Hesitation when pusing on the gas
Sounds like the dealership/technician is just guessing. I would try a couple of things. First with the car in neutral or park, engine running, floor the accelerator. Does it rev up just fine or does it bog down? If it bogs down you have an engine related problem. If it revs up normally, turn the steering wheel all the way one way or the other (it dosen't matter which way), and floor the accelerator, the engine should rev up like before but the RPM won't be as high (a couple hundred less). If it dosen't rev up and it bogs down your engine has a issue with it when under a load. If it revs up fine, put a chock or block of wood in front of and behind both drive tires. Try lightly driveing forward, you just want to make sure the chock/block will actually keep the car from going forward. If it holds, put the car in drive set the park brake (as tight as it will go), hold down on the brake pedal as hard as you can and floor the accelerator. What this is called is a torque converter stall test. It tests whether your clutchs in the transmission are slipping, if you have an issue with the torque converter, or if there is an engine issue. Hold the accelerator to the floor for no longer then ten seconds, after you let go put the car in neutral and let it run there for about two minutes. Doing a stall test causes the transmission oil to become hot fast and you want to let it cool down. Again the engine should rev up just a couple hundred RPM's less then when the engine was in neutral and steer wheel straight ahead. If the RPMs are the same as when the engine was in neutral, steer wheel staight ahead, either your clutchs are slipping or your torque converter isn't transferring the power from the engine to the transmission. If the RPM's are much lower then when the engine was in neutral and steer wheel straight ahead either you have a engine problem or a torque converter problem. If the tests listed before (engine in neutral and steer wheel turned one way) were satisfactory then it would most likely be a torque converter problem. Now then after all said and done there won't be much you can with out an expansive scanner, pressure test tools and so on. And then all the tools required to make the repairs. My reccomedation would be to take it into a repair shop that specializes in transmission repair. This way you know the technician working on it is experenced in transmission diagnostics and repair. I wouldn't take it into a dealership because I feel there labor rates are too high. Also I wouldn't take it to a general repair facility because it may be a mechanic who dosen't understand transmissions working on it and just guessing like the dealership. Even though dealerships say they have factory trained technicians dosen't mean each technician has had training on every part of the car. My guess is that a inexperenced tech worked on it and either didn't fully understand the problem or didn't want to ask for help. Anyway, I hope this cleared up the confushion (and didn't make it worse). Good luck, and by the way when you do take it in and they tell you whats wrong with ask them to show you whats wrong with it either by test results or visually show you. This won't be offensive to them (and if it is I wouldn't have them work on my car), I actually enjoy when a customer wants to be shown whats wrong with there car because one, I like to have them fully understand the problem so that they have complete confidence in me and also because I like to demonstrate my skills as a technician.
Mar 24, 2009 |
1993 Subaru Legacy