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Sheila Hughes Posted on Jun 01, 2014

Install master cylinder on 1993 ford ranger

Master cylinder will not seperate from the brake booster

  • Sheila Hughes
    Sheila Hughes Jun 01, 2014

    nevermind got it just rust and corrsion on bottom half of master cylinder

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1 Answer

Ken B.

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  • Contributor 9 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 05, 2015
Ken B.
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Check that the master cylinder push rod is disconnected from the brake petal under the dashboard.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 11 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 04, 2008

SOURCE: 1993 Ford F-250 4X4 Brake

probably the porportioning valve stuck open common problem

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rockys performance motors

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  • Posted on Dec 14, 2008

SOURCE: Ford Bronco II spongy brake pedal

if the booster is bad the pedal would be hard sounds like the e-brake is stuck take off the drums and make sure the arms are all the way back then did you adjust the rear brakes after changing the shoes

Anonymous

  • 667 Answers
  • Posted on May 23, 2009

SOURCE: replacing my brake booster

go to the master cylinder and remove it from the booster, disconnect the vacuum line from the booster, then disconnect the brake plunger from your brake pedal inside the vehicle, then remove the booster mounting bolts from inside the vehicle then remove the booster, install in reverse order, once you install the master cylinder, you will need to bleed out any air in the brake system, hope this helps, let me know

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 18, 2009

SOURCE: 1999 Ford Taurus, replaced leaking master

There is a special tool required to bleed the brakes, it plugs into the ABS hydraulic control under the hood and holds the ABS valves open to remove the trapped air during bleeding, u will need to have the dealer bleed the brakes, they are most likely the only ones that will have this special too, but u can try an outside shop, I am sure Snap on tools makes this tool in the aftermarket tool catagory..

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Mike

  • 4383 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 06, 2010

SOURCE: 95 ford f250 powerstroke brake

You must inspect ALL Brake lines, flexible and steel, and each corner brake. Look for fluid leaks. If everything below is okay, replace the M/C. I suspect damaged cup or bore. do not rebuild, get a new one. Unlikely too much vacuum.

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2helpful
1answer

1992 FORD RANGER BRAKE PEDAL GOES TO THE FLOOR, ALL NEW BRAKES,MASTER CYLINDER, NEW BOOSTER, AND BLED THEM, STILL GOES TO THE FLOOR ?

Before you install a new master cylinder you are supposed to bench bleed it to get all the air out first then install it the bleed the wheel cylinders the farthest from the cylinder fit so it s like this /1\RR/2\LR/3\RF/4\LF IF YOU DIDN'T BENCH BLEED IT YOU MOST LIKELY BLEW THE PRIMARY SEALS IN IT BUT YOU CAN TRY TO BENCH BLEED IT TO SEE IF IT RESPONDS AND GETS VERY STIFF WHEN YOU APPLY FORCE TO THE PISTON TO PUSH IT IN WITH A BLEEDER KIT INSTALLED ////FITTINGS FOR THE CYLINDER WITH HOSES YOU SUBMERGE INTO THE BRAKE FLUID IN THE CYLINDERS FRONT AND BACK AT THE SAME TIME HELD LIGHTLY IN A VISE TO HOLD IT STEADY
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Ford ranger pedals went to floor booster was leaking changed booster and now when I tried 2 prime no fluid to back wheels and pedal sticks half way on way back up? Is my master cyl bad??

If the brake pedal sticks on the way up then i would have to say there is a problem in the master cylinder, even with other brake problems the pedal should always return,
also when installing the booster make the linkage to brake pedal and brake switch is installed correctly.
0helpful
1answer

Install power brake booster on 1988 ford ranger

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: Make sure that the booster rubber reaction disc is properly installed if the master cylinder push rod is removed or accidentally pulled out. A dislodged disc may cause excessive pedal travel and extreme operation sensitivity. The disc is black compared to the silver colored valve plunger that will be exposed after the push rod and front seal is removed. The booster unit is serviced as an assembly and must be replaced if the reaction disc cannot be properly installed and aligned, or if it cannot be located within the unit itself.

  1. Disconnect the stop lamp switch wiring to prevent running the battery down.
  2. Support the master cylinder from the underside with a prop.
  3. Remove the master cylinder-to-booster retaining nuts.
  4. Loosen the clamp that secures the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve, and remove the hose. Remove the booster check valve.
  5. Pull the master cylinder off the booster and leave it supported by the prop, far enough away to allow removal of the booster assembly.
  6. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, remove the retaining pin and slide the stop lamp switch, push rod, spacers and bushing off the brake pedal arm.
  7. From the engine compartment remove the bolts that attach the booster to the dash panel. To install:
  8. Mount the booster assembly on the engine side of the dash panel by sliding the bracket mounting bolts and valve operating rod in through the holes in the dash panel. NOTE: Make certain that the booster push rod is positioned on the correct side of the master cylinder to install onto the push pin prior to tightening the booster assembly to the dash.
  9. From inside the cab, install the booster mounting bracket-to-dash panel retaining nuts.
  10. Position the master cylinder on the booster assembly, install the retaining nuts, and remove the prop from underneath the master cylinder.
  11. Install the booster check valve. Connect the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve and secure with the clamp.
  12. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, install the bushing and position the switch on the end of the push rod. Then install the switch and rod on the pedal arm, along with spacers on each side, and secure with the retaining pin.
  13. Connect the stop lamp switch wiring.
  14. Start the engine and check brake operation.
Fig. 1: Check the booster pushrod adjustment using a gauge with the shown dimensions

tecnovative_78.gif
Fig. 2: Exploded view of the typical power brake booster tecnovative_79.gif Fig. 3: Booster vacuum hose connections - 2.3L & 2.9L

tecnovative_80.gif
Fig. 4: Booster vacuum hose connections for the 4.0L

tecnovative_81.gif
0helpful
1answer

I went to work today and the brakes were fine. then when i went to leave work the brake pedal went to the floor and i couldnt stop. so i bled the brakes from the right rear all the way around and still...

First determine if either of the wheel cylinders or calipers are leaking. Be sire to check the brake flex lines as well. If all the hydraulics are dry, look at the master cylinder where it attaches to the Brake Booster. On the bottom, below the Master Cyl, is it dry or does it look like there is some leakage? If it is wet, and all the above check out OK, then I would replace the Master Cylinder.
Be sure to bench bleed the master cylinder first, before installing on Vehicle.
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1answer

1993 ford mustang brake pedal goes down on its own and brakes

Check the vacuum brake booster and check valve maybe there is a problem there that is amplifying the vacuum inside the booster and applying the brakes. I hope this helps, let me know.
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2answers

Having trouble with the brakes on my '90 Ford ranger. Replaced the master cylinder and still have very little braking power. Any help would be appreciated!

***Seek out professional help this vehicle is not safe to operate.***


Check the vacuum line going to the brake booster.

This is the big round chamber behind the master cylinder.

Hope this tip helps.

R/
David
0helpful
1answer

Ford Ranger 1994 breaking system just stopped working. No tension on pedal and on checking no brake fluid.

2 places to check 1. look at the rear wheel backing plates for moisture 2. pull the master cylinder back and look for fluid in the vacuum booster. if leaks at the rear its going to be rear wheel cylinders which will require replacing wheel cylinders and shoes. if the vacuum booster is full replace the master and booster.
1helpful
2answers

How do i change manual to power brakes on 1988 ford ranger

Not sure exactly but I love to do stuff like this. First thing I would do is go to a salvage yard and rob the pieces form another truck with power brakes. You know you need the booster and the master cylinder, but you might also need the pedal and the pedal bracket. All the lines and the combo valve and calipers and wheel cylinders should be fine.
0helpful
1answer

Replacing my brake booster

go to the master cylinder and remove it from the booster, disconnect the vacuum line from the booster, then disconnect the brake plunger from your brake pedal inside the vehicle, then remove the booster mounting bolts from inside the vehicle then remove the booster, install in reverse order, once you install the master cylinder, you will need to bleed out any air in the brake system, hope this helps, let me know
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