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Starter hesitates to drop out after turning

Starter hesitates to drop out after turning keyswitch back to run

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Probably will have to replace starter if you bendix is sticking. Easy DIY and not too expensive...

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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Starter sluggish the battery and alternator work fine 2004 Aztec and there are no loose wires yet it hesitates one time and then the next its fine


Do a voltage drop test on starter , cables ! Check the starter relay ,PCM energizes the starter relay . Check power an the control circuit of starter relay . Videos on you tube on doing these checks . Starter Voltage Drop VEHICLE RELAYS Testing from the relay base

Jul 16, 2016 | 2004 Pontiac Aztek

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Truck starting problems


Check the power to that starter solenoid or starter relay and if ok then pull the starter and replace the solenoid on the starter.

Dec 30, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Trouble code P 0513 2003 Dodge ram 1500


This Code means incorrect immobilizer key. If this is a battery powered combination chip and remote, the Battery voltage may have dropped to change the frequency of the part.

But since it only happens at certain positions of the keyswitch there may be a problem in the keyswitch reader. I read about most problems denying a start or failing to continuing to run after starting. Your exact problem was not listed.

There are several components for this system. There may be moisture in the key or condensation from the cold. Put key in closed jar of rice to dry it out.

Plase rate my info.

Jan 23, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 97 ponitac sunfire 2.2 liter need to know how to wire the keyswitch direct so it will run


This year vehicle has an antitheft system on it. You may not be able to hotwire it. This link explains the system.

http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Nov 18, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Ok...the old keyswitch worked w/o key but it quit.(turn it to run but won't start. if it does start won't shut off.} replaced keyswitch still the same thing. it has new...


Hello, Check under the dash at the top of the Brake pedal lever. There should be a switch there and it is an Interlock switch. This switch can be hit by your feet and either knocked out of adjustment or broken. There is also another switch which ties into the system and keeps the car from starting unless it is in Park or Neutral.

When you put in the new Ignition switch, there are sometimes adjustment screws which are slotted and allow the Igntion switch to be mounted higher or lower with respect to the Keyrod or cable in the steering column.

Where you need to get power is the small (Tickler) wire on the starter solenoid. You can unplug it and test it for power when the keyswitch is turned to START.
The Interlock switches power the Tickler.

This is what you need to think about. The gearshift Interlock must be adjusted to make the Tickler work in Park or Neutral. The Brake pedal Interlock is suppose to prevent the Tickler from getting power unless your foot is on the brake. Sometimes your Brakelights will not work if the Brake Interlock is broken. Have a helper check them or Scotch-tape something across the rear window Brakelight so you can see it work from inside the car.

That is all I have for this problem.

Oct 02, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

There is no spark while cranking engine until you let go of the key at which point it fires one cylinder but does not run f-600 ford 370-4v year 1979


Hello, I would test the Ignition switch. There are contact points inside the switch and actually both the Run and Start positions on the switch put power to the coil.

If you disconnect the power wire at the coil (ignition post) you can test the wire from the Keyswitch.
Then unplug the Tickler wire on the starter Relay and the starter will not turn while you test the Keyswitch.

Hook up a testlight or voltmeter, get in the cab and turn the Keyswitch to Run and I'd bet the ignition wire is dead. If there is steady power at the ignition wire, either your coil or Module is bad.

When you turn the Key to Start, it should have power at the Ignition wire and I also bet it is dead until you get that bounce of power when you release the Key.

Feb 08, 2011 | Ford F-450 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I changed the starter, but the engine will not start. The solenoid only turns over the engine when it has the posts crossed.


IF you can start the engine by jumping a wire from the battery cable to the solenoid input, you've probably wired the starter wrong.
Some GM starters have two small connectors on the solenoid; one is an input to activate the solenoid, the other is an output to the coil. If you connect those wires wrong, the starter won't engage.
If you have the two wires that go to the solenoid for your vehicle, find a volt meter, disconnect the small wires on the starter then have a friend turn the keyswitch as though trying to start the engine. Use the volt meter to see which wire becomes activated ONLY when the keyswitch is in the "start" position. The other wire may have some voltage when the keyswitch is in the "on" position, or it may not have voltage at all.
The wire that is activated in the "start" position should go to the post that activates the solenoid when you jumper it.
Hope that helped.

Jan 30, 2011 | 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

New starter will not disengage after starting. ive tried 2 new starters so far.


On the starter relay you want to disconnect the wire from the starter to the relay. Put on a testlight and ground it or use a Voltmeter. Operate your Keyswitch and see if the power stays on when you release your Keyswitch from the start position. If the power stays on its either your Keyswitch or your Relay that is bad.

Without removing the testlight or voltmeter, if the power is still on, remove the Tickler wire from the relay. If the power goes off with the tickler wire off then it is the Keyswitch that is stuck. Your Keyswitch inside is making contact with the Start side off the switch in the Run position

If your Relay stays on, without the Tickler wire connected the Relay is bad. It is fused across the contact posts.

If there are no power issues found, take the starter out and put some Brake silicon grease and liberally do the shaft. Then jump the starter out of the truck and work the lube into the Bendix.
I also had clients with tractors doing the same thing from their rebuilder. The Bendixes were shipped dry and never lubed.

I hope my information is what you needed.

Dec 04, 2010 | 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

1989 ford bronco full size 5.8 L V8 I tried to start it... the starter didnt stop turning and kept going even when i took the key out.. wouldnt stop and went until it killed my battery


Just answered identical problem in another make of vehicle. There are 2 possibilities for your problem. A bad Keyswitch and/or a bad Starter Solenoid. I assume your Bronco did not start, which is a good thing. You could have damaged the teeth on the flywheel if the engine started.

You may need to replace the Keyswitch. It is suppose to send a signal to the "tickler" wires on the Solenoid, connecting the Battery to the Starter. Either the Keyswitch shorted and continued to power the Solenoid, or the Solenoid shorted and Welded a connection after the Keyswitch was turned OFF.

Remove the small wires to the Solenoid. If the Solenoid is welded internally, the Battery will spark when you try to connect the Battery cables and the Starter will spin. This would mean the Keyswitch may still be good, do not reattach the small wires yet.

You would need a testlight or Voltmeter to test each small "tickler" wire by attaching the testlight to a Ground and the other end to the tickler wire. When you turn the Key to Start, the light should Glow. It should not Glow all the time.

My advice is to replace both the Keyswitch and the Solenoid because of the wear they encountered with the malfunction. Then when you get the Bronco to start, go to Autozone or Oreillys for a Starter draw test to see if the Starter was damaged by your other problems. Both of those Parts stores test and scan for free.

Sep 26, 2010 | 1989 Ford Bronco

1 Answer

2003 ford taurus how does you car sound when you try to start if your solenoid is bad just had starter replaced 1 year ago I don't know if it was a new starter or not but now car won't start battery is...


If you have a test light, you should check the small "tickler" wires on the starter relay. You do not know if the start signal is getting from the keyswitch to the solenoid. With the small wire detached you should be able to use a test light or 12volt meter on this wire. When you turn the keyswitch to start, the tickler wire should have power. If it does not, the ignition switch is probably bad.

If the tickler does have power, then clean the mounting surface of the solenoid and reconnect the wire and see if it works. If the car cranks you were losing the ground. If the car still does not crank put the test light on the cable going to the starter and ground the test light or gauge.

You will know there is power to the starter if the test light or gauge shows power from this connection. This means the solenoid is good and either the starter itself is shorted or has lost its grounding. Check all connections by the starter and try again.
If no luck the starter is bad.

May 02, 2010 | 2003 Ford Taurus

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