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If you accelerate especially when using high gears such as the 4th and 5th gear and the RPM is able to increase freely with the speed struggling to catch up with the RPM, it means your clutch is worn out and is slipping.
You need to get the clutch replaced in order for this issue to be rectified, especially if your clutch have not been changed before.
no it requires full 12 volts to work the clutch the coolant fans have no connection to the ac system so they will not run until the engine temp requires them to
there is a fan normally in front of the condenser coil that will start as soon as the ac compressor gets power
the ac will not work until there is sufficient charge in the system to activate the low pressure switch
have to ask are you using the right gas as 134A requires all new system( evaporator , condenser , compressor , hoses) as the pressures are very much higher than r12 gas
Along the condensor lines, you will find 2 ports that should have screwed on black caps, you will then remove the cap. Dependant on the year, you may need to upgrade the system R-12, vs R-134a; and recharge kits are available at various locations depending where you live. Also, the AC system is charged based on pounds, so be extra careful when attempting a new charge. Some vehicles only require 2 lbs.
Go to wal mart $6.00 a 12 oz can,may need 2 cans. Car owners manual will tell capacity in oz of AC system never charge over that amount into your system, also PSI and ounces are not the same thing
Go to auto parts store buy R-134a charging hose kit with a gage built in.$ 10.00
Turn engine OFF Under the engine hood, is a large aluminum cannister usually on passengers side ,on it or on a hose coming out of it will be a black plastic cap,with a connect fitting under, remove cap, pull and hold back the locking ring on the charging connector and push on fitting. look at gage it will show how much freon pressure is in system, with engine and ac off a higher pressure value will be on gage Start engine and turn ac on cooldest and fan high. The pressure will drop. if the pressure drops below about 22 PSI the ac compressor will stop automatic by the low pressure cut out switch.then the pressure will build above 25 and the compressor will engage again, this is short cycling(no/off) on the low pressure sensor and is a good indicator of a low charge of refigerant(R-134a). Charge according to instructions on kit. When the pressure stays above 28 and the compressor stops cycling off your good DO NOT over charge or you can cause compressor slugging. Liquid into compressor($1200.00 for new compressor)
R-134a can cause blindness. wear goggles and gloves
The "O" ring seals in the ac system dry out when the ac is not in use for over a month and leak the refigerant out again, So Use your defrost setting in the winter because it runs the ac compressor for dehumidifying, but only after the engine has warmed up a little, or with no warmth from engine the defrost will blow freezing air.
First we would need to know when this occurs.
Asuming the oil level is at the full mark!. If the pressure goes up
during acceleration and down at idle when engine is fully warmed up,
then this is normal. An engine requires 10 psi of oil pressure per
1,000 rpm ( ex. 20 psi at 2,000 rpm, 25 psi at 2,500 rpm, and so on )
. If the gauge is moving back and forth erratically at idle , i would
say the gauge is bad. If it drops to 0 while accelerating I would say
your oil pump is bad. If from time to time it seems to work and other
times it seems not to work, I would say the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge is bad.
If the pump failed you would start to here a
Knocking noise from the engine in a short period of time. Use the
above scenario's to narrow down what it may be.
Below are normal car AC pressure readings with 134A.
Normal readings on high and low side with AC OFF (static pressure) – Depends on outside temperature, but normally is between 80-105 PSI
Normal low side reading with AC on high speed and MAX & engine at 800-1000 RPM’s – Ranges from 25-35 PSI
Normal high side reading ranges from 200-350 PSI Don’t assume that if adding little Freon is good that adding a lot is better! Overcharging just a little can decrease the performance of the system and possibly damage the compressor.
With the AC on the coldest setting, use a thermometer in a middle vent. Normal vent temperature readings will vary depending on the (ambient) outside temp. The vent temperature should range from around 42-55 degrees in my experience.
If normal gauge readings are obtained and the vent air is cold – STOP don’t overcharge the system. The only proper way to remove refrigerant is with a AC recovery machine so if this is being done at home I can’t emphasize enough not to over charge the system.
The AC compressor does not have to be running to charge the AC system, and the low pressure switch will even prevent the AC compressor from operating until there is sufficient pressure to operate the AC compressor without damaging it.
Start the engine and turn on the AC, then charge the system with the R-134a and as soon as there is enough pressure built up to trip the low pressure switch off, the AC compressor clutch should then engage and then finish charging the AC system.
On a 1999 s-10, your correct refridgerant is r-134a. I don't understand why wisconsin won't allow you to purchase r-134a at a auto parts store. R-12 is the refridgerant that has been banned in the US, and requires ASE air conditioning certification to purchase. I've never heard of any law anywhere prohibiting the purchase of r-134a.
Anyway, your system is a r-134a system.
I hope this helps you, and I wish you luck on your repair.