Kids and I got caught in bad storm. left hazard lights and head lamps on for appx 15 min. could not get to van due to storm, falling trees, hail and rain. same night battery light came on. battery tested bad and alt tested bad. changed both. battery light came on next day after a 10 mile drive. replaced alt again, feeling maybe had received a bad alt. so two alts later and one battery still have same problem.
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When the ignition switch is in the RUN or the START position, voltage is applied through the TURN/LPS fuse to the normally closed contacts of the hazard switch. A single flasher in the hazard switch performs the following functions:
• The turn signal operation
• The hazard flasher operation
When the turn signal switch is in the LEFT position, voltage is applied to the following components:
• The left turn indicator
• The left front park/turn lamp
• The left rear turn lamp
The lamps immediately turn on and flash as the flasher opens and closes the circuit. If a bulb is in need of replacement, the turn lamps will flash at twice the normal rate.
Without testing i would probably say the flasher is bad .
do the four ways work ?
Brake light switch? The cruise and brake lights problems are likely related. The cruise control cuts out when you press on the brakes. I had a van where the cruse wouldn't engage. Then someone pointed out my brake lights were always on. It was the switch.
does the alt light glow, keyon (aka. chargelamp)? if not BAD ! fix that FIRST ! This is really simple in most cases. it's a system, called a charge system. it has 3 /4 parts. 1: Alternator must spin about 2 times crank speed. if the engine RPM is 400 , the Alternator will give UP. so first engine RPM 800 then i strobe the alt pulley, oops belt slips, mine runs at 1.8 ratio or 1400 rpm at alt pulley. for a DIY is the belt tight? 2: is engine RPM at 800? no , fix that first. 3: RPM good. The system now is ALT wires and battery. 3 things. if the ALT is good and the battery is good (tested) then it must be what. the wires. The alt can put out 50+ amps.. there are at least 4 wires on most alts and any can fail. 1: big red. (huge charge wire,, or the inline fuse blown. 2: ground, old cars , and for sure in the SALT belt the gound fails do to RUST, or better word, Corrosion and both. alum and steel (iron) both corroded, add salt and its worses in 2 ways corrosion and electrolysis. (google that) so the ALT case must be grounded to the engine. 100% perfect then engine ground stap to battery minus. if not the ALT will FAIL. now we land on 2 more wires, most cars. that rear connector. 1 is ignition sense wire, if open alt goes nuts. 2: is the idiot lamp. if lamp is bad, (dead) the alt can shut down. this lamp creates boot up , initial excitation current, so the ALT can start up. most ALTS have no residual magetism to start up. so it needs a bias circuit, to do that. and guess what, each brand of ALT uses different parts here. EVEN REBUILTS, so best practice, is to assume the lamp must be good, and fix that first (early cars, ) new cars the ECU runs the alt and is 10x smarter, not this car. at all.
no lie , testing the alt, in car is hard. many times the ALt just shuts down. (faults) and with zero current flow, you can not find the voltage drop that precipitate that fall out/ there is a method but is risky , on car, called "full fielding" it can blow up electronics,. so that is my warning. does this help?
one other crazy failure some cars have DRL , in uSA , some, in canada , many. i fix them all. but the DRL in many cars, (this year) connects the alternator, and DRL burns up and kills the ALT. the reason DRL uses the charge lamp is easy it shuts down DRL any time the Charge lamp is dead. allowing more battery volteage (& current) to start, HEADLAMPS off. same with cruise control some drop out , if change lamp is on. to understand all this , its all in the manual. (parts effected) at alldata dot com.
Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? How to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year make ,model and engine size. Under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click on turn signals . Click the search button then the blue links .Check power an ground circuits ! This is how we diagnose electrical faults , not just replacing parts .
Voltage is applied through the TURN fuse and the turn/hazard flasher when the ignition switch is in the following positions:
• BULB TEST
The voltage travels to the contact in the hazard switch. The hazard switch is located in the turn/hazard-headlamp switch assembly. This contact is normally closed.
When the left turn signal is turned on, voltage is applied to the following components.
• The left turn indicator
• The left front park/turn lamp circuit 14
• The left rear turn lamp circuit 18
The turn lamps turn on immediately. The current flow heats up the timing element. The timing element is located in the turn/hazard flasher. The timing element repeatedly opens and closes the circuit. This action causes the turn lamps to begin flashing.
The voltage that is applied to the left front park/turn lamp is also applied to the left front marker lamp. If the headlamp switch is in the OFF position, the left front marker lamp will find a path to ground through one of the following lamps. The following lamps provide low resistance paths to ground:
• The right front marker lamp
• The right turn indicator
• The right front park/turn lamps
• The left front park/turn lamps
The left front marker lamp flashes with the turn lamps. The voltage drop across the marker lamp is much higher than the voltage drop across the other lamps. The lamps that are used for the ground path will not flash.
When the headlamp switch is in either the PARK or HEAD positions, voltage is applied through the following components:
• The EXT LP fuse
• The marker lamps
• The park lamps
When the left turn signal is turned on, the left marker lamp will have voltage at both connections. The left marker lamp does not light. When the turn/hazard flasher stops the voltage to the turn lamps, the marker lamp is grounded through the turn lamp. The marker lamp does not go on. The left front marker lamp flashes in the following manner:
• The left front marker lamp flashes on when the turn filament of the left front park/turn lamp goes off.
• The left front marker lamp flashes off when the turn filament of the left front park/turn lamp goes on.
Voltage is applied to the right lamps in the same manner, when the right turn signal is turned on.
Voltage is applied at all times through the following components to the normally open contact of the hazard switch in the turn/hazard-headlamp switch assembly:
• The STOP HAZ fuse
• The turn/hazard flasher
When the hazard switch is turned on, voltage is applied to the following components:
• The front turn lamps
• The rear turn lamps
The following lamps flash on and off:
• All of the turn lamps
• Both of the turn indicators
The front marker lamps flash with the hazard lamps on, just as the front marker lamps flash when the turn lamps are on. If the headlamp switch is in the OFF position, the front marker lamps flash on when the hazard lamps are on. The front marker lights will flash on when the hazard lamps are on if the headlamp switch is in one of the following positions:
When the hazard lamps are on, the following conditions apply:
• The turn circuit is always open.
• The turn/hazard flasher controls the lamp.
Voltage is applied through the EXT LP fuse, to the headlamp switch at all times. Voltage is applied to the park lamps and the marker lamps when the headlamp switch is in the following positions:
The front marker lamps are grounded through the turn filament of the respective front park/turn lamp. The front marker lamps light as a result.
Voltage is applied through the STOP HAZ fuse to the brake switch at all times. When the brake pedal is depressed, the brake switch closes. This action applies voltage through the turn/hazard-headlamp switch assembly to the following lamps:
• The high mounted stop lamp assembly
• The left tail/stop-turn lamps
• The right tail/stop-turn lamps
louiseme: your fuse box is on the driver's side of the car under the dash. Usually there is a cover to show what circuits go where.
However, if you do not have a cover I will do my best to orient you to the box and what fuses serve what circuits.
Your box is made up of two rows of fuses , 7 on each side.
In looking at it you will see the left row will have three 15 amp, one 25 amp, one 20 amp and 0ne 15 amp fuse.
The right side will have: five 15 amp and two 20 amp fuses.
On the right side the top 15 amp fuse is the left head light, next 15 amp fuse below it is the right head lamp. The 15 amp fuse below it is for the tail lamps and dome lamps. 15 amp below that is stop lights and horn. 15 below is hazard, 20 is door locks , 20 radio and cigar
On the left, top 15 amp is ign coil and meters, 15 below is turn signals and back ups, 15 below is wiper washer, 15 below rear defog, 25 amp below heater, 20 amp below AWAL, 15 amp below is FI. Beyond this I need more specifics about your problem to help you