Question about 2006 Hyundai Sonata

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4 WHEELS LOCK UP

HYUNDIA Sonata ALL 4 Brakes Lock-up I REPLACE THE MASTER CYLINDER 4 TIMES IN ONE DAY AND A BRAKE BOOSTER ...... I BLEED THEM ALL AND STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM PLEASE ADVISE ME.... I AM SO LOST....

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  • Tony Sep 01, 2012

    I seem to have same problem with brakes.Master cylinder changed twice. Dealer doesnt know whats wrong with it but whats to put on all new parts. All Calipers and pads and bleed the brakes,but not sure if thats going too work.Can anyone with this same problem help me.r

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  • Master
  • 776 Answers

ABS (HECU) MODULE. Does your ABS/ESC light come "ON"? You'll need to take it in
a Hyundai Service Center (dealership), pay the diagnostic fee. They will tell you EXACTLY what the problem is and what's needed to fix it (parts, labor, tax, time-frame, etc.). This way you will find out which parts, if any, you need to fix it - perhaps fix it yourself.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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1 Answer

Fleetwood problem


Pretty normal to not be able to lock the brakes without the assistance of the booster, it'll take a lot of pedal pressure without it. It's also normal for the pedal to feel harder without the booster, this goes for any car/truck with power brakes. Try it with any other car you have and you'll see.

I've worked on several old Cadis but don't recall what year they started using front disc. If it's been changed from drum to disc you'll likely need a different proportioning valve and possibly a different master to get them to work right. Talk to the seller and ask if the brake feel changed when they replaced the master and if they changed any other parts.

Mar 31, 2017 | 1968 Cadillac Brougham

1 Answer

The brakes on all 4 wheels lock up after a short amount of driving.The pedal gets hard and wont release until the car sits for a while or until physically releasing the pressure by cracking the break lines...


CHECK THE BRAKE BOOSTER MAY BE FAULTY
LETING BRAKES SLIGHTLY APPLIED IT HAPPEN
ON ONE OF MY PREVIOUS CAR
TO DIAG PRESS TO GET BRAKES TO LOCK UP TIGHT THEN PARTIALLY UNBOLT
MASTER FROM BOOSTER TO SEE IF BREAKS RELEASED IF THEY DID REPLACE
BOOSTER ASSEMBLY

Jun 08, 2011 | 2002 Kia Rio

1 Answer

Brakes go to the floor to stop....already replaced master cylinder and dont know symptoms of a bad hydrobooster.....i also already bleed mc and all brakes


when you replaced the master cylinder , did you bench bleed it , in order to get all of the air out it, before installing it, and afterwards, it is recommendable to bleed all 4 wheels to get the air out also. "also some of the times , when a brake booster goe's bad the brake pedal can also become spongy.

Apr 03, 2011 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I replaced the brake master cylinder on my 91 Lincoln Mark 7 with a non high pressure master cylinder and the rear brakes do not hold. Do I need to change the cal. on the rear also?


ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (and HCU-Hydraulic Control Unit)
General Information The 4-Wheel Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is an electronically operated, all wheel brake control system. Major components include the power brake booster, master cylinder, the wheel speed sensors, and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) which contains the control module, a relay, and the pressure control valves. The system is designed to ****** wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip when braking. Retarding wheel lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the wheel brake units. When the control module detects a variation in voltage across the wheel speed sensors, the ABS is activated. The control module opens and closes various valves located inside the HCU. These valves, called dump and isolation valves, modulate the hydraulic pressure to the wheels by applying and venting the pressure to the brake fluid circuits. Some models are equipped with a Traction Assist (TA) system. The TA system senses wheel spin upon acceleration, turns on the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) pump and applies fluid pressure to the appropriate rear wheel. Two additional isolation valves in the HCU will also close to permit fluid to flow only to the rear wheels. The TA system monitors TA usage to avoid overheating the rear brakes. If the system does sense brake overheating, the ABS module will inhibit TA operation until the rear brakes are permitted to cool down.
---
SYSTEM COMPONENTS The anti-lock brake system consists of the following components:
  • Vacuum booster and master cylinder assembly
  • Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
  • ABS module
  • Wheel sensors
  • Pedal travel switch
---
On 1992-1994 and 1995-00 a scanner is used to perform the brake bleed. But on yours, I think it's different according to the manual.
---
What do you mean change the cal. on the rear also? Do you mean Caliper?

Jul 26, 2010 | 1991 Lincoln Mark VII

1 Answer

Took my 93' Toyota, has 193,000 miles replaced the


THE MASTER CYLINDER NEED TO BE BLED FIRST.BEFORE PUTTING ON THE CAR.TO MANUAL BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM.YOU NEED 2 PEOPLE TO DO A BETTER JOB.YOU FIRST BLEED THE LEFT REAR RIGHT REAR LEFT FRONT AND RIGHT FRONT. WHEN YOU BLEED THE BRAKES.HAVE THE HELPER PUMP BRAKES 3 PUMPS.AND HOLD BRAKE PEDAL IN.YOU NEED A CLEAR BLEEDER HOSE IN A CLEAR BOTTLE HALF WITH CLEAN BRAKE FLUID. WITH BLEEDER HOSE ON BLEEDER SCREW AND OTHER END BLEEDER HOSE IN BOTTLE OF BRAKE FLUID.WHILE HELPER PUMP BRAKE PEDAL HOLD IT IN OPEN BLEEDER SCREW 1/4 TURN ALLOWING AIR BUBBLES LEAVE THE BRAKE SYSTEM.CLOSE THE BLEEDER SCREW BEFORE BRAKE PEDAL RELEASE.HAVE HELPER PUMP BRAKE PEDAL 3 TIMES. WITH PEDAL HELD DOWN OPEN BLEEDER SCREW GETTING AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM.WHEN YOU SEE SOLID FLUID COMING OUT OF BLEEDER HOSE THE AIR IS OUT THE BRAKE SYSTEM.DONT DRIVE CAR ON HIGHWAY IF YOU STILL CANT GET SOLID BRAKES. HAVE CAR TOWED IN TO BE PRESSURE BLEED.

Jun 19, 2010 | 1993 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.


Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

Dec 31, 2009 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Experienceing loss of power to brakes


1. What is the Brake Fluid Level?
2. Are you losing any Brake fluid at all? Are there any puddles or noticeable wetness on the ground or on the tires/wheels? With vehicle parked, the reservoir filled (overfilled), and engine running: pump the brakes and check on the ground and back sides (inside portions) of the wheels. Look for any brake fluid leaks.
3. Leaks from Calipers usually means a leak from the caliper piston. The rubber seals will be wet.
Leaks from Drums usually means a leak from the wheel cylinder.
4. In any case of leaks from the wheels - replace the calliper OR wheel cylinder.
For caliper leaks: change the brake pads, and clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
For drum leaks: clean the drum and brake hardware with brake cleaner, and replace the shoes.
5. If no leak is detected from the wheel area's: check under the Master Cylinder for wetness indicating a possible leak.
6. If no leak can be found: you MAY have a rear seal leak in the Master Cylinder which is pumping Brake Fluid into the Brake Booster (that large disk looking thing attached to the fire wall, attached to the Master Cylinder in front).
a. Use a large drip/catch pan under the Van in the area on the Master Cylinder.
b. Disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder using a flair wrench.
c. Remove the two nuts (12 or 13mm?) attaching the Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. If you have been using a lot of fluid, and have found no leaks, here is a good possibilty that all that brake fluid has collected in the Booster; so when you detach the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster, all that fluid will come rushing out!
7. If there is Brake Fluid inside the Brake Booster: there is no cleaning that out. Brake Fluid is very caustic to the seals inside the Booster and should be replaced.
8. Of course the Master Cylinder will also have to be replaced.
9. After replacing the Master Cylinder/Brake Booster - make sure you get all that spilled brake fluid off the engine compartment area parts! I use a brake cleaner, then mild soap and then water to rinse. Clean any Brake Fluid off Paint imediatley as it will quickly dissolves finishes and paint.
10. If no leak is detected and the Booster is clear, there may be problems with the Booster One-Way Valve. This is attached to the outside of the Booster and has a hose from an "advance" connected to it. This maybe malfunctioning where you are losing power. Replace this first before deciding to replace the whole booster (in cases of NON-LEAKS ONLY). If that did not work, there may be inner seals inside the Booster that have failed. That means a new Booster.
11. In any of the above cases: Make sure you bleed the Master Cylinder correctly and bleed the brakes (at each affected wheel) correctly. Any air in the brake lines will decrease your braking proficiency or could result in brake failure.

Let me know if this helped or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Dec 10, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

I think I need to replace my brake booster.


Did you bench bleed the master before you installed it???? Engine off, have someone push the brake petal down and hold it down while you crack the brake line loose at the master,then tighten it and let up on the petal.Do this several times for each of the 2 lines at the master, only cracking it when the petal is being held all the way down.Repeat...Do them separately.Have some rags below the master to mop up the mess and keep the master from running out of fluid. Then do the gravity bleed one more time on each wheel cyl. and watch for a bubble of 2.
I hope this helps you.
Yes the booster sounds fine.

Sep 22, 2009 | Chevrolet El Camino Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Replaced the brake booster how do you adjust for


Possibly the Proportioning valve. its where the lines go after the master. it has a bleeder screw of some sort on it. The pins inside wear out and stick causing uneven pressure. Replace or rebuild it if that be the case. Also chect the master for fluid leaks at the end of the piston where it connects to the booster push rod. If its leaking rebuild or replace it. 

Aug 09, 2009 | 1994 Honda Accord

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