Question about 1997 GMC Suburban

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#2 cylinder misfire

Upon start up I get a p1345 code. after running for a few minutes it pops a p0302 code. #2 cylinder misfire.how do I solve this problem...changed plug ,,,wire and cap.. rearranged engine wiring away from coil and dist. helps for a couople minutes then codes are back...sometimes even get a hi ignition voltage code too

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  • GMC Master
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This is also causing your miss also
GMC Forum: P1345 Camshaft to Crankshaft correlation faulty
Originally Posted by piecesholden@hotmail.com
I hooked my 1997 sierra up to a OBD Scanner and it reads that i have a P1345 code which is a camshaft to crankshaft correlation fault. Could it be a bad sensor or is it automatically my timing change that needs to be replaced? You are correct, the ECM has detected the timing from the crankshaft and camshaft is off to far to set off the DTC code P1345. It's more common for distributor gear to be worn then your timming chain. If your timming chain is stretched, you can hear it rattleing under hard acceleration.

The 1996 and newer Vortec is a non adjustable timing. There is a very good chance that replacing cam position or crankshaft position sensor will not fix this problem. This code tells you that the base timing of the vehicle is not correct. You really need to get the vehicle scanned with a scantool that will read the cam retard with the engine running over 1200 rpms and then make adjustments by turning the distributor, unless it is timing chain/gear stretch/wear or wear on the distributor gear. You could mark the current distributor orientation and turn the distributor counterclockwise, clear the code and start the vehicle and rev over 1200 rpm to see if it comes back, but the scan tool that can read the cam retard is the best way.

FYI The cam position sensor is in the distributor and the crankshaft position sensor is mounted to the bottom of the motor near the balancer. But i would look in to repalceing the worm gear at the bottom of the distributor shaft, the 97 and 98s, Vortec engine is that the gears were soft and they would actualy wear enough to through off the timing and you could try to adjust the timing but at some point you'll run out of adjustment. Also, the real big problem is that the gear is also hooked to the oil pump and at 75 or so, it may strat to mis-fire and backfire because the timing is so far off and the oil pump is also run off the same gear and your oil pump can fail.

This is a common problem with that vintage of GM distributors because you could usually adjust the timing enough to get the code to go away but you are just masking the real problem. Friend is a GM certified Tech, worked at an Olds dealer for 10 years before opening his own place, but he had never herd of this as being common. He then proceeded to show me a box with about 25 to 30 gears all worn the same way and all from 96 thruogh 99s that had SES lights on. And now with a $40 part and less than two hours labor and ten minutes on a scanner all these 100K mile trucks run fine and can pass E-Test.

Good luck and you really need a Tech2 scanner to get a better picture on why your getting a P1345 DTC code, but most likely it's going to be a $40.00 distributor gear.

Posted on Dec 08, 2017

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SOURCE: GMC Sierra 2002 4.3 V6 P1345

intake gasket i had the same problem with my truck

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SOURCE: 02 GMC Sierra 4.3 V6 P1345

Well that sounds like a tough one , But here is a site worth checking out . Several mechanics use this it to help out people like your self that are frustrated and are getting P #$%$# off ! Good luck

http://www.obd-codes.com/forums/search.php?search_id=active_topics

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SOURCE: 2005 Jimmy 4X4, 4.3L, P300 multiple misfire. Have

Try some injector cleaner in the fuel--there might be some water in the fuel also. Check the air cleaner.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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Is it misfiring on just one cylinder (code 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 etc.) or multiple/random (code 0300) cylinders?
It takes all 4 ingredients to fire a cylinder - Air, Fuel, Spark, and Timing. If you only have one misfire code (P0302 - Cylinder #2 Misfire), it should be a relatively easy diagnosis and fix. Let's start with Spark. I'm going to assume you have a code reader. First, remove the spark plug in #2 cylinder. Examine the threaded end. Is it wet and/or smell like fuel? If so, chances are the misfire is caused by a weak/absent spark. To confirm, swap it with a known good cylinder - example #3 cylinder. Clear the code. Start it and let it run for a couple of minutes. If a code appears with P0303 (the last digit refers to cylinder number), then you have found the culprit - bad spark plug. If the code reappeared with P0302 (Cylinder #2 again), then swap out the spark plug wire (both ends). Clear the code. Start and run for a couple of minutes. Again, if it appears on Cylinder #3 - the plug wire is the culprit. If the P0302 code comes back, swap the coil. See where this is going?
Now, when you first pulled the plug from Cylinder #2, if it wasn't wet or smelled of fuel, chances are Spark is not the issue. Was the plug dry and/or ashy? Possible cause is no fuel reaching the combustion chamber (cylinder). Using an automotive stethoscope, listen to the fuel injector for cylinder #2 while the motor is running. Should hear a regular and rhythmic ticking sound. Like a fast clock. (Use a long handled screwdriver touching one end to your ear and the other to the top of the injector if you dont have a stethoscope). No clicking or irregular clicking means fuel injector is not working (no sound) or is not working properly. Like searching for the Spark problem, swap the injector in #2 cylinder with #3. Clear code. Start and run. If the problem moved to #3, ithat injector is the culprit. If it stayed on #2, it is likely your wiring to that injector - check the whole harness for loose connections or swelled with oil wires/connectors. Keep pecking away at the fuel delivery system for that cylinder. Stay looking for things that affect only that cylinder.
When you pulled the plug, was it fairly normal looking? Then this misfire code might only be a timing problem. It is likely not a timing problem in your case, because timing affects all cylinders, but I thought I would just mention it since Timing is an important part of combustion. Also, if timing were a culprit here, another code would usually appear signifying the Camshaft Positon Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor was/is failed, or it is possible for the timing belt/chain to skip a knurl on a sproket and throw the timing off, but like I said, it would almost always cause multiple/random (Code P0300) misfires.
And finally, when you pulled the plug earlier, if it was an oily sticky mess, then the culprit might be Air - or compression/lack of compression. Lets hope not, because when Air is the cause of a misfire, it is usually an expensive fix. Need to perform a compression test. If you have little or no compression in the cylinder, it is likely a bad head gasket or a stuck/sticky/broken/chipped valve (exhaust or intake). Any of these things are bad news and expensive to fix in a shop. Also bad news and time consuming and difficult task for a shade tree mechanic.
Now, clear that code and get started! Good luck!

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The #1 cylinder is the one closest to the radiator. Number 2 is just behind #1. It takes all 4 ingredients to fire a cylinder - Air, Fuel, Spark, and Timing. If you only have one misfire code (P0302 - Cylinder #2 Misfire), it should be a relatively easy diagnosis and fix. You mentioned changing the coil, so let's start with Spark. I'm going to assume you have a code reader. First, remove the spark plug in #2 cylinder. Examine the threaded end. Is it wet and/or smell like fuel? If so, chances are the misfire is caused by a weak/absent spark. To confirm, swap it with a known good cylinder - example #3 cylinder. Clear the code. Start it and let it run for a couple of minutes. If a code appears with P0303 (the last digit refers to cylinder number), then you have found the culprit - bad spark plug. If the code reappeared with P0302 (Cylinder #2 again), then swap out the spark plug wire (both ends). Clear the code. Start and run for a couple of minutes. Again, if it appears on Cylinder #3 - the plug wire is the culprit. If the P0302 code comes back, swap the coil. See where this is going?

Now, when you first pulled the plug from Cylinder #2, if it wasn't wet or smelled of fuel, chances are Spark is not the issue. Was the plug dry and/or ashy? Possible cause is no fuel reaching the combustion chamber (cylinder). Using an automotive stethoscope, listen to the fuel injector for cylinder #2 while the motor is running. Should hear a regular and rhythmic ticking sound. Like a fast clock. (Use a long handled screwdriver touching one end to your ear and the other to the top of the injector if you dont have a stethoscope). No clicking or irregular clicking means fuel injector is not working (no sound) or is not working properly. Like searching for the Spark problem, swap the injector in #2 cylinder with #3. Clear code. Start and run. If the problem moved to #3, ithat injector is the culprit. If it stayed on #2, it is likely your wiring to that injector - check the whole harness for loose connections or swelled with oil wires/connectors. Keep pecking away at the fuel delivery system for that cylinder. Stay looking for things that affect only that cylinder.

When you pulled the plug, was it fairly normal looking? Then this misfire code might only be a timing problem. It is likely not a timing problem in your case, because timing affects all cylinders, but I thought I would just mention it since Timing is an important part of combustion. Also, if timing were a culprit here, another code would usually appear signifying the Camshaft Positon Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor was/is failed, or it is possible for the timing belt/chain to skip a knurl on a sproket and throw the timing off, but like I said, it would almost always cause multiple/random (Code P0300) misfires.

And finally, when you pulled the plug earlier, if it was an oily sticky mess, then the culprit might be Air - or compression/lack of compression. Lets hope not, because when Air is the cause of a misfire, it is usually an expensive fix. Need to perform a compression test. If you have little or no compression in the cylinder, it is likely a bad head gasket or a stuck/sticky/broken/chipped valve (exhaust or intake). Any of these things are bad news and expensive to fix in a shop. Also bad news and time consuming and difficult task for a shade tree mechanic.

Now, clear that code and get started! Good luck!



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