318v8 Ram - Drove through water now the belt squeeks...
Intense rain on mountainous city streets creates small rivers that fully submerge the far lanes on both sides of the road.“CARS” in no way could drive in these far lanes.I drive a 95 Dodge Ram 318ci V8 so of course I felt OBLIGATED to leave the dry lanes for the cars and drive in the gutter (The spray of water that went above the top of my truck cab had nothing to do with my decision).I was courteous about it though; I checked often to make sure other cars were well beyond “spray distance”. Anywho, check engine light came on so I exited the “river” and the light immediately went off.However, my serpentine belt (I assume) began to squeel.The noise increases with the throttle and almost dies off at idle speeds.I left it be, figuring it was simply a wet belt and that it would dry off and be silenced.Nope.It’s been long enough (24 hours or so) to dry but the squeel remains.Oh, and as much as I love trucks and engines… I must admit I am perfectly ignorant under the hood.Do I tighten the belt to probably fix this?If so do I just pull the alternator out farther and tighten the bolts to hold it down or is there an actual pulley on my truck that I must find to do this job?Or am I just hosed and have to actually spend money on something?
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Re: 318v8 Ram - Drove through water now the belt...
Well this truck has a spring loaded tensioner. There's nothing you can adjust. I'd check the battery to make sure it's at full charge. If it is then something is binding,like the a/c compressor or something causing the problem.
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You can probably find a Manual online for that feature. What you will have after choosing Navigation versus Entertainment is 2 tabs in the upper right of the screen. One is Dest (destination) and the other Menu. The Dest will get you a screen which allows you to enter your City or State, then City. Everything is then presented by street, address number and so forth. Some screens allow for Zip code instead of typing the City.
The Menu tab allows setting choices on what type of roads you travel. You can also select notifications of Hazards, avoiding Toll roads or Ferries. You can set volume and even voice types.
Is this by chance a former police vehicle? Many of them came with rack and pinion steering, or power assisted rack and pinion. This steering set up is very reactive. Just a thought.
Has there been any work done on the front end (i.e. Pitman Arm, Idler Arm)? If so it would have been aligned and maybe it wasn't done properly. Ford sets the toe for slight toe-out. You want it to have slight toe-in. Caster should be equal on both sides, and set to positive (at least +5-+6*). My car tends to drift towards the curb on graded roads and I think its partially due to my caster setting being out of whack. What you described sounds like excessive toe-out, where if you start a turn, it has intense initial OVERsteer. If you have toe-in, you will get initial understeer and it won't be as twitchy. I would take it in for an alignment. If it was just aligned I would raise Cain about it. It should never have left the shop without being road tested. Good luck
Well, what you do, is go down the road, there will be a man named Jeff, he's on the street that's exactly 5.1 kilometers from your home, make sure you go only down the road you are located on, then Jeff will give you a map, this map leads to a treasure that you have never even imagined!!! You follow the map to a far away desert, where you will dig a hole big enough to fit your Isuzu in. don't think I'm telling you to drive your car into it, far from it, but here you will see a brochure, on this brochure is a list of all the nearby mechanics that can, for free, tell you how much fluid to put in your car, and for a little money, can put it in for you and send you on your merry way to drive your NEWLY FULL OF TRANS FLUID ISUZU RODEO!!!
One thing you can do is to drill a small hole into the very bottom where the water is its deepest. Don't make it too big. About 1/16" is good and it will allow it to drain out without riuning the bulbs. Silicone will not work due to the intense heat of the bulbs.
you could try replacing the shock absorbers, use a stiffer/firmer shock. ( check out "bilstein" shocks). inspect the sway bars, look at the rubber mounts, make sure they are still in good condition. Or maybe install a aftermarket sway bar. also see if you can adjust the ride height of the suspension. I can adjust the ride height on my 89 Mark VII. up or down.
I just had this exact problem. Wouldn't start or took 15 trys to start, but then ran smoothly. Sometimes a little rough starting on dry days, but pretty much hard starting after rain. I was thinking water in my tank/bad gas, but shooting some starter fluid in my intake didn't give me the initial blast at start up... that certainly indicated that it was electrical...
...but the next day the vehicle stalled in the middle lane of a three lane street, wouldn't restart. After pushing it to the curb, I got to the point where I was checking the wire from the coil to the distributor cap. Two thirds of the wire lifted right out. This wire was in 2 pieces! Amazing that it had been running at all, with this one wire burned down to a whisper, before it broke completely. There were signs of heat/elec damage to the wire also at a point an inch away on this wire.
Replacing the wires is absolutely the first thing to try. It's cheap and easy to do, and it should be done (or the wires inspected/tested) routinely anyway. The coil-to-distributor coil gets more engine heat and more use than any of the indiv spark plug wires and hence wears much faster.
I am betting this wire is much more likely your problem than a coil failure. Good Luck!