low pressure refrigerant gas and is equipped with a serviceable low pressure A/C charge valve port.
Also, the low pressure side always gets cold when working properly with the a/c on. The cold low pressure side piping will develop condensation on a hot day.
Sometimes the low pressure port is located on a post that sticks up and has a blue or black cap on it, similar to schrader valve but different.
The quick connector connects to the hose found in an r134a kit that may have a 12 oz. can of r134a for bumping up the amount of freon in your system (sometimes cars leak this gas slowly through o-rings). ------------------ Click this link to view the ac pressure switch:-- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/1996-ford-taurus-30-ac-pressure-switch.html --------- This should help.thanks.Helpmech.
Posted on Jun 11, 2011
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