- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The general route of coolant will be the engine block, the heater core in/near the dashboard, the radiator, and, often, a coolant overflow reservoir that buffers you from leaks if your coolant gets extra hot or bubbly.
So, along with the heater hoses, there are the radiator hoses, either end. Hose connections to the block. Hose to wherever your coolant check/refill container is. The drain plug at the bottom of the radiator.
There is one other place that coolant can go, though you gotta hope this isn't it. If your head gasket is on it's last legs, coolant can start leaking into your cylinder head. This can show up overtly as white smoke, not so smooth running, or mysterious random moments where a hose suddenly bursts or pops loose. Or it can just be an occasional pinhole leak that's hard to detect.
One of the biggest tells - park the car on a flat smooth surface overnight after you've driven it a while. When you come out the next day, is there coolant on the ground anywhere. if yes, the location can help you track it. if no, then exit through the cylinder head may be the culprit. You'd want to run a compression check to make sure, and then contemplate whether fixing it is worth it on a twelve year old car.
Im not quite sure what bypassing heater coil has to do with aircon leak, unless you mean there's coolant leaking from under dash, if coolant is leaking, remove hoses at firewall and follow them back to engine, you can use one of them to bridge from one to the other. Or put a connector between the hoses
You will want to taste the leak (or get someone else to do so) and make sure it is not water. Antifreeze has a very sweet taste. You should only need one drop, and be sure to rinse your mouth out really well afterwards. Whenever a radiator is replaced, the hoses attached to it can also begin to leak, because the rubber hardens with age, and can be harder to seal again. I prefer a stainless steel band clamp, not the original equipment. A good flashlight would be a help as you look for the problem. Be sure to check the heater hoses, and the other hoses that carry coolant, as any of them could be leaking, due to "being disturbed" or due to the possible higher pressure the new radiator is giving the cooling system. Be blessed.
You will have to locate the source of the leak where the fluid is spraying from. Hopefully it's something as simple as the hoses either having cracks in them or the hose clamps are not secure enough to prevent leakage. Replace with new.
If is coming from the block maybe a freeze plug has worked loose or rusted out and can be replaced. Sometimes pretty tight quarters and not much space to work.
If its coming from under the head area you might have to replace the head gasket. It's quite a prject if you are not familiar or don't have the tools or workspace. You may want to have a local shop give you a few quotes. If it's a head gasket I would have an automotive machine shop plane the old gasket off and grind the valves and redo the guides while it's off.
WELL YOU NEED TO DRAIN COOLANT LEVEL BELOW THERMOSTAT LEVEL.YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT MAF SENSOR LOOSEN AIRDUCT 2 LARGE CLAMPS LOOSEN REMOVE 4 SCREWS TO AIR FILTER COVER LIFT UP REMOVE COVER. THEN REMOVE AIR FILTER AND HOUSING, FIRST DISCONNECT MAF SENSOR.YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT THROTTLE CABLE AND SHIFT CABLE.YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT REMOVE THROTTLE BODY COOLANT HOSES DISCONNECT IDLE SPEED CONTROL VALVE CONNECTOR AND DISCONNECT TPS SENSOR CONNECTOR. THEN REMOVE THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY. YOU NEED TO BUY NEW THROTTLE BODY COOLANT HOSES AND NEW THROTTLE BODY GASKET FOLLOW TOP COOLANT HOSE TO ENGINE BLOCK.NOW YOU SEE CAN AND REMOVE THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT.BESURE TO HAVE EXTRA COOLANT ON HAND.BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM WHEN DONE.TO BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM REMOVE RADIATOR CAP ON OVERFLOW JUG.THEN OPEN BLEED SCREW ON THE WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE PIPE JUST A LITTLE.POUR COOLANT IN THE OVERFLOW JUG UNTIL LEVEL STOP DROPPING.STOP AT COLD MARK ON JUG.CLOSE BLEEDER SCREW ON WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE PIPE.CRANK VECHICLE CHECK FOR LEAKS. START UP ENGINE LET IDLE FEW MINUTES THEN CHECK COOLANT LEVEL ADD MORE UNTIL UNTIL LEVEL STOP DROPPING.PUT RADIATOR CAP BACK ON OVERFLOW RESERVOIR. LET ENGINE IDLE WATCH COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE.WHEN GAUGE START CLIMBING. TURN OFF ENGINE WAIT FEW MINUTES TAKE A LARGE RAG OPEN RADIATOR JUST A LITTLE YOU HEAR HISS NOISE.WHEN PRESSURE STABILIZE DONT GET SCALDED BECAREFUL.OPEN CAP LITTLE MORE.IF COOLANT PRESSURE STILL BOILS OUT WAIT 20 MINUTES ADD MORE COOLANT TO RADIATOR OVER FLOW WHEN COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING.PUT RADIATOR CAP BACK ON START VECHICLE UP LET IDLE UNTIL THERMOSTAT OPEN. THEN FEEL TOP RADIATOR HOSE FEELS HOT THERMOSTAT OPEN WATCH TEMPERATURE GAUGE.IF GAUGE TEMP START CLIMBING TURN OFF ENGINE WAIT A WHILE.CHECK AND ADD MORE COOLANT.WHEN THE ENGINE CAN IDLE TEMP GAUGE STOP CLIMBING YOU HAVE BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.KEEP CHECK ON COOLANT LEVEL.
First, I would like to mention that most knock sensor codes are not caused by the knock sensors, but a mechanical problem with the engine. The knock sensors cannot differentiate between noises caused by mechanical problems like a bad pulley bearing, bad motor mount, noisy alternator bearings, etc. and spark knock. knock sensor codes are set when the computer has retarded the timing as far as possible to compensate for ignition ping (Spark Knock) and the noise still exists.
With that said, here are the instructions.
Remove the Intake Chamber assembly. Disconnect Injector connectors. Disconnect the heater hose from the Intake Manifold. Remove the 9 bolts. 2 nuts, 2 plate washers and Intake Manifold assembly. Remove right hand engine mounting stay and water outlet.
Disconnect the following hoses and connectors: Radiator inlet hose. Engine coolant reservoir hose. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor connector. Engine Coolant Temperature Switch connector. Ground strap connector.
Remove the 3 bolts and right hand mounting stay. Remove the wire band. Disconnect the water bypass hose from the inlet housing. Remove the 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 2 plate washers and water outlet. Remove the 2 gaskets. Disconnect the Knock Sensor connectors. Remove the Knock Sensors.