Question about 2000 GMC Jimmy

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The tires on my 2000 Gmc Jimmy have gotten very choppy in that they pretty much have the sawtooth-wear-pattern (not side-wall to side-wall but in the rolling direction of the tire) predominantly on the outside edges of every tire. The tires make an outlandishly annoying noise and vibration throughout the normal speed range, 0-70mph, while being a lot noisier when turning (maybe more noise/vibration when turning one particular way, but to me it's so annoying and loud that I have no patience/desire to determine which direction causes me more pain). The problem seemed to have gotten very bad after having replaced the right wheel hub and having had a wheel alignment both at the same time and at about 7k miles ago (the left side hub was replaced several months before that). Note that I say it got very bad at about this point because before then, this car always had some slight vibration going on at about 65-70mph (which by the way, no one, including dealers, was able to pinpoint what was causing this slight vibration). But, back to the near past: I first felt/heard this annoying road noise (not the slight vibration I just mentioned) maybe about 12k or so miles ago and that's when I had the the first wheel hub (the left side) replaced - because the dealer said the noise and stuff i feel/hear is coming from the left hub. In all, after having had two wheel hubs replaced, a wheel aligment, and 2 tire rotations (one at the time the 2nd hub was replaced and one about 4k miles later) all within about 7k miles or so, the noise/vibration seems to be getting worse. I've been told that it was probably caused by not maintaining the (steering of the) car: can I possibly force the dealer to do what "I" say even though he tells me the car is fine (implying no wheel alignment needed?) or tells me we didn't rotate the tires as you asked because we think it doesn't need it?!?!?!? The bottom line is that the noise/vibration is very bad and I have also noticed the car skipping around on wet surfaces - not a good thing. I am concerned that replacing the tires alone is at best a short-term fix and that even the new tires may become choppy in maybe 5k or so miles because we have not yet found the "root cause"; I would clearly not be a happy camper. Why would the saw-tooth pattern not level itself out by this point after considering the work done? How is it possible that the noise/vibration is getting progressively worse as I progress? Do you think that maybe some other part is only marginally worn that's causing this problem (maybe the dealers, thankfully, just don't want to swap out a part that's only marginally worn)? Do you think the shocks (struts?) are worn enough to cause this pain but not worn enough for a professional to suggest replacing them? What do you suggest? The car has about 150k miles on it and all 4 tires were replaced about 75k miles ago; and yes, they still have a somewhat significant amount of tread left on them. If you need more info just ask, and you shall receive. D.

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First of all, the biggest problem I see is taking a vehicle to a dealership that no longer has a factory warranty! Can you say PRICE RAPED? Dealerships never do what you ask of them because of turn over. The more cars they get done in a day the more they make. So, if you tell them to rotate tires, and they don't want to spend the time...they won't. Second, if you are wearing tires on the OUTSIDE edges or your tires, that is usually a sign of UNDER-inflation. I have had the same Bridgestone Dueler AT's for 6 years because I ran them at 40 p.s.i. instead of the factory reccomended 35p.s.i. This pushes the center of the tire out, forcing it to wear more evenly. I would ask friends and family if they have or know of an independent mechanic that they trust and know. Usually these guys actually know more than a dealership because they are not working on just one Brand of car or truck. Also, they will make you aware of engineering and manufacturer problems that dealership don't want you to now about until waranty is over. I.E. My catalytic converters on my '97 Explorer. I found out that they were having problems with thr driver side front one plugging prematurely. Well, if you got a code BEFORE 80,000 miles they would warranty it out. Parts and labor! But, 80,001 and up, you were on your own. But there was no letters sent or notices. I even asked the Service people at my local dealership and they claimed to know nothing about it. If the problem is fixed with hubs I would be surpised. Could be wheel bearings, also have ALL of your wheels rebalanced at the tire store you purchased them from and let them know about your problems. Sometimes place that deal with tires, alignments etc. have more experience trouble shooting these types of probblems.

Hope this helped,

Scott V

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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150,000 miles, your going to catch up with my 1996 jimmy at 425,000 miles and still going up. The chipping in the front end is the front end has settled down from the torsion bars getting old and need to be readjusted, (Re-tourqued) and the front wheels aligned. The shock's has an average life of around 80,000 miles, if you are going to replace them, buy a good set with life time replacements like from Parts Source. The other thing too that i found is the ball joints have a large play tolerance so not greasing them every 3,000 mile with the oil change will cause them to move around more. Also the drive shaft U joint may be giving you the vibration if there also getting to the end of there life. As for the tire, check to make sure you have the right tire pressure. Go by the tire pressure at the door sticker first then go up as needed to the listing on the tire. The listing on the tire is just there to let you know the max tire PSI that the tire should have and the one on the door is the one that the jimmy should have for a comfort ride. Recap: the jimmy has a large tolerance to play in the parts, like ball joints, keep the ball joints, steering components well greased, and replace any worn parts with life time replacement parts so you only pay for the labor. As for the tires keep an eye on the tire pressure and make sure it's close as possible to the door sticker, the jimmy skip's on wet pavement indicates to me that the tire pressure is to high for the suspension design for the jimmy and work shocks. Keep in touch be glad to help and answer any question,s on what your going to expect in the future with your jimmy, I may have done it. LOL

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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It is not alignment, because that causes consistant wear.
It has to be something uneven, unbalanced, or loose, that is going to get worse, because it is making the tire uneven and amplifying the problem. Any good alignment shop is better thant the dealer, and should be able to fix it.
It is most likely something like ball joint or tie rod end. Could not be balance if rotating did not help.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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SOURCE: can i install 7k transmission to 4k engine??ty

I do not understand your question ?
What exactly are you asking here?
If you can install a transmission with 7 thousand miles on an engine with 4 thousands miles or what ?

Posted on May 23, 2009

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