Question about 1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

There is a missing component under the dash of my 1985 olds that

Prevents the air conditioning from working. What is it and where can it be found exactly?

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 314 Answers

It is either the ac clutch relay or the ac clutch fuse

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Speakers aren t working


If the guys who worked on your a/c had to work under the dash (which is necessary for some a/c components), they could have loosened a connection or damaged the speaker wire.

To check, try the following methods:

1) Remove the radio (search for instructions online), pull it out of the dash far enough to release the antenna and wiring connectors from the back (usually by pulling them straight out), then remove the stereo entirely. Then you can check the connectors and the wiring in the console for any obvious problems.

2) You didn't say which speaker quit working, but if the a/c guys had anything to do with it, it was probably one of the fronts. Check the wiring by removing any cover panels under the appropriate side of the dashboard, then sticking your head under the dash with a flashlight and looking for anything wrong with the wiring. IMPORTANT NOTE: Any time you're working under the dash, disconnect the car battery first to prevent accidental activation of the air bags.

3) Depending upon the age of the stereo, it is possible (though fairly unlikely) that one channel has gone dead. To test this while the stereo is out, you'll need to:

--provide power by running a wire from the positive terminal of the car battery to the appropriate terminal on the back of the stereo, which usually corresponds to a red wire on the connector.

--provide a ground in the same way, from either the battery's negative terminal or a known good ground point. The ground wire from the stereo is usually black (sometimes dark brown).

--provide a substitute pair of wires to the dead speaker (or any other car speaker you've got hanging around). Usually, each pair of speaker wires from the stereo is a wire of one color and another wire of the same color with a stripe (for example, purple and purple/white). Figure out those connections from the stereo, then connect the other ends of the wires to the speaker.

--turn the car key to "accessory," then turn on the stereo and see if the test speaker works. If it does, you know the problem is the wiring or connectors under the dash. If it doesn't, then the problem is the stereo itself.

--if the stereo doesn't turn on at all, it probably means that you've connected power to the "keep alive" terminal that keeps the radio's memory alive. Look instead for another brightly colored wire (often with an inline fuse, usually NOT blue), and try providing power to that terminal. Sometimes, a sticker on the stereo will show the proper electrical connections, or you could try looking online.

4) Or, you could call up the guys who worked on your a/c. First, ask them exactly what they repaired/replaced on your a/c, then ask if any of their work was under the dash. If they say yes, then tell them you think they screwed up your stereo wiring. If they admit that's possible, ask them to fix it themselves, or agree to pay the cost of a car audio installer to fix the problem, if the installer finds out it's probably their fault.

The following diagram shows a typical auto a/c system. The components usually found under the dash are shown at lower left. If the a/c guys repaired or replaced the expansion valve or anything related to the evaporator, that means they were almost certainly under the dash. (On GM vehicles, however, the expansion valve is often in the engine compartment, but the other components are similar to those shown here.)
e642d9a3-754d-499e-b726-44b7446e63bd.gif

Apr 11, 2014 | 2000 Nissan Pathfinder

1 Answer

Dash vents 1985 heat


Lots of older cars, especially ones without air conditioning, didn't use vacuum controls, but used cables and levers.
If you do have vacuum lines, will have one from engine's intake manifold going through the firewall and into the back of the control panel to a pod-like device that distributes vacuum to several controllers on the heater/AC case under the dash. Several vacuum lines exit the control panel, each goes to a small diaphragm tank or canister next to the door it operates.

Jul 17, 2013 | 1988 Oldsmobile Delta 88

1 Answer

95 jetta will start then die


Symptom Diagnosis Test 4 - Cuts-Out Or Misses Condition
Preliminary Checks
Prior to starting this symptom test routine, inspect these underhood items:


All related vacuum lines for proper routing and integrity Search for any technical service bulletins related to this symptom.
Test 4 Chart

StepActionYesNo 1Step Description Verify Cuts-out condition Start the engine and attempt to verify the Cuts-out or misses condition. Does the engine have a cuts-out condition-Check for any stored codes. If codes are set, repair codes and retest. If no codes are set, go to Step 3.Go to Step 2. 2Step Description Condition does not exist! Inspect various underhood items that could cause an intermittent Cuts-out condition (i.e., EVAP, Fuel or Ignition system components). Were any problems located in this step-Correct the problems. Do a PCM reset and "Fuel Trim Relearn" procedure. Then verify condition is repaired.The problem is not present at this time. It may be an intermittent problem. 3Step Description Check/compare PID values Connect a Scan Tool to the test connector. Turn off all accessories. Start the engine and allow it to fully warmup. Monitor all related PIDs on the Scan Tool (i.e., ECT IAC Counts and LONGFT at idle). Were all PIDs within their normal range-Go to Step 4. Note The IAC motor should be from 5-50 counts. Watch fuel trim (%) for a large shift into the negative (-) range (due to a rich condition).One or more of the PIDs are out of range when compared to "known good" values. Make repairs to the system that is out of range, then retest for the symptom. Test 4: Cuts Out or Misses Condition (Continued)
Test 4 Chart (Continued)

StepActionYesNo 4Step Description Check the Ignition System Inspect the coils for signs of spark leakage at coil towers or primary connections. Check the spark output with a spark tester. Test Ignition system with an engine analyzer. Were any faults found in the Ignition system- Make repairs as needed Go to Step 5. 5Step Description Check the Fuel System Inspect the Fuel delivery system for leaks. Test the fuel pressure, quality and volume. Test the operation of the pressure regulator. Were any faults found in the Fuel system- Make repairs as needed Go to Step 6. 6Step Description Check the Exhaust System Check Exhaust system for leaks or damage. Check the Exhaust system for a restriction using the Vacuum or Pressure Gauge Test (e.g., exhaust backpressure reading should not exceed 1.5 psi at cruise speeds). Were any faults found in Exhaust System- Make repairs to the Exhaust system. Then retest the symptom. Go to Step 7. 7Step Description Check the PCV System Inspect the PCV system components for broken parts or loose connections. Test the operation of the PCV valve. Were any faults found in the PCV system-Make repairs to the PCV system. Refer to the PCV system tests. Then retest for the condition.Go to Step 8. 8Step Description Check the EVAP System Inspect for damaged or disconnected EVAP system components Check for a saturated EVAP canister. Were any faults found in the EVAP system-Make repairs to EVAP system (use the EVAP tests in this manual). Retest for the condition.Go to Step 9. 9Step Description Check the AIR system Inspect AIR system for broken parts, leaking valves or disconnected hoses (see graphic). Test the operation of Secondary AIR system. Were any faults found in the AIR system-Make repairs as needed. Refer to the Secondary AIR system tests. Retest for the condition.Go to Step 10. 10Step Description Check Engine Condition Test the engine compression. Test valve timing and timing chain condition. Check for a worn camshaft or valve train. Check for any large intake manifold leaks. Were any faults found in the Base Engine-Make repairs as needed to the Base Engine. Refer to the Base Engine tests. Then retest for the condition when repairs are completed.Go to Step 2 and repeat the tests from the beginning to locate and repair the cause of the "Cuts Out or Misses" condition.

Nov 29, 2011 | 1995 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

The car isnt idled up much at all, it stalls and most recently have had the timing belt changed 1month ago, and an oxygen sensor 1 wk ago and it seems to be dying at all stops unless placed in neutral and...


You could either pop back to the garage that did the work and get them to quickly check if everything that was removed was replaced and fixed tight,as it could simply be a leaking hose or air duct to your engine,or maybe the plug off a sensor(although this usually triggers a check light on your dash).Or you could have a quick look under the bonnet for any loose hoses or ducting going to or from the air cleaner to engine or along the manifold that takes the air to the engines cylinder head.If you can get it to idle in park it would help you to look for any loud hissing from a air leak or bad missing from sparkplugs and leads.Sometimes putting the air conditioning on will raise the idle speed enough to prevent stalling while looking.Hope this helps,or get back to me with some more information;model,year and anything you have found while looking.

Mar 29, 2011 | Ford ZX2 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Air condition fan switch works only in postions 3 and 4.


Sometimes these resistors are located under the passenger side dash under or behind the glove box, the resistor is located on the side of the heater box if the heater box can be found.

Aug 04, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

How to Replace a Heater Core


Removal & Installation

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    CAUTION After disconnecting the negative battery cable, wait 2 minutes for the driver-s/passenger-s air bag system capacitor to discharge before attempting to do any work around the steering column or instrument
  2. On diesel models, remove the passenger side battery and battery tray.
  3. Remove the instrument panel by performing the following procedures:
    1. Remove the air bag control module (ACM) and bracket from the floor panel tunnel.
    2. Remove the trim from both cowl side inner panels.
    3. Remove the steering column-to-instrument panel opening cover.
    4. Remove the 2 hood latch release handle-to-instrument panel lower reinforcement screws and lower the handle to the floor.
    5. Disconnect the driver-s side air bag module wiring harness connector from the lower instrument panel reinforcement.
    6. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position and lock the steering wheel. Remove the steering column without disassembling it.
    7. From under the driver-s side of the instrument, disconnect or remove the following items:

      Parking brake release handle linkage rod from the parking brake mechanism located on the left cowl side inner panel. Instrument panel wiring harness connector from the parking brake switch located on the parking brake mechanism. Three wiring harness connectors (body wiring harness, headlight, dash) from the 3 junction block connector receptacles located closest to the dash panel. Head light/dash-to-instrument panel bulkhead wiring harness connector screw and disconnect the connector. Instrument panel-to-door wiring harness connector located directly below the bulkhead wiring harness connector. Infinity sound system wiring harness connector (if equipped), located at the outboard side of the instrument panel bulkhead connector. Stop light switch electrical connector. Vacuum harness connector located near the left side of the heater/air conditioning housing.
    8. Under the passenger-s side of the instrument panel, disconnect the radio antenna coaxial cable connector.
    9. Loosen both sides of the instrument panel cowl side roll-down bracket screws about 1 / 2 inch (13mm).
    10. Remove the 5 upper instrument panel-to-upper dash panel screws; remove the center screw last.
    11. Roll down the instrument panel and install a temporary hook in the center hole on top of the panel. Attach the other end to the center hole in the top of the dash panel. The opening should be approximately 18 inches (46cm).
    12. Disconnect the instrument panel-to-heater/air conditioning housing assembly wiring harness connectors.
    13. Using an assistant, remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.

  4. If equipped with air conditioning, perform the following procedure:
    1. Discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
    2. Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the evaporator. Plug the openings to prevent contamination.
    3. Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the accumulator. Plug the openings to prevent contamination.
    4. Remove the accumulator.

  5. Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse.
  6. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.
  7. Remove the PCM from the dash panel and move it aside. Do not disconnect the PCM harness connector.
  8. In the engine compartment, remove the heater/air conditioning housing assembly-to-chassis nuts.
  9. In the passenger-s compartment, remove the heater/air conditioning housing-to-dash panel nuts.
  10. Pull the heater/air conditioning housing assembly rearward far enough to clear the studs and air conditioning drain tube holes.
  11. Remove the heater/air conditioning housing assembly from the vehicle.
  12. Remove the upper-to-lower heater/air conditioning housing screws and remove the upper housing.
  13. Remove the heater core from the lower housing.


    Fig. View of the heater/air conditioning housing assembly


    0900c15280225dc3.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. View of the heater core

Apr 07, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Ram

1 Answer

GM 2.8 Liter Engine ECM/Coil will produce spark


does a 85 have a ECU unit ??? sounds like it could be the switching transistor thats either under the coil or inside the distributor should look like a black plastic casing with 3/4 wires running to it then to the coil look at this first as often motor runs ,stop for a quickie somewhere and jump back in and engine will not fire up ,classic symptons

Dec 20, 2008 | 1985 Jeep Cherokee

4 Answers

Air conditioning and heating


The vacuum line on the drivers side of the intake manifold just below the throttle body fell off.

May 26, 2008 | 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Not finding what you are looking for?
1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Logo

Related Topics:

86 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Oldsmobile Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75822 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8202 Answers

Are you an Oldsmobile Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...