- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This Code means incorrect immobilizer key. If this is a battery powered combination chip and remote, the Battery voltage may have dropped to change the frequency of the part.
But since it only happens at certain positions of the keyswitch there may be a problem in the keyswitch reader. I read about most problems denying a start or failing to continuing to run after starting. Your exact problem was not listed.
There are several components for this system. There may be moisture in the key or condensation from the cold. Put key in closed jar of rice to dry it out.
Hello, Check under the dash at the top of the Brake pedal lever. There should be a switch there and it is an Interlock switch. This switch can be hit by your feet and either knocked out of adjustment or broken. There is also another switch which ties into the system and keeps the car from starting unless it is in Park or Neutral.
When you put in the new Ignition switch, there are sometimes adjustment screws which are slotted and allow the Igntion switch to be mounted higher or lower with respect to the Keyrod or cable in the steering column.
Where you need to get power is the small (Tickler) wire on the starter solenoid. You can unplug it and test it for power when the keyswitch is turned to START. The Interlock switches power the Tickler.
This is what you need to think about. The gearshift Interlock must be adjusted to make the Tickler work in Park or Neutral. The Brake pedal Interlock is suppose to prevent the Tickler from getting power unless your foot is on the brake. Sometimes your Brakelights will not work if the Brake Interlock is broken. Have a helper check them or Scotch-tape something across the rear window Brakelight so you can see it work from inside the car.
Hello, I would test the Ignition switch. There are contact points inside the switch and actually both the Run and Start positions on the switch put power to the coil.
If you disconnect the power wire at the coil (ignition post) you can test the wire from the Keyswitch.
Then unplug the Tickler wire on the starter Relay and the starter will not turn while you test the Keyswitch.
Hook up a testlight or voltmeter, get in the cab and turn the Keyswitch to Run and I'd bet the ignition wire is dead. If there is steady power at the ignition wire, either your coil or Module is bad.
When you turn the Key to Start, it should have power at the Ignition wire and I also bet it is dead until you get that bounce of power when you release the Key.
IF you can start the engine by jumping a wire from the battery cable to the solenoid input, you've probably wired the starter wrong. Some GM starters have two small connectors on the solenoid; one is an input to activate the solenoid, the other is an output to the coil. If you connect those wires wrong, the starter won't engage. If you have the two wires that go to the solenoid for your vehicle, find a volt meter, disconnect the small wires on the starter then have a friend turn the keyswitch as though trying to start the engine. Use the volt meter to see which wire becomes activated ONLY when the keyswitch is in the "start" position. The other wire may have some voltage when the keyswitch is in the "on" position, or it may not have voltage at all. The wire that is activated in the "start" position should go to the post that activates the solenoid when you jumper it. Hope that helped.
On the starter relay you want to disconnect the wire from the starter to the relay. Put on a testlight and ground it or use a Voltmeter. Operate your Keyswitch and see if the power stays on when you release your Keyswitch from the start position. If the power stays on its either your Keyswitch or your Relay that is bad.
Without removing the testlight or voltmeter, if the power is still on, remove the Tickler wire from the relay. If the power goes off with the tickler wire off then it is the Keyswitch that is stuck. Your Keyswitch inside is making contact with the Start side off the switch in the Run position
If your Relay stays on, without the Tickler wire connected the Relay is bad. It is fused across the contact posts.
If there are no power issues found, take the starter out and put some Brake silicon grease and liberally do the shaft. Then jump the starter out of the truck and work the lube into the Bendix.
I also had clients with tractors doing the same thing from their rebuilder. The Bendixes were shipped dry and never lubed.
Just answered identical problem in another make of vehicle. There are 2 possibilities for your problem. A bad Keyswitch and/or a bad Starter Solenoid. I assume your Bronco did not start, which is a good thing. You could have damaged the teeth on the flywheel if the engine started.
You may need to replace the Keyswitch. It is suppose to send a signal to the "tickler" wires on the Solenoid, connecting the Battery to the Starter. Either the Keyswitch shorted and continued to power the Solenoid, or the Solenoid shorted and Welded a connection after the Keyswitch was turned OFF.
Remove the small wires to the Solenoid. If the Solenoid is welded internally, the Battery will spark when you try to connect the Battery cables and the Starter will spin. This would mean the Keyswitch may still be good, do not reattach the small wires yet.
You would need a testlight or Voltmeter to test each small "tickler" wire by attaching the testlight to a Ground and the other end to the tickler wire. When you turn the Key to Start, the light should Glow. It should not Glow all the time.
My advice is to replace both the Keyswitch and the Solenoid because of the wear they encountered with the malfunction. Then when you get the Bronco to start, go to Autozone or Oreillys for a Starter draw test to see if the Starter was damaged by your other problems. Both of those Parts stores test and scan for free.
If you have a test light, you should check the small "tickler" wires on the starter relay. You do not know if the start signal is getting from the keyswitch to the solenoid. With the small wire detached you should be able to use a test light or 12volt meter on this wire. When you turn the keyswitch to start, the tickler wire should have power. If it does not, the ignition switch is probably bad.
If the tickler does have power, then clean the mounting surface of the solenoid and reconnect the wire and see if it works. If the car cranks you were losing the ground. If the car still does not crank put the test light on the cable going to the starter and ground the test light or gauge.
You will know there is power to the starter if the test light or gauge shows power from this connection. This means the solenoid is good and either the starter itself is shorted or has lost its grounding. Check all connections by the starter and try again.
If no luck the starter is bad.