Question about 2001 Chevrolet Silverado

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I have a 1963 Corvette with a 327 that makes a slight knocking sound for just a few seconds when you shut the engine off after it's warm. It doesn't knock at all while running and the oil pressure seems to be fine when it's running. Is this something I should worry about?

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  • Greg Bernett
    Greg Bernett May 11, 2010

    Possibly your oil pump may be for more info here.


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Turns out it was a very slight detonation...adjusting the timing worked. Strange because I had just tuned it up, I might have gotten some bad gas.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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I have a 1963 Chevy stepside with a 327 engin, after reaching running temperature, it wont start

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Hard to say over the internet but I will try to explain. If the noise is a distict KNOCK KNOCK and it sounds like it is coming from the bottom of the engine, then it most likely is a rod or main bearing. If it is a TAP TAP noise that sounds like it's coming from the top of the engine, then most likely a valve lifer is failing/failed.
the fact that it goes away when the car is warm, makes me lean towards a bad lifter. Normaly if a bearing is bad and knocking, the noise doesn't go away.

The KNOCK noise will be somewhat hollow sounding and the TAP TAP sound will be more solid. If the KNOCK KNOCK is solid, then a rod or main bearing has most likely failed to the point that a new/reman engine will be needed.

Jun 14, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Prix

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Engine is knocking needing to know anything and everything that could cause this. We just replaced the transmission a week ago and we have an O2 sensor out.

Engines can make many different noises and people will describe them as knocks, pings, rattles or thumps. A true "knock" is caused by rod or main bearings hitting against the crankshaft. The general cause of that is either too much space between the bearing and crankshaft or insufficient oil pressure to maintain the distance between the bearing and crankshaft. Sometimes you can use a heavier grade oil so that the oil doesn't leak out of the bearing space so quickly. If you're currently using 5 W 15, go to a 10 W 30 or maybe even a 15 W 50. If you can't make the noise go away with that, either the bearings are too worn or it's a different problem. If the engine has less than a couple hundred thousand miles, the only reason for bearings to go bad would be inadequate maintenance.

Other problems that can result in noises like that are:

Piston slap. That's when the skirt (lower part) of the piston is slightly worn and is enough smaller than the cylinder that the skirt "pops" from one side to the other as the engine runs. It's more of an annoyance than a real problem, especially since piston slap typically goes away as the engine warms up a little. It typically takes just a few seconds to go away. If it's piston slap don't worry about it until the engine is rebuilt. Piston slap is quite common among many of the GM 350's, especially in engines that go short distances a lot or don't get adequate maintenance.

Fuel "pinging". That's when the fuel ignites too quickly and causes a sound like something rattling around inside the engine when you step on the accellerator. Use a fuel octane booster or change the engine timing.

Hydraulic lifter noises sounds more like a tapping sound and is usually caused by inconsistent oil changes


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I can almost promis you have bad fuel injectors. it is a known issue on your car, replace the injectors with a set of bosch series II injects from fuel injector connection get a flow matched set with viton seals ... hope this helps search google for fuel injector resistance test if you want to verify the problem you can also go over the injectors with a hair drier if it changed the way the engine runs its the injectors, the build more and more resistance as they warm up... until failure

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If I remember correctly I believe that was a Duntov "0-97" flat tappet camshaft. There was also a slightly more aggressive grind hydraulic cam but I don't think either are available anymore. Best you can do and likely the most cost effective is to contact someone at crane cams or some other cam manufacturer and give them all the specifications on your vehicle and they can maker a suggestion on a specific replacement cam that will fit your needs. You can come out actually better this way because you can pick a cam that will work with your engine, gearing and anticipated use, putting the torque curve exactly where you want it..

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