Question about 1989 Honda Civic

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1989 honda accord oil leeak cam/crankshaft

Can somebody tell the steps how to remove or replace the cam shaft seal front and rear,do i have to follow any appropiated teps.........

beacause its leakin motor oil from cam shaft or crankshaft it difficult to replace crankshaft seal too.. any steps i should follow....................





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  • George May 11, 2010

    Is oil leaking from Camshaft (top of engine) or Crankshaft (bottom of engine)?

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Camshaft seal must be replaced when the engine is cold. Take off valve cover and then the upper timing cover and take off the camshaft sprocket and the timing belt will come off too. Use a small screw driver to pull the old seal off and then force in the new one. Then pull back the sprocket and timing belt. If the engine is hot, the timing belt will not go back on the sprocket until the engine is totally cool down overnight. Or if you want, you can set the camshaft to TDC and take off the rocker arm assembly, take off the seal and put the new one on and reinstalled the bolts to the rocker arm assembly and then do the valve adjustment. From Sometime mechanic.

Posted on Nov 19, 2011

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Take valve cover gasket bolt out replace... An when you do the lower crank seal you have to take off oil pan.. Big job but it can be done..

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

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1 Answer

Ow to replace crank shaft seal


is it the front crankshaft seal or the rear the front you can do by removing the lower balancer replacing the seal the rear you have to pull the transmissionand flywheel to get to that seal but the one piece you may have to remove part of the oil pan

Dec 13, 2014 | 2003 Honda Accord

1 Answer

How to replace Crank Seal , Honda Accord 95, F22B2 engine


this is covered in the FSM. 95 accord.
did you google this?
http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/accord/137349-1993-f22-crank-cam-balance-shaft-seal-hell.html

are you sure its only the crank seal,????
gravity lies. as does windage effects.
is this an A/T or M/T car, the latter makes the bolt come off easy
(5th gear + brakes) the slush pump tranny NOT.
so if you read the FSM it states." it shows photo of tire off and pulley bolt view and how the body ends just above that bolt, (see it?)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the accessory drive belts.
  3. If necessary, secure the crankshaft with a flywheel holding tool.
For some engines, a special pulley holder tool is available to secure the pulley while removing and installing the bolt (refer to the illustration)."
4 Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. This bolt can be difficult to remove. Spray the bolt with penetrating oil and allow it to soak overnight. Book forgets to see CCW direction on bolt (RHT)
the bolt will take about 200fl/lbs of reverse torque to get off.
5 Carefully remove the pulley from the crankshaft. Do not pry it off.
6:
Remove the key from the crankshaft sprocket. Be sure not to lose it.
7 -If necessary, remove the tool holding the crankshaft.

remove seal with seal puller or screw trick ,etc.
do not damage the seal base collar of the housing. DO NOT.

is this your first engine seal work>?
or done many , just need help with one honda.?
if doing all work on a honda, did you ever consider a real FSM?
why not get one, and read it, and all the steps and warnings.
worst case.
if you work engines, you know as you go , you see
Omg, it not the crank it the cam leaking, or just a bad valve cover.
fate happens, distributor seal leak too.

with all FWD, doing a crank seal can be easy or hard.
no access panels in finder
or on some cars, 7ton pressed on pulley, (Dodge neons/ yuk)

bolt spec:
1994-95 Accord and Prelude-181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)

if the 90,000 mile timing belt is ignored, you will bend the head valves over, or worse... so...... all this , is a consideration.

Feb 25, 2014 | 1995 Honda Accord

4 Answers

Oil leak on driveway coming from front of engine


Dear Sir,
Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique

Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.

  • The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
  • External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
  • Engine oil leaks at the distributor can be misdiagnosed as leaks from theintake manifold seal, oil pan gasket, or rear crankshaft (rear main) seal. A revised distributor is available if oil is found inside the distributor.
  • If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, theoil pump should be replaced.
  • Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
  • Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.

  • I think it helps to analyse u r Problem

    Nov 02, 2012 | Toyota Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    How to replace cam shaft sensor


    Assuming you have the 2.3 L 4 cylinder engine, the CYP sensor [Honda does not call it a camshaft sensor] is located in the distributor. It also has 2 crankshaft sensors, located down at the front of the crankshaft. You need to remove the timing belt covers to access those.
    FYI, P1259 is a VTEC system [variable valve timing] malfunction code. First step would be to change the engine oil and filter. Dirty oil can cause the VTEC solenoid to stick.

    Dec 31, 2011 | 2002 Honda Accord

    2 Answers

    How hard is it change front and rear oil seals?


    By front and rear oil seals, I am assuming that you are refering to the CRANKSHAFT front and rear oil seals.
    The front crankshaft oil seal is under all the components that must be removed to replace the timing belt.
    The standard labor time to replace this seal is 4.0 hours for the 4 cylinder and 4.8 hours for the V-6.

    The rear crankshaft oil seal requires removal of the transaxle to replace it.
    The standard labor time required to do this is 7.3 hours

    This is not a job for a novice unless you want to purchace a service manual and spend a lot of time reading the instructions before jumping into it.

    Dec 01, 2010 | 1995 Honda Accord

    1 Answer

    My balance shaft belt broke while I was driving. It stripped some of the teeth off the timing belt and Im pretty sure it jumped time. I need a diagram to show the timing marks and how to get it back in...


    see diagrams from autozone.com. Cam sprocket has an "UP" label, but also 2 scribes on the sides to align to upper head surface. The critical part of the job is keeping tension on the side of the belt that is opposite from the tensioner as the tensioner is released onto the belt. The timing marks must be aligned when the job is done.

    2bd7a51.jpg
    4256a1c.gif To install:

    1. Install the camshaft timing sprocket so that the UP mark is up and the TDC marks are parallel to the cylinder head gasket surface. Install the key and tighten the bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
    2. Install the crankshaft sprocket so that the TDC mark aligns with the pointer on the oil pump. Install the spacers with their concave surfaces facing in. Install the key. If equipped, install the TDC sensor assembly back into position before installing the timing belt.
    3. Install and tension the timing belt. Use a 6 x 1.0 mm x 25 mm bolt threaded through the cam belt tensioner plate to temporarily hold the tensioner.
    4. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley and rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 5-6 turns to be sure the belt is properly seated.
    5. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC for its compression stroke.



    WARNING If any binding is felt when adjusting the timing belt tension by turning the crankshaft, STOP turning the engine, because the pistons may be hitting the valves.

    1. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise so that the camshaft pulley moves only 3 teeth beyond its TDC mark.
    2. Loosen, then retighten the temporary cam belt tensioner bolt.
    3. If the rear balance shaft sprocket/gear case assembly was removed, perform the following:
      1. If the rear balance shaft was moved, rotate the balance shaft until the 6 x 1.0mm x 100 mm bolt can be installed into the maintenance hole to the scribed line.
      2. Align the notch of the balance shaft sprocket edge with the pointer on the gear case. Install the rear balance shaft sprocket/gear case assembly using a new O-ring coated with fresh engine oil. The balance shaft sprocket should be installed in the TDC position. The pointer on the gear should align with the pointer on the oil pump housing plate.
      3. Tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

    4. If the front balance shaft sprocket was removed, perform the following:
      1. Install a suitable and sturdy screw driver or drift through the maintenance hole in the shaft behind the sprocket to hold the front balance shaft.
      2. Install the front balance shaft sprocket and mounting nut. Torque the nut to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).

    5. Make sure the balance shafts and crankshaft are in the TDC position.
    6. Remove the crankshaft pulley, and if removed, install the balance shaft belt drive sprocket.
    7. Install the balance shaft belt, making sure the balance shafts and sprockets are still in the TDC position.
    8. If removed, install the balance shaft belt tensioner and tension the balance shaft belt.
    9. Loosen, then retighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
    10. Remove the 6 x 1.0mm x 100mm rear balance shaft holding bolt.
    11. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley and rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions counterclockwise, stopping at TDC.



    WARNING If any resistance is felt, stop immediately and determine the cause.

    1. Recheck that all of the TDC marks align for both the camshaft and balance shafts.
    2. Loosen, then retighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
    3. Remove the 6 x 1.0 mm x 25 mm bolt used to secure the camshaft timing belt tensioner.
    4. Remove the crankshaft pulley and install the lower cover.
    5. Install the crankshaft pulley, lubricate the bolt threads and both sides of the crankshaft pulley bolt with fresh engine oil and tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm). Do Not use an impact wrench.
    See Figures 19 and 20


    087aa27.gif

                Fig. Fig. 19: Holding the rear timing balancer shaft-4-cylinder Odyssey



              811a2fe.gif

              Fig. Fig. 20: Aligning the front timing balancer shaft-4-cylinder Odyssey

              1. Install the upper timing cover and the valve cover. Be sure the seals are properly seated.
              2. Install the side engine mount. Tighten the through-bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). Tighten the mount nut and bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) each.
              3. Remove the floor jack.
              4. Install and tension the alternator belt.
              5. Install the power steering pump and tension its belt.
              6. Install the splash shields.
              7. Reconnect the positive and negative battery cables. Enter the radio security code.
              8. Check engine operation.

              Sep 20, 2010 | Honda Odyssey Cars & Trucks

              1 Answer

              How to replace Honda front Crankshaft Seal


              Have to take off the crankshaft pulley to get at the Crankshaft Seal.

              Use a hooked seal remover to dig in and pull the seal out without damaging sealing surfaces.

              Jul 20, 2010 | 1995 Honda Accord

              1 Answer

              I have a 1989 honda accord dx with a oil pan gasket leak and a rear main seal leak, in order to fix the rear main seal leak, does the oil pan and the oil pan gasket need to be removed and does the gasket...


              they don't use gaskets on oil sumps its sealant glue and yes u will have to reapply it when you put the sump back on, and what do u mean by main seal? do you mean the head gasket?

              Nov 18, 2009 | 1989 Honda Accord 4 Door

              1 Answer

              Crank shaft movement


              did you check the pulley on the crank shaft ??
              is it warped ?? ( bent )
              because i do not think that the truck will run with the crankshaft moving.....back and forth.
              so in any case you have a lot of work to do.
              here is how to remove the crank shaft.
              REMOVAL
              1. Remove the oil pan.
              2. Remove the oil pump from the rear main bearing cap.
              3. Remove the vibration damper.
              4. Remove the timing chain cover.
              5. Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove bearing caps and bearings one at a time.
              6. Lift the crankshaft out of the block.
              7. Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seals.
              8. Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil seal.
              INSTALLATION
              1. Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine oil.
              2. Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
              3. Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
              4. Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine oil.
              5. Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
                1. Apply 5 mm (0.20 inch) drop of Loctite 518, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT over apply sealant or allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assemble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after sealant application.
                2. lb align the bearing cap, use cap slot, alignment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap more than 2 times for proper engagement.
                3. Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately tighten to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
                4. Install oil pump.
                5. Install the timing chain cover.
                6. Install the vibration damper.
                  1. Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing. Apply enough sealant until a small amount is squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess sealant off the oil pan seal groove.
                  2. Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
                  3. Immediately install the oil Dan.
              if you have an email address i can send some images

              Jun 07, 2008 | 1998 Dodge Dakota

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