Question about 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

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The steering fluid leak is making the battery and check engine lights go on. can i clean the connections

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  • Hyundai Master
  • 2,050 Answers

I would use a brake clean spray can, this will remove oil and dry well. Make sure you have good ventilation.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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Fluid leaking possibly from transmission


Several places the transmission can leak, pan gasket is most common place with cooler line fittings being next most common.Clean all the fluid off with a can of brake clean you can buy at a parts store.Make sure engine is off first and that the transmission has been topped off so as better to produce a leak.After it is clean crank and let idle on level ground for 30 minutes then shut it off and get a flash light and see if you have a leak and follow it to the source(fluid runs downhill like water)If you have no leak let it set overnight and check in the morning.Good luck!

Mar 09, 2011 | 2003 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

How to change vane pump o/h kit


FIRST OF ALL TURN OFF RADIO REMOVE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. THEN REMOVE POWER STEERING PUMP FLUID FROM POWER STEERING PUMP.USING A HAND PUMP SIPHON. BE CAREFUL DONT GET POWER STEERING FLUID ON CAR PAINT IT WILL DAMAGE PAINT JOB.PUT A DRAIN PAN UNDERNEATH CAR TO CATCH POWER STEERING FLUID THEN DISCONNECT POWER STEERING PUMP LINES.REMOVE POWER STEERING PUMP ADJUSTER BOLT AND MOUNTING BOLT.REMOVE POWER STEERING PUMP.MOST OF THE TIME NEW POWER STEERING PUMP DONT HAVE DRIVE PULLEY ON IT SO TAKE TO A MACHINE SHOP THE WILL REMOVE PULLEY FROM OLD PUMP AND PRESS ON THE PULLEY TO NEW POWER STEERING PUMP.BESURE TO BUY NEW O RINGS TO END OF PRESSURE LINE.ONCE NEW POWER STEERING PUMP HAS PULLEY IN PLACE AND YOU HAVE NEW O RING FOR HIGH PRESSURE LINE.INSTALL NEW PUMP.ADJUST BELT TENSION.NOW BLEED POWER STEERING PUMP WITH FRONT WHEELS POINT STRAIGHT A HEAD POSITION.POUR POWER STEERING FLUID IN PUMP UNTIL FLUID LEVEL ON COLD MARK ON POWER STEERING PUMP DIP STICK.KEEP ADDING FLUID UNTIL FLUID STOP DROPPING. START THE ENGINE LET IT RUN AT IDLE ADD MORE FLUID IF DROPS KEEP FLUID ON FULL COLD MARK.ON DIP STICK TURN OFF ENGINE.CHECK TO MAKE SURE POWER STEERING PUMP NOT LEAKING AT THE LINES THEN.SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT FRONT OF THE VECHICLE WITH JACK STANDS. MAKE SURE VECHICLE ON SOLID LEVEL GROUND CHECK.FLUID LEVEL MAKE SURE AT FULL COLD MARK. NOW START ENGINE.LET IDLE MINUTE.THEN TURN STEERING WHEEL ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT TO RIGHT SEVERAL TIMES WITH OUT STOPPING IT IN PLACE. CHECK POWER STEERING FLUID WHEN FLUID LEVEL STOP DROPPING.AND FLUID IS NOT A TAN COLOR WHICH MEAN LOTS OF AIR IN SYSTEM. TURN OFF CAR UNTIL AIR BUBBLES DISAPPEAR.CHECK FLUID LEVEL BLEED POWER STEERING AGAIN. DONT DRIVE VECHICLE UNTIL STEERING FEEL NORMAL.IF FLUID REMAIN TAN WITH AIR BUBBLES CHECK FOR LEAKS AT POWER STEERING PUMP PRESSURE HOSE ORING. AND CHECK POWER STEERING LINES TO PUMP FOR LEAKS.

Mar 07, 2011 | 2000 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Replacement steps for power steering pump - orginal one leaking thanks


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.4L Engine Fig. 1: Location of the power steering pump - 2.4L engine 87958079.gif
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect and cap the power steering fluid lines from the pump.
  3. Remove the mounting bolts, then remove the power steering pump. To install:
  4. Install the power steering pump.
  5. Install the pump mounting bolts and tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  6. Uncap and connect the fluid lines to the power steering pump. Tighten the line fittings to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.
  8. Fill the power steering pump with fluid and bleed the air from the system.
  9. Road test the vehicle and verify no leaks.
3.1 Engine Fig. 2: Power steering pump mounting detail - 3.1L engine 86888066.gif
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the serpentine drive belt.
  3. Unfasten the power steering pump-to-engine bolts.
  4. Pull the pump forward, then disconnect and plug the pressure tubes. NOTE: Place a rag under the pressure tubes to contain any excess power steering fluid.
  5. Remove the engine mount, and remove the pump. NOTE: To remove the engine mount, support the engine with a suitable jack by the oil pan. Make sure to use a thin piece of wood on the jack pad to disperse the weight and prevent oil pan damage. To install:
  6. Position the pump and install the engine mount. Tighten the engine support-to-mount bolts to 96 ft. lbs. (130 Nm). Tighten the engine mount-to-body bolts to 49 ft. lbs. (66 Nm) and the nut to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm), and remove the jack from the oil pan.
  7. Unplug and connect the pressure tubes.
  8. Install the serpentine drive belt.
  9. Fill the power steering pump reservoir with the proper type and amount of fluid. Bleed the power steering system.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable and check for leaks.
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Nov 20, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

What all should be replaced by 165,000 miles


Not knowing what you have done and when, below are the normal intervals for Checks and Replacements:
If you have not done something in a while, or can't remember when it was done: go ahead and do it now to keep your vehicle on schedule.

Every 250 miles: (Every Week)
Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Level.
Check Battery Electrolyte Level, Post and Connections
Check Brake Fluid Level.
Check Engine Oil Level.
Check Engine Level + Reservoir
Check Horn Function.
Check Operation(s) of ALL Lights.
Check Power Steering Fluid Level
Check Tires and Air Pressure Levels (Don't Forget the Spare)
Check Windshied Fluid Level
Every 3,000 miles: (Every 3 to 4 Months)
Change Oil and Filter.
Every 7,500 miles: (Every 6-months)
Rotate the Tires.
Check and Clean Battery
Check Cooling System Hoses & Connections for Leaks & Damage,
Check the Exhaust System.
Check the Condition of All Vacuum Hoses & Connections.
Check Wiper Blades. Replace if needed.
Check for "play" in Steering Linkages and Balljoints.
Every 9,000 miles: (Every 9-months)
Check the Brakes: Pads, Rotors, Calipers and Hoses.
Lubricate the Tie Rod Ends and Ball Joints.
Check the Drive Axles, CV Joint Boots: Inner and Outer.
Check Suspension: Coils, Struts and Shocks.
Every 15,000 miles: (Every Year)
Replace Air Filter
Change Automatic Fluid and Filter.
Check Fuel System Hoses & Lines and Connections.
Check Drivebelts/Surpentine Belts.
Every 30,000 miles: (Every 2-Years)
Drain and Replace the Engine Coolant Fluid
Flush Coolant System.
Check and Replace PVC Valve.
Replace Spark Plugs.
Replace Ignition Wires
Check Distributor/Electronic Ignition Coil.
Check Operation of ALL Seatbelts.
Check EVAP Emission System Hoses and Connections
Every 60,000 miles:
Replace Fuel Filter.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information or questions. Contact me at FixYa.com!

Mar 02, 2010 | 1995 Lexus LS 400

1 Answer

How often do I need to service a BMW 123d?


Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Here are your service intervals:

NOTE Besides Oil changes there are inspection intervals I & II

http://www.savagebmw.com/Service/content_service_Intervals.htm

Inspection interval I

BMW Inspection I (return to top) Undercarriage
  • Change engine oil and filter while engine is at normal operation temperature.
  • Check transmission for leaks.
  • Check rear axle for leaks.
  • Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
  • Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
  • Check power steering system for leaks.
  • Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
  • Examine brake disc surfaces.
  • Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
  • Grease wheel center hubs.
  • Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
  • Check front control arm bushing for wear.
  • Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
  • Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
  • Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
  • Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.
Engine Compartment
  • Read out diagnostic system
  • Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
  • Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
  • Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
  • Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
  • Check air conditioner for operation.
  • Reset Service Indicator.
Body/Electrical Equipment
  • Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
  • Perform batter load test.
  • Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
  • Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
  • Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
  • Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
  • Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
  • Check condition and function of safety belts.
  • Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
  • Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
  • Check central locking/double lock.
  • Replace microfilter or Acc. Cabin Filter.
  • Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
  • Check rear view mirrors
  • Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.
Final Inspection
  • Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission


Inspection interval II
BMW Inspection II (return to top) Undercarriage
  • Change engine oil and filter while engine is at normal operation temperature.
  • Check transmission for leaks.
  • Check rear axle for leaks.
  • Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
  • Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
  • Check power steering system for leaks.
  • Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
  • Examine brake disc surfaces.
  • Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
  • Grease wheel center hubs.
  • Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
  • Check front control arm bushing for wear.
  • Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
  • Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
  • Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
  • Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.
  • Check thickness of parking brake linings.
  • Half-shafts; check for leaks at flexible boots.
  • Inspect entire body according to terms of rust prevention limited warranty.
Engine Compartment
  • Read out diagnostic system
  • Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
  • Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
  • Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
  • Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
  • Check air conditioner for operation.
  • Reset Service Indicator.
  • Replace spark plugs (as applicable by year and model)
  • Replace intake air cleaner element.
Body/Electrical Equipment
  • Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
  • Perform batter load test.
  • Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
  • Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
  • Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
  • Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
  • Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
  • Check condition and function of safety belts.
  • Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
  • Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
  • Check central locking/double lock.
  • Replace microfilter or Acc Cabin Filter.
  • Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
  • Check rear view mirrors
  • Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.
Final Inspection
  • Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission

Service indicator lights if installed:

http://www.savagebmw.com/Service/content_service_IntervalsLED.htm

That should just about cover the works other than failures.

Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

Feb 16, 2010 | 2008 BMW 1 Series

1 Answer

Red light on, car has 164000 miles what maintenance is required


Not knowing what you have done and when below are the normal intervals for Checks and Replacements:
If you have not done something in a while, or can't remember when it was done: go ahead and do it now to keep your vehicle on schedule.

Every 250 miles: (Every Week)
Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Level.
Check Battery Electrolyte Level, Post and Cable Connections
Check Brake Fluid Level.
Check Engine Oil Level.
Check Engine Coolant Level + Reservoir
Check Horn Function.
Check Operation(s) of ALL Lights.
Check Power Steering Fluid Level
Check Tires and Air Pressure Levels (Don't Forget the Spare)
Check Windshied Fluid Level
Every 3,000 miles: (Every 3 to 4 Months)
Change Oil and Filter.
Every 7,500 miles: (Every 6-months)
Rotate the Tires.
Check and Clean Battery
Check Cooling Hoses & Connections for Leaks & Damage,
Check the Exhaust System.
Check the Condition of All Vacuum Hoses & Connections.
Check Wiper Blades. Replace if needed.
Check for "play" in Steering Linkages and Balljoints.
Every 9,000 miles: (Every 9-months)
Check the Brakes: Pads, Rotors, Calipers and Hoses.
Lubricate the Tie Rod Ends and Ball Joints.
Check the Drive Axles, CV Joint Boots: Inner and Outer.
Check Suspension: Coils, Struts and Shocks.
Every 15,000 miles: (Every Year)
Replace Air Filter
Change Automatic Fluid and Filter.
Check Fuel System Hoses & Lines and Connections.
Check Drivebelts/Surpentine Belts.
Every 30,000 miles: (Every 2-Years)
Drain and Replace the Engine Coolant Fluid
Flush Coolant System.
Check and Replace PVC Valve.
Replace Spark Plugs.
Replace Ignition Wires.
Check Distributor/Electronic Ignition Coil.
Check Operation of ALL Seatbelts.
Check EVAP Emission System Hoses and Connections
Every 60,000 miles:
Replace Fuel Filter.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information or questions. Contact me at FixYa.com!

Feb 15, 2010 | 1995 Honda Accord

1 Answer

How do I replace power steering pump on my 2003 BMW 325i ?


first Allow the engine to cool completely Make sure all connections have been tightened to the proper torque settings; power steering fluid pumps at an extremely high pressure.Apply penetrating spray to bolts, nuts, and hose connections Chock all wheels that are not raised off the ground. Don't forget to dispose of all used fluids according to local laws.
First, remove the old pump. You may need to raise your vehicle. Use a jack to do this. For added protection, place a safety stand underneath that part of the frame. (Caution: always use extreme care when jacking up your vehicle and putting it on a safety stand.)
If you are working near the battery, remove the negative battery cable. Remove any parts that might get in the way of pulling out the power steering hoses or pump. Drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir. To do this, you disconnect the feed and return lines and drain the fluid into a drain pan, or use a siphon. (You may need special "line" wrenches to loosen the lines if a regular wrench doesn't do the job.) Make sure to loosen the lines before removing the pump mounting bolts. To avoid possible combustion, take care when draining the fluid to avoid spilling it onto any belts or exhaust parts.
Remove the power steering pump bolts. On some vehicles, you can loosen the bolts by placing a socket through the holes in the pump's pulley.
You may be able to return the old pump for a core refund, so drain it completely of fluid and place it in the box from you new pump. To install the new pump, first install the pulley from the old pump onto the new pump, if necessary. Place the new pump in the proper position. If possible, attach return and feed hoses to the pump before bolting it in place. Install pump mounting bolts; torque to specification. (On V-belt models, tighten but don't torque the bolts yet
Attach and tighten feed and return hoses to pump. Double-check all connections for leaks. Reinstall any belts that were removed; adjust belt tension. Tighten V-belt style mounting bolts after you have adjusted belt tension. Reinstall other parts that were removed (shields, brackets, exhaust, etc.).
Fill system with new power steering fluid. Check for leaks. If there are none, place the lid on the reservoir. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start engine; again inspect for leaks.
You will need to "bleed" the system to remove any air. (Note: bleeding instructions vary from vehicle to vehicle. Check a repair manual.)
Raise both front wheels off of the ground. With the engine running, slowly turn the steering wheel left to right, lightly touching the steering stop points. Check fluid level. Repeat in order to remove all air. After you are satisfied all air is out of the system, lower the vehicle. Job complete

Jul 05, 2009 | 2003 BMW 325

2 Answers

Steering hard /loosing pwer at 40-55mph


Take the car in for a new serpentine belt and tensioner right away before you destroy the engine. The alternator, power steering pump and waterpump are not turning right now because the belt has come off. The battery will die soon because it is not charging, and the engine will overheat and perform it's own little rendition of the china syndrome. When the red warning lights in the dash come on, it generally means; park it unless you're being shot at.

May 20, 2009 | 1998 Ford Windstar

2 Answers

What is required in the service of a 3.0l subaru liberty at 100000kms?


your owners manual will tell you exactly. usually all filters should be changed (oil, air, auto transmission if equipped, fuel, cabin air etc) as well as spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor if equipped, check the belts and hoses as well as the charging system. All fluid levels should be checked and topped off. Check your tire p.s.i. as well.

Mar 20, 2009 | 2004 Subaru Legacy

2 Answers

Inspection light on


The green bar is the service indicator bar. The bar shoulld decrease every 1500/2000 km to indicate still how far you can drive before the next service. It will evetually change to yellow and then red. This means the service is overdue. When my 1995 318 went for a service the dealer reset the indicators to full green bars. A week later the bar was in the red. Some computers are prone to this fault due to low ore loss of battery power. Just make sure the physical km of your inspection is still maintained. BMW SERVICE RESET Take a small wire, paperclip, or elect wire and bend like a horseshoe. No light or equipment necessary Open the diagnostic data port, the one were the little pacman centre is located. Turn the ignition to position 2, don?t start. Connect pin7 always first and then pin 19. Hold for 4 seconds. Remove wire and settings will be reset. Warning if you hold the wire longer than 10 seconds you may reset inspection intervals 1 and 2. I?ve done this twice and it definitely work on my E36

Nov 29, 2008 | 1992 BMW 3 Series

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