I just put a 4'' lift on my 1977 cj5. So I added the extended brake lines. I went to bleed the lines and found the front drivers side was leaking. I replaced the hard line to the extended line...still leaks. Thought maybe it was a bad extended line...still leaks. How do I find where the leak is? How do I fix it?
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Although many people believe that the order makes a difference in their particular vehicle, there are many others who service many different makes and models of vehicles and generally conclude that the order makes no difference.
"I have investigated this brake bleeding sequence controversy and went interviewing professional mechanics from Porsche, Mercedes Benz, Toyota, Volkswagen etc. including from Pep Boys just to get to the bottom of the story. If you use the pressure or vacuum bleeding or the manual pedal method correctly, the sequence does not matter.
So I built a test rig using clear and transparent brake lines with 4 different color brake fluids. Whether you start from the farthest or the nearest brake caliper, the brake system could be bled correctly without compromising safety. This is a myth (RR, LR, FR, FL sequence) that has been accepted by most people.
What I found out was that people who use the farthest method sequence have not tried other sequences because they believe it is the only way to do it. While others who used random bleeding succesfully know sequence is not mandatory."
I'm a "random bleeder" myself, and have never had a problem. I simply proceed either clockwise or anti-clockwise around the car, for simplicity.
Since the fluid ran out, you'll have to manually bench bleed the master cylinder. Then try bleeding each wheel. If that doesn't work, you'll have to take it to a shop for a scan tool ABS auto bleed procedure.
Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ? It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only. Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?
Engine should be off and pump brake about 4 times to release pressure, then bleed,driver side rear,passenger side rear,passenger side front,then driver's side front,use a bleeder kit.If pressure won't hold and you have drum brakes,remove both rear hubs and check wheel cylinders for leakage.Check flexable fuel lines at wheels and it could be a bad brake master cylinder.
Check the rear wheel cylinders? Was anything leaking at the master cylinder? Does it have ABS?
Check the front caliper slides are free. Check the front caliper pistons for leaks as well. This is all assuming you bled the brakes(all 4 wheels) properly after all that replacement! You're getting air from somewhere for sure or if it has ABS, the pump may have a problem.
start at the passenger rear tire, have someone PUMP up brakes and hold pressure on them, release pressure by locating small bleeder screw, loosen screw 1/4 turn, brake fluid/air should come out, after brake petal reaches floor tighten bleeder, repeat process until only brake fluid comes out. go to driver side rear repeat, go to pass. side front repeat, go to driver side front repeat, after each bleeding make sure you check brake fluid in reservoir.
The hose is only maybe 15- 20 bucks depending on if its a 2wd or 4wd. I don't know what a brake shop will charge. They will just have to bleed all brakes and replace 1 line. a 4 wheel brake bleed is usually around 40 - 50 bucks, plus the labor to change the hose. This happens when stupid retarded brake guys change the pads and let your calipers hang by the hose. Thats the most common reason. However if one side is cracking bad and leaking, then it would be best to replace both sides and check the rear distribution block hose.