Question about 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora

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I have a load noise from the bottom of the engine my machanic says change piston rod bearings. want a second opinion The noise happens under 1500rpm and stops above that.

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HI, your mechanic is correct. this is the rod bearings.this will happen overtime. The presence of motor oil sludge will prevent normal oil circulation to these vital parts, in return, allowing them to ware.

It is commonly described as as excessive rod bearings clearance.

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

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Yep thats rod bearings.
Tech note save your self the headache replace all of the while you have the pan off.

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

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He is probably right, could be lifters though

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a 425 CI 7 litre Cadillac V8 in a 1979 Diamanté. Once the engine is up to temperature a rattle like noise comes into the engine under acceleration. The noise goes when the throttle is


You need to find where the noise is coming from. On the top could be lifters, valves or low octane gas causing a ping. On the bottom could only one thing. Rod knock. The bearings for the pistons and crankshaft are worn.

Jan 01, 2015 | Cadillac Cars & Trucks

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Just got an oil change on wed- fully synthetic audi a4 2006 Today ( Friday morning) got the oil pressure light and the car started making very loud noise at the same second as I got this light. What can...


I don't enjoy being the bearer of any bad news, and I truly hope that what I think happened didn't happen.
It is completely possible that when the oil change was done, either the pan plug or the oil filter were not screwed on tight. This enabled the oil to leak out of your engine, causing lack of lubrication. When the bottom of your engine stopped being lubricated it caused a spun bearing on crankshaft at piston rod bottom. This is just a guess on my part since you stated oil pressure light and loud noise. I do feel that you should call the place where oil change was done and report this problem to them. DO NOT drive the car, let them come to you to inspect or tow back to there place. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

Nov 29, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

V6 knocking noise


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bottom end knock


shells?
which engine, ?????
the main bearings, pound and make deep sound under heavy engine load. the rod bearings are LOAD RAP RAP sound, like hitting the block with a ball peen hammer.. so does no gasket on exh. flange.
why guess. there are easy tests to find cause.
and if you meant main bearings shells, that is :
1: if just shells, and no damage its 20hrs labor or more.
if crank bad, add $150 for a regrind of same and new bearings.
same for rods,


buy the FSM and read the engine overhaul section its all there.
x100.

see this page on noise the black art.
see methods , used, for engine noise.....
http://www.fixkick.com/NOISE.html


the noise can be isolsated by some tricks.

Nov 19, 2013 | 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

No power in engine, and a clanking noise from the bottom of the truck. I changed the plugs, Fuel pressure regulator, and air filter. Coils are good.


is the clanking noise connecting rod bearings,crank bearings,piston noise.is it a metallic noise you don`t say in your question.these can cause no power.what is the fuel pressure reading.need more description of noise.

Jul 30, 2011 | 2003 GMC Yukon XL

1 Answer

My 2004 trailbazer makes a knocking noise whan started, it gets quieter as ou drive it, but does not go away


Hello
Any knocking noise is more than likely due to worn connecting rod bearings, Crankshaft main bearings or piston or piston pin noise. Connecting rod bearing knocks and piston related noise quite some with warm up, piston noise tends to go completely away after about 5 minutes of run time, but there are exceptions to that run like a cracked piston skirt, crankshaft bearings don't quite very much. It would be my best quests without hearing the noise that you may have either a connecting rod or piston related noise. The best thing to do here is have a trained ear listen to the noise, any experienced technician will know very quickly what the noise is and where it is coming from. These types of noises are only common on high miles engines, with at least 100,000 miles on them is the general run or the engine has been run very low on oil repeated times, or the oil not changed at regular intervals or the engine has been severely overheated. My experience? 35 years as a dealer technican. I'm Master certified in all phases of auto and light truck repair.

Jul 03, 2011 | 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

My 96 chrysler lhs has a knocking/rattleing sound coming from the bottom engine and as you push down on the gas the faster you drive the louder it rattles


if the noise is coming from the bottom end of the motor then you have either bad connecting rod bearings or bad crank bearings.if when you snap the throttle you hear a double knock then its connecting rod bearing if not then its crank bearing.a collapsed piston can sound low in the engine and its usually a dull knock noise.if you have the engine running and the noise is there and you pull off one plug wire at a time(and reconnect it after checking) and the noise goes away or mostly goes away with the wire unhooked then the cylinder that the noise changed is the cylinder that has a bad piston.

May 25, 2011 | Chrysler LHS Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Last night after coming off the interstate i made a sort of hard left then went to accellerate. Thats when i noticed a dramatic loss of initial power and loud engine noise. The engine noise persisted...


sorry....you have spun a rod bearing the engine nose is the piston hitting the bottom of the cylinder head, because the rod bearing has spun and have stacked on top of each other, sounds like you are going to need an engine, but the good news is there a lot of used ones out there, check with your local salvage yard.

Mar 30, 2011 | 1999 Toyota Corolla

3 Answers

4.3 vortec engine , engine noise, knocking or tapping on top of engine, not when cold , but starts noise when it heats up, and gets louder as it gets hotter and hotter!!! Sounds like noise is in the center...


The knocking or ticking is going to determine if it is in the top end, lifters, push-rod or rocker arm issue or the bottom end that would include pistons or bearings.
If it is a ticking noise, it will more than likely be a valve train issue.
If a knocking noise, piston or crankshaft related problem.

Attached is a web site that you can listen to a piston slap which is a known issue for your 4.3.
Listen to the noise and see if it sounds similar to your problem. A piston slap will generally sound as though it is coming from the central area of the engine.
Listen to the recording and let me know.
Regards,

Apr 19, 2009 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

1999 jeep Grand cherokee


If you have a connecting rod problem, likely it is not the rod itself that has failed, rather, the crankshaft bearing on that rod or the wristpin. Usually though when either has failed, the knocking is an all the time thing, varying with engine rpm. A good tech can usually tell the difference between the two just by listening. A beraing failure is generally also accompanied by a drop in engine oil pressure as well. not so for a wristpin. An intermittent noise (tapping) can also indicate a valve lifter problem... though a lifter can also make noise during a low oil pressure situation. Lifter noise is heard from the top of the engine, both other noises are from underneath.
I would first have a different shop give you a second opinion. If it turns out to be a rod bearing, generally this damages the crankshaft and also sends bearing material throughout the entire engine. To properly repair would require complete teardown and rebuild, or replacement of engine. This does not hold true for lifter or wristpin problems, unless severe, though either can be expensive, even if you do the job yourself..
How long is your powertrain warranty?
Definitely get a second opinion before doing anything else!

Jan 14, 2009 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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